We had never heard of Bondoola or Mt Wheeler and had only recently taken up farmstays rather than the traditional caravan park. Mt Wheeler is a working equestrian farm near Bondoola, providing good access to Yeppoon. Our aim was to visit again Yeppoon, a town we had stayed at early on our big trip around Oz ( we were there on 14 March 2018 for 5 days). We had terrible weather back then – I will never forget those winds and moving the caravan a couple of times to try to escape those howlers.
Our post for 2018 is here
We arrived at Mt Wheeler from Jarravale on 25 Jun 2024 and left on 27 June, heading south and then home.
Getting There
From Jarravale, Mt Walker is a longish drive down the Bruce Highway – 361kms. The Highway does not have a good reputation but it is generally ok – lots of passing lanes and truck stops, but fewer rest areas than we are used to in NSW.
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
History
First Nations
The Capricorn Coast is part of the traditional lands of the Darumbal First Nations people. To read a comprehensive history of the Darhmbal people, including the conflict with the British settlers, click here. Horrific deeds were carried out.
The traditional boundaries of the Darhmbal people are the Styx River to the North, Raglan Creek to the South, Westwood and bottom of Mt Morgan Range to the West.
Before contact with the British, the Darumbal people lived in harmony with their country. There were four clan groups which constituted the Darumbal Nation. The clans all lived within their own territorial boundaries they considered theirs. These boundaries were marked by Mountains, Creeks, Tree’s – all natural landmarks. I saw this interesting plaque at Wreck Point.
Whilst at Springsure on this trip I also found some excellent informations panels about the first Nations people in that area – around Emerald. I am guessing that life here would be pretty much the same as in that area. To read about these people, and particularly their use of plants for food and medicines, click here.
The way of life of the First Nations people can be read here in the first 5 or so pages after page 3. This is a generic assessment, not one specific to an area. Click here.
There was terrible conflict between the First Nations people and the British settlers in relation to access to land across the country. There were terribly tragic events that were commonplace as the British commandeered the land, and used the Native Mounted Police to clear the lands of the traditional owners. This is very well documented in the booklet Aboriginal people in Queensland: a brief human rights history issued by the Anti-Discrimination Commission Queensland, Click here.
British Colonial Times
The British colonisation of the area began in 1853, when the Archer brothers, Charles and William, who were seeking grazing lands, arrived in the Rockhampton area. They were acting on information from earlier expeditions by Ludwig Leichhardt and Thomas Mitchell, who had explored the area in 1844 and 1846 and noted suitable land for grazing then.
A detailed history of the British settlement in the Rockhampton/Yeppoon area can be read here and here.
Today, Yeppoon is part of the commuter belt around Rockhampton. It is also a popular holiday destination and is surrounded by beautiful beaches where, for most of the year, the swimming is good and the opportunities for fishing, walking, cruising around the Great Barrier Reef, exploring the rugged headlands and relaxing, are inviting. The town itself is a modern service centre for the surrounding district.
The population estimate for Yeppoon township as of the 30th June 2023 is 7,485. Bondoola had a population of 551 people.
Day 1 – Tuesday 25 June 2024 – To Mt Wheeler, look around
It was an interesting drive south to Bondoola – the Bruce Highway takes us through a very attractive landscape, especially with those lovely mountains and volcanic plugs.
We had a worrisome time finding our way to the farmstead. The instructions to get to the site would have been adequate if there had been a few reference points telling us that we were on the right road. Even red ribbon tied to a few tree branches would do. We found ourselves going down an increasingly narrow dirt road towing a van but not knowing what could happen if we were in the wrong place and had to turn the van around.
I was driving and we actually drove past what we now know is the site gate. I was at the next gate along. I called Madeline who told us we were at the wrong gate and to go back. I only just managed to turn the van, don’t ask me how. I thought – oh well, if I lose a headlight on that massive tree, it’ll be worth it to get the van out. Luckily I managed the turn without incident.
The actual site was really quite nice – a large grassed area with no horses and no other vanners or campers. We had the place to ourselves. We set up away from the big shed and bunkhouse as requested by the host. We never actually met the host.
We set up our new solar blanket and got our new PS2000 portable lithium power station (2000W and 160Ah). This worked great, powered by the solar blanket.
There were a few horses in the next field and Kerry gave them a good pat.One was a bit snappy, but the others all good natured.
Looking around the facilities we found one toilet on the side of the big shed with the steel mesh locking everything in. We could not get into that. We also found a shower in the bunkhouse but could not find the second toilet mentioned by the owner. The fire pit was great and we had it going nicely that evening and night.
Day 2 – Wednesday 26 June 2024 – Yeppoon
We spent the day at Yeppoon, a town that had impressed us in 2018. It looked a vibrant place and we wanted to see if things are changing.
We started at the tourist information office near the lagoon and main beach.
We then went up to Wreck Point. This scenic lookout located in Cooee Bay gives 360 degree views of the Capricorn Coast and Keppel Bay. In October 1848 the 62 ton transport schooner Selina was found waterlogged and dismastered, washed ashore near this point, by Captain Roach of the cutter Will-o’-the-Wisp.
The Selina was built for Captain Deloitte of Sydney and launched in Brisbane in 1847. She had departed the Pine River on 31 July bound for Sydney with a cargo of cedar logs and carrying a crew including Captain Cameron. Selina failed to arrive in Sydney and was not sighted again until she was found 15 months later near this spot, now known as Wreck Point
We followed the Capricorn Coast Tourist Drive to Rosslyn, where we wanted to see Double Head and Pebble Beach.
As part of Capricorn Coast National Park Double Head Section, Pebble Beach is located not far from Keppel Bay Marina at Rosslyn Bay. It is one of the favourite places for weddings.
The trail to Pebble Beach ascends gradually but is easy to follow. You quickly reach the clearing, about 220 meters from the car park, where we found a small rocky bay, perfect for a picnic. Looking straight out to the sea – Pebble Beach is sandwiched between two peaks, The Double Head. As its name suggests, there are lots of pebbles around this beach, which will form some rock pools when the tide is out.
From there we went to the fishing co-operative for tonights dinner. They really have excellent seafood there.
Further on from Rosslyn is Bluff Point presenting a good opportunity for a short walk. The walk on the the Bluff Point circuit – in the Bluff Point section of Capricorn Coast National Park – and provides panoramic views of the Capricorn coastline and the Keppel Bay islands. Unfortunately I could not make the walk.
First I climbed the steep 600 metres to Turtle Lookout where I could admire the flooded hill tops of the Keppel Bay islands and spot turtles swimming in the water way beneath me. But there ware no turtles there today. It was also getting quite misty. I continue a short distance to Ritamada Outlook for views along the coast. From there I continued along the track through open grasslands with views of the hinterland, and dense dry rainforest to complete the 2.3 kilometre circuit. A good walk spoilt by the increasing mist. Rain is on the way.
Further on again we get to singing ship memorial, which we had so much admired last time we were here.
Set against a spectacular coastal view of blue seas and Great Keppel Island in the distance, the Singing Ship at Emu Park provides a majestic monument that commemorates the area’s legacy of the historical explorations of Captain James Cook, who discovered this bay in May 1770. But today we don’t have those blue skies, and the singing is missing.
The unique design represents the billowing sail, mast and rigging of Cooks ship The Endeavour. Concealed organ pipes use the sea breezes to create the musical sounds.
Just below the Singing Ship is a viewing deck and boardwalk that makes up part of the Centenary of ANZAC Memorial Walk. The impressive boardwalk hugs the coastline and remembers the community’s service men and women. It’s a beautiful, but incredibly rugged coastline. Very inhospitable to wrecked ships and their seamen.
We went back to near the town centre and had a look around. Once again we left the town well satisfied for its future.
Back at the van park we could just see Mt Gai-i in the mist and increasing rain.
We also noticed that while we were out someone had been in and locked the door to the bunkhouse. So no shower.
The rain increase in tempo and we grew concerned about getting the van out along the dirt road. We could not remember if there was were any potential for local flooding. At 4am we both woke and as the field was getting saturated we decided to get the van out as quickly as possible. We donned our water proofs and head torches and packed everything. Thankfully we got out without an issue. Very hairy experience as it was dark and the track was increasingly slippery – thank heavens for Low Range 4WD mode.
This farmstay was one of the most expensive on this trip. And we had to leave a day early . We had some issues with the rental which we think could have been eased if the host had met us and showed us what was where.
To see our photos fr0m this post, click here.
To watch a video of our time at Yeppoon, click here.