Echuca – a key centre in the history of the opening up of inland NSW, Victoria and South Australia. We really enjoyed the tour of the Wharf and its environs. We loved walking around to look at the many historic buildings in the town. We were also lucky enough to see the start of the ANZAC parade. We really liked Echuca – such an interesting place!
We went to Echuca between 24 to 25 April 2019.
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting There
Curlwaa > Swan Hill > Echuca ~ 394kms.
History
Originally the Yorta Yorta people occupied these lands – a unique stretch of river red gum wetlands that are located in what is now known as the central Murray – Goulburn region.
While the settlers at Echuca are said to have treated the local Indigenous Australians with relative kindness, their way of life was irrevocably changed by their relationship with the Europeans. Smallpox threatened their well-being in the late 1820s to the 1850s. They were relegated to the role of fringe-dwellers, living on the banks of the Murray River, and occasionally entering into the European economy as fishermen and farm labourers, and by selling the possum rugs which they crafted.
Echuca was founded by one of the most enterprising characters of the early colonial days, an ex-convict named Henry Hopwood. In 1850 he bought a small punt, which operated across the Murray River near the Campaspe River Junction. A relatively small settlement developed, known as Hopwood’s Ferry, which became the town of Echuca. The Hopwood’s Punt Post Office opened around 1854 and was renamed Echuca Post Office in 1855.
Hopwood worked to establish a town, which eventually had a major influence on the development of the great inland river system. When he died in 1869 he left a thriving town where nothing had existed 16 years earlier, when he built his first slab Inn.
By the 1870s Echuca had become Australia’s largest inland port. Being the point of shortest distance between the Murray River and the major city of Melbourne, Echuca was both a key river port and railway junction. Steam-driven paddleboats would arrive at the 400-metre long redgum Echuca Wharf, which were unloaded and the goods transported by rail to Melbourne. Wool, wheat, other grains, livestock and timber were the most common cargoes. The wharf has been listed as a Heritage Place on the Australian National Heritage List.
This industrial boom led to a rapidly expanding population, at one stage in excess of 15,000, with more than a hundred pubs/hotels rumoured to exist in the Echuca district at one time. An iron bridge was constructed over the Murray River in 1878 by the NSW Railways Department.
The expansion of the railways from Melbourne to most parts of Victoria, as well as improvements to roads and fickle river conditions all combined to lessen Echuca’s importance, and by the 1890s the paddle-steamer fleet was in decline. An economic depression and the collapse of several banks virtually ended Echuca’s role as a major economic centre, and its population began to disperse.
Day 1 – Wed 24 Apr – To Echuca
The weather at Curlwaa looked to be clearing as we left for Mildura to get fuel. The cheapest service station was on the road to Echuca. We aimed to call into Swan Hill to have a quick look
The drive Mildura to Hattah on the Calder Hwy was not very exciting – just brown farmland and some dry tussock clay pans. But the road was pretty good.
We turned left at Hattah and the road was much more variable. Mostly good bitumen but occasionally narrow central strips with ragged edges. There were also a surprising number of large trucks going the other way. One issue for us is that there were few if any rest areas. Every 2 hours or so we try to stop and change drivers. But so often there is nowhere safe to stop.
Near Wemen we saw more and more agriculture – lots of grapes and fruit trees, we thought. Increasing irrigation channels as we get closer to the river. it became a more interesting drive – though on one side there was scrubby dirt, while on the other all sorts of agriculture.
We passed a massive solar farm at Wemen, and what looked like preparation for more panels. So good to see.
We turned onto the C251 at Annuello to find the road surface being worked over and repaired. We were assured that the road was actually bitumen beyond the roadworks. Which it was, although it was very variable.
The landscape was also not pretty – brown and more brown. Quite a few clay pans, flat areas covered in tufted plants.
At Nyah we got close to the river and stopped for a break. Lovely riverside area.
We called in to Swan Hill and went straight to the river foreshore. All very pretty and being well used by the locals. The town looked pretty good but we did not venture in. We almost missed the giant Murray Cod.
South of Swan Hill we came to Lake Boga, a massive Lake. It was so calm. We stopped in a rest area where the Cannie Ridge Pump is on display. The steam driven pump was originally installed in the irrigation system in 1903 and then put in place next to the lake in 1955 as a memorial.
Closer to Echuca we saw much more greenery and irrigation, firing over some large water supply canals. In the town we admired the really lovely railway station and a nearby workshop. The station is still in use.
Our reaction to the Discovery Parks Echuca was mixed. It was always clean and the facilities are up there with the best – even a heated swimming pool, and they brought in a large TV on a trailer and put the afternoon AFL game on. Perhaps that was for the ANZAC service in the morning – we did not know. We got both Optus (our 4G modem plus my phone) and Telstra (Kerry’s phone).
But it was a massive park – I got lost after visiting the heated pool at the opposite end of the park to where we were. As we were there during the Easter/ANZAC Day holidays and also school holidays, the place was packed. The sites were quite small for modern vans and everyone had problems getting cars off the roads. I had to ask the fellow next to us if he could move his car a bit so I could open the van boot! It was not a great experience, even if only for 2 nights. It was incredibly noisy. The big TV was blaring until about 10.30pm and there was a group partying on, who had taken over the camp kitchen completely. The 2nd night, they were all inside, but with the doors open. I went and shut the doors and told them because they were disturbing everyone…. somehow, miraculously, the doors stayed shut so the sound was muted.
After setting up we went into town for a visit to the tourist information office and to have quick look around – lots of glorious buildings everywhere.
Day 2 – Wed 25 Apr – Echuca
This being ANZAC Day we expected not much to be open. But most shops and cafes seemed to close in the morning only, and then opened to entertain the tourists.
We walked around town for a good while looking at all of the heritage buildings. And there are so many! Below are just a few – schools and hotels and shops and homes, brilliant. Many more are shown in our photo post – click here.
On our walk around we had seen quite a few diggers, dressed with their medals and walking proudly to the assembly point. We were so lucky that we found ourself at that assembly point in time for the march. I had not ever seen a country town march before and it was incredibly moving. A brass band led the way and the ex-soldiers and sailors and pilots and crew walked proudly behind, with flags flying. It was not a large group, perhaps 100 plus, but there was tremendous support for them. Kids and grandkids were everywhere have their photos taken with their special person. The start of the march is shown in our video – click here.
Its confronting to realise that the oldest “diggers” marching here are actually Vietnam War Vets…. none of the possible age group of WWII or Korean Vets are here. But so very moving – we are privileged to be here.
We continued our walk through the town then drove out to the junction of the Campaspe and Murray Rivers. It was good to see and there appeared to be plenty of water in both rivers.
We went back to the port area and found a parking spot – it was getting really busy. We went to the Echuca Port Discovery Centre, passing the trees covered with thongs. Each to his/her own. We elected for the 11.30 tour, at a total cost of $16.50. How can it be that cheap? As we waited, a stage coach trotted past. We saw it a few times, mostly full.
This was great – a little hammy for sure, but it was a great recount on the history not just of the town but also of the opening up of inland Australia. As outlined above in the history section, by the 1870s Echuca had become Australia’s largest inland port. Being the point of shortest distance between the Murray River and the Melbourne, Echuca was both a key river port and railway junction.
The funniest part of the tour concerned the infamous Star Hotel. Back in the day Echuca had 78 hotels, none more notorious than the Star, located right at the wharf. The pub lost its licence in 1897 when the powers that be decided to clean up the wharf so that arrivals by boat would not be welcomed by drunks that used to frequent the pub. It was so convenient for everyone who worked on the wharf. To get around this, the pub created an underground bar and dug a tunnel that led out to the back alley so drinkers could escape any raiding police. This is still in place and is quite a tourist attraction. The hotel was converted into a private residence and the secret drinking den lay undiscovered for more than 40 years. The second photo is the edit through the “secret” tunnel. Apparently the police still raided the place, but the tunnel was dug (by wharfies) and hidden behind a hinged book-case so no more arrests were possible.
The Australian Colonies Government Act allowed colonial parliaments to impost custom duties. When Victoria became a seperate colony duties were then payable on all goods transported from SA and NSW, and vice versa. This led to never-ending attempts to avoid the tax and reinforced Echuca as the “Chicago of the south”. There were also many conflicts over labour – unionised or non-union. One conflict led to the burning of a paddlesteamer.
The wharf itself is just an amazing structure. At its peak it was 332m long with two massive sheds for grain and for general goods. In its busiest year, 240 paddle steamers were handled at the port. At times of high water paddlesteamers travelled as far north as Walgett near the Qld border. A round trip to Bourke (2,100km) was undertaken in around 5 weeks. However river levels change quickly and in drought times or when the river dropped quickly boats could be stuck for 9 months or more.
I love the model of the Adelaide – not sure why that particular boat appealed to me.
The timber work for the structure is awesome. During WWII the railways department demolished 4/5 of the Wharf, sending timber to Melbourne to ease timber shortages.
After the tour we walked through the port areas – lovely house to one side and the amazing log trolly made entirely from river red gums.
There are so many boats here and almost everything is a part of our history. A truely amazing place.
Back at the van park we walked the very short distance to the River. Lovely peaceful spot – if it were not for the loons hooning about on jet skis. Hate those things.
To see photos from this post, click here
To see a short video from this post, click here