People say that the Flinders Ranges are up there with the most iconic places in South Australia. And they are quite right – this is a truely marvellous place. You are constantly surrounded by majestic mountains; and in all the creeks and watercourses – all dry when we were there – the majestic river red gums stand proud. We did some lovely walks, but the highlight was the drive around and through the Park – the gorges are quite wonderful.
We went to the Flinders Ranges NP between 13 and the 16 April 2019.
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting There
Nuriootpa > Clare > Wilmington > Wilpena ~ 467kms.
History
First Nations people have been living in the Flinders Ranges for tens of thousands of years. Adnyamathanha, meaning ‘hills‘ or ‘rock people‘, is a term now used to describe the Kuyani, Wailpi, Yadliaura, Pilatapa and Pangkala, the traditional First Nations groups in the Flinders Ranges. These four language groups are now collectively referred to as the Adnyamathanha, although some descendants of these groups identify with and maintain their original affiliations.
Sharing a common identity based on the Yura Muda, culture and language of their descendants, all understanding is derived from the land. The Yura Muda is passed on in the form of creation stories from generation to generation in a long held oral tradition.
You can read more about the Adnyamathanha First Nations people here.
The first European explorers were an exploration party from Matthew Flinders’ seagoing visit to upper Spencer Gulf aboard HMS Investigator. They climbed Mount Brown in March 1802. In the winter of 1839 Edward John Eyre, with five men, two drays and ten horses, further explored the region in.
There are records of squatters in the Quorn district as early as 1845, and the first pastoral leases were granted in 1851. William Pinkerton was the first European to find a route through the Flinders Ranges via Pichi Richi Pass. In 1853 he drove 7,000 sheep along the eastern plains of the range to where Quorn would be built 25 years later (Pinkerton Creek runs through the Quorn township). In 1851 Wilpena, Arkaba and Aroona were established as sheep stations, and within a few years other runs were marked out through the hills and along the adjoining eastern and western slopes. In 1852 Kanyaka Station was established.
During the late 1870s the push to open agricultural land for wheat had met with unusual success, with good rainfall and crops in the Ranges. At the same time copper was mined in the Hawker-Flinders Ranges area, from the late 1850s, and transported overland by bullock dray. These two drivers induced the government to build a narrow gauge railway line north of Port Augusta through Pichi Richi Pass, Quorn, Hawker and along the west of the ranges to Marree, to service the agricultural and pastoral industries.
However, rainfall returned to a normal pattern for the region, causing many agricultural farms to collapse. Remnants of abandoned homes can still be seen dotted around the arid landscape. Wilpena Station, due to its unusual geography, along with areas around Quorn and Carrieton, remained the only places in the area to sustain any crops. Wilpena was later left to the wild and became a tourist location.
Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park is one of South Australia’s iconic destinations, compromising approximately 95,000 hectares. It includes the Heysen Range, Brachina and Bunyeroo gorges and the vast amphitheatre of mountains that is Wilpena Pound.
Day 1 – Fri 12 Apr – To Wilmington
Got away at 9:00 with the aim of stopping at Clare on the way through, the centre of the Clare Valley wine district As we left the Barossa behind we were driving through some nice rolling country, but with the wheat just-cut look, rather than grapes.
We saw some nice looking buildings passing through. A very agricultural landscape with some lovely homesteads, a few ruins making places interesting and some gloriously coloured trees reflecting the season. Approaching Clare the grapes were back – they were everywhere.
Clare is a nice town. I was born in County Clare in Ireland and the town was named after the county. So it is strange to see signs like “Clare Telephone exchange” and “Ennis Park” (Ennis is the main town in Co. Clare). A good bit of fun for us. We actually managed to find a parking spot for the car and attached van… an amazing achievement and had a great walk around the town. By the time we got back to the car, the 2 vans in front of us were just pulling out, so I inched up so we couldn’t be blocked in.
North of Clare, we were back to a rolling hills and farms landscape, as the grapes cease. The roads were generally pretty good, although we have found SA roads to be unusually wavy and bouncy. There was a narrow section with lots of bounce approaching Yacka that sticks in my mind. The landscape progressively flattens out as we get further north. Approaching Gladstone there are large areas of denuded land. Perhaps they had grown wheat.
We had been in this country before, when we were returning to Sydney the previous November from Port Lincoln. We had stayed at Wilmington for a night and driven down these same roads before turning left at Gulnare to go to Spalding and places East.
We saw some nice looking buildings passing through towns. Again a very agricultural landscape, and a distant wind farm.
Approaching Wilmington the Mount Remarkable NP rises to our left. We refuelled at Wilmington as we did not know the fuel situation at Wilpena.
We were again at the Beautiful Valley CP – it had not changed a bit. We were pretty much told to just choose a site, anywhere on the hard packed dirt surface. The facilities were pretty good – we showered in their facilities as Kerry had read somewhere that the water was not good so we did not want to connect up. We stayed hitched up. In hindsight we probably should have unhitched and gone into the Mount Remarkable NP to have a look. The cost was $29 for the night. We were actually told last time we were here to not let their water into our van.
Day 2 – Sat 13 Apr – To Flinders Ranges
We got away by 8.30 – it was a pleasant drive north, lots of interesting things to look at – farm ruins a plenty, an excitable emu or two, a fascinating sky, some interesting buildings at Hawker, where we stopped to get information. They actually have some really good maps that you don’t get in Wilpena.
Then we began to see the mountains in the distance getting closer and closer. We are soon up close and personal with some very beautiful mountains.
We stopped at a Elders Range Lookout as we neared the turnoff to Rawnsley Park Station, our destination.
It is a dirt road into the Station, only 4 or so km, and two lovely gum trees form a natural arch.
It is a good van park and camping ground. All sites are packed dirt, but are quite roomy compared to some we have been in lately. We have an easy reverse onto the site and we don’t need levellers. The other facilities are good by us. But we have no TV – with an election we miss our ABC news – we do get a very slow and intermittent Optus, and Kerry’s Telstra only works at the camp kitchen. This is all very disappointing as the van park advertises good signals all around. Not so.
After setting up we drove to the Rawnsley Lookout for some good views, although the sun is behind the mountains so not so clear. But the colours !!!!!
Then we went to Wilpena to pay our entrance fees and get more information from the rangers. We quickly decided to do the Homestead Hike (6.6km walk) and then go up to Wangara Lookout to get an overview of Wilpena Pound (another 500m but straight up). The start of the walk is through the Pound Gap, following Wilpena Creek through tall river red gums and pines. There is a shuttle that can take you about half way to the homestead, but we only saw that as we were near the end of the walk out.
We had not gone very far when a man walking out told us that he had just seen a Yellow Footed Wallaby further along the track. After about 50m, sure enough there was a little fellow hiding behind a tree. Delightful. So lovely to see as they are endangered.
It is a lovely walk with the most amazing river red gums beside us all the way. The colours of the tree close up are so varied. No wonder Hans Heysen painted this landscape so much.
These magnificent river gum trees mean that there is water in the gorge and sure enough we come to a large water hole. You would not want to swim in it but it must be a life saver to the animals and birds in the area. Everything is so dry.
We then get to Sliding Rock, the sole entry/exit point to the Pound. A rugged place, with what would be a wide swamp-land behind it in normal times. Records show how difficult access was, especially in wet times.
There is obviously a spring somewhere up the valley – the information panels do talk about permanent water, and the water seeps over the track at one place.
Although the Hills family, who used the Pound, had their homestead at Glenallen, they stayed in a pug and pine shepherds hut, built in 1888 while they were working in the Pound. Sometime in the early 1900s the hut was replaced by a stone house located just beyond the entrance to the Pound. It looks so small. Renovated from ruin in 1995 by local craftsmen, the crumbling walls, rotting beams and collapsed verandah were restored, bringing the homestead back to its original glory. There are interpretive signs on the history of the Hill family and the First Nation dreamtime story nearby.
The memories of Jessie Hills are set out in display panels. Her father had told her that a man named Chace had found his way into the Pound in 1851. It seemed that with its naturally towering walls, a permanent water supply, and only one entrance at Sliding Rock Gorge, it would be a perfect place to hold stock. A man named Price was the first manager for Wilpena Run, taking 120,000 sheep there. As it was only 400 sq miles, this was stocking the land way beyond its limit. In those early days they had to try to maximise profit as the rent was based on what the Government thought they should run, regardless of seasonal conditions. Pretty tough.
In 1857 the Big Commission found that the overstocking had destroyed most of the vegetation fit for pasture. The land was left bare and most pastoralists just walked away. But Mr Price, reduced the sheep to 20,000 and managed successfully until the lease ran out in 1888. The panels are so interesting. They tell of the families struggles with the worst of droughts followed by the worst of floods, the difficulties of getting in and out at Sliding Rock, the struggles to build a road through there, and the end of the farming side of the the Pound when the road was washed away in a big flood. The land was only suitable for stock, not crops.
We climbed up to Wangara lower lookout, which was a steep but not so difficult walk. The views gave us a good picture of the pound – a string of high mountains and cliffs sourcing a depression, with the only outlet along the watercourse at Sliding Rock. I walked to the upper lookout where the physical geography was made even clearer. Life there must have been an incredible struggle.
It was a good walk back – nice temperatures with an overcast sky. The gum trees are amazing. There were grass trees in some areas and plenty of kangaroos about – even some goats near Wilpena. The rangers have got rid of most of the goats – only about 10 remain. We saw the herd of 10 as we approached the Wilpena Resort (and ranger station). Also saw a kangaroo / wallaby that looked almost albino – such a beautiful silvery colour which I’d never seen before.
On the way back to the van park we stopped at the Rawnsley Station Lookout – the cliffs are beautiful.
Day 3 – Sun 14 Apr – Drive through Flinders Ranges
It was a clear and warmish start to the day – much different from our very cold days in the southern parts of SA. On the bitumen again, we stopped at Elders Range Lookout again as the the sun was shining right at them.
We turned right right onto the Moralana Scenic Drive. This dirt road – in pretty good condition – took us across the south of the NP to the Parachilna Road.
And what a beautiful drive it is. We had the Wilpena Pound Range to our right – shades of deep blue and black with the sun behind it. To our left is the Elders Range; the colours are stunning in the morning sunlight. We took a small diversion of a couple of kms to Blacks Gap, a lovely drive over steep dark hills – great experience. It ends in a turning circle.
Soon after we got to a rest area and pulled over. There was a hill behind which is marked as a walking trail – it must be the Heysen Trail. I walked up the hill to get some great views.
Approaching the bitumen road to Parachilna the landscape changed completely. The dramatic mountain ranges to our left were gone replaced by a range of much smaller barren hills. But we still had the mountains to our right – the Heysen Range – often a silhouette being the eastern sun.
Pretty soon, 10km or so, we were at the turnoff to the Brachina Gorge. We drove across the flat plains to the start of the Gorge – the Brachina Lookout. Again lovely views across a stunning country.
We read that about 600 million years ago a huge meteorite, about 4km in diameter, hit the Earth about 300km to the west. The impact created a crater over 30km wide and several km deep. Debris was showered over a massive area including this area. The track through the gorge presents a picture of the horizontal layering of the exposed predominant rocks. Display boards tell us the type and age of the rocks as we pass through the gorge.
We started the drive through the Brachina Gorge and quickly realised that the track was nothing like the dirt roads we had been driving on so far. Much more fractured and rough. We decided to let the tyres down as we had many kms to go.
We just loved the beauty of the gorge – the rugged rock formations, the colour of the different stones and the high cliffs. It is a short but really enjoyable drive.
Leaving the Gorge, we stopped at another lookout – yes, there was a view or two.
Then we drove to the Aroona Valley Lookout – views to the north. We had just met a mother and daughter who were camping up there – the daughter took the photo above – the only people in the campsite.
We drove down Bunyeroo Rd and it was only about 12km to the trailhead for the Bunyeroo Gorge Hike. We pulled in there. The walk was listed as 7.5km return and the best things about it were the incredible Red River Gum trees and colours of the rocks that were strewn across the river bed.
The walk followed the river bed of the gorge, mostly on a track alongside the gorge. The river red gums dotted along the river bed are magnificent. On both sides are cliffs, often steep and imposing.
It was very hot and so incredibly dry that we did not do the whole walk. We turned around a bit past the half way mark, at a point where the gorge changes direction. My new Keen shoes are well and truly broken in now. So glad I replaced them as the old Keens had barely any tread left on the back – making for some pretty slippery downhill walks.
Next we came to an unnamed lookout, which was quite packed. Still we squeezed in to enjoy the great views. Only about 1km from that we got to Razorback lookout – breathtaking views in all directions. Photos can’t do it justice.
From there we headed back to the van park, enjoying the drive through the continuing mountains. Saw a hill with a striking crown of stones. We stopped to inflate the tyres just before we hit the bitumen.
Day 4 – Mon 15 Apr – Flinders Ranges
Another lovely day – the mountains looked great standing proudly in the sun.
We started by doing a drone video. It has proved so difficult to use the drone – forbidden in a NP in all states, and difficult in many other areas. And whenever we mention the word “drone”, the wind would automatically get up to 40kmh. But this one worked, and appears as a cameo clip in our video of this post – click here.
We went to see the Arkaroo Rock near Rawnsley Lookout – rated as a 3km walk, starting at the base of the Wilpena Pound Range. The walk is pretty steep to begin with, up to the start of the loop. At that stage Kerry’s foot was starting to painfully play up, so she turned around and headed back to The Cruiser.
I went around the loop clockwise, which I thought worked quite well. It was a good walk taking me closer and closer to the cliff face. The First Nation peoples’ artwork is on the curved face of a very large rock. It is protected by a wire cage and has a viewing platform. Another similar rock was nearby but with no drawings.
From there I continued the loop which followed a creek bed. Good views on the way. At the last lookout, I was disgusted to see that someone had left a soft drink can on the seat – for someone else to take out. Hate that. Yes, I did take it out.
We drove into the NP to the Old Wilpena Station precinct, and saw an emu on the way. Exploring the Station was good. Many of the building are still in original condition. Unfortunately, there was a recently-deceased kangaroo lying on the floor of the buggy-house. Stank to high heaven so we did not linger in that area.
The homestead looks to be in good shape but we could not get in or look in, which is a shame. The gardens have all but left to ruin. One of the display panels had a copy of the land lease. This was really stacked against the pastoralist, especially the levy – 16 cattle or 100 sheep per sq mile, regardless of the season or conditions. No wonder so many went broke and walked off the land.
Back at Rawnsley Station I did the short Kangaroo Gap Lookout walk. This followed Kangaroo Creek – lovely gums – to a small knoll. As it is not high the views are not spectacular, except the one back to Rawnsley Bluff.
To see photos from this blog, click here
To see a video from this blog, click here