Cardwell, Qld

We had been to Cardwell on our big trip around the country in 2018. That post is here.

Much of what we had sought to do on that first visit had been denied us because of rain and flooding. This time the weather was beautiful.

We arrived at Cardwell from Charters Towers on 13 Jun 2024 and left on 15 June, heading south and home.

Getting There

From Charters Towers it is about 299km to get to Cardwell. But it was an easier drive than going up the Great Inland Way which is one of the bumpiest roads we have travelled.

We headed for the coast and then took the Townsville bypass on the Bruce Highway.

Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia

History

First Nations

The terrible conflict between the First Nations people and the British settlers is set out in our previous post for Cardwell in 2018. Really tragic events, that were commonplace as the British commandeered the land.

Whilst at Springsure I found some excellent informations panels about the first Nations people in that area – around Emerald. To read about these people, and particularly their use of plants for food and medicines, click here.

As well, the way of life of the First Nations people can be read here in the first 5 or so pages. This is a generic assessment, not one specific to the Cardwell area.

Colonial Times

The British settlement of Cardwell is also set out in the 2018 post. It can also be read here.

Today the difficulty of the terrain (mountains on one side, mangroves on the other side) means that Cardwell is the only town on the Bruce Highway between Townsville and Cairns that is located on the coast. It is noted, not so much for its glorious beaches, but for its muddy foreshore and its crocodiles, sharks and box jellyfish. The appeal of the area lies in part in its history.

it was the starting point of Edmund Kennedy’s ill-fated journey up the coast and there is a beautiful drive into the hinterland -The Cardwell Forest Drive.

In the 2021 census, the locality of Cardwell had a population of 1,320 people

Day 1 – Thursday 13 June 2024 – To Cardwell

It was a beautiful morning, cloudless deep blue skies. The landscape initially was the mix of wooded areas, agricultural areas, and occasionally areas flat as can be, but increasingly with hills and mountains growing on the horizon. As we headed east things changed and we were increasingly driving through much closer mountains making their own statements – a mountain ledge here, a pinnacle there and a long range of rocky shapes standing out in their dark blue colour with the sun at their back.

And then we swept onto the coastal plains which are dominated by sugar cane, a crop standing proudly for 3 or so metres high with a fluffy head of flowers to crown the plant. We had never seen sugar cane in flower before.

We stayed at the Meunga Creek van park which is about 7km north of Cardwell and picked a site near the river. Lots of room and a fire pit. The owner later told us not to walk along the river as crocs have been sighted in the estuary – the creek runs to the estuary. Through the van park, the creek is deeply incised so it would be unlikely that a croc would bother climbing up the 3m to 4m banks.

After setting up we drove to town and walked along the foreshore. It’s a lovely walk with Hinchinbrook Island as a backdrop. And walked out to the end of the jetty.

That night we got the fire going.

Day 2 – Friday 14 June 2024 – Cardwell Forest Drive

We were primarily at Cardwell to do the Forest Drive again. This is a 25km or so drive that will allow us to see four landmarks – Cardwell Lookout, Attie Creek, Dead Horse Creek and the beautiful Spa Pool. The drive is on a mix of sealed roads and gravel roads which were in very good condition. Much of the roads were through pine plantations.

The lookout was good – we were surprised at how big Hinchinbrook Island really is. I took the track up to see the higher views, which were much better. But Kerry could not take that track with her back and hip problems.

Next we got to Attie Ck Falls starting with the lower pools we first got to. Although Parks recommends 4X4, we had no problems getting there with our Pajero Sports in normal driving mode. The lower falls are a gentle rush of the water over a shaded rock bars and then into rock pools.

I climbed up to the top falls and rock pool – about a 500m track. Beautiful place where there is a 25m drop into a good sized pool. Pity the water is so cold . When we were here in 2018 we went swimming here – a great experience.

At the tourist information centre they had recommended us not to do the Dead Horse Creek walk, or a least not to go very far in. The further you go the more difficult the pools and gorges become and you have to swim through most pools. We walked a little way in but quickly could see the issues we would face. Definitely a no for me but then I saw that the rocks were getting very slippery. We retreated.

Further along we got to the Spa Pool a short walk to Scrubby Creek. What a delight this is, especially the turquoise colour of the water in the big pool.

The spa is a natural depression in the creek bed which causes the water to bubble and swirl like a jacuzzi. Wonderful place.But too cold for swimming this time of year.

I vividly recall the time we were there in 2018 when there was water water everywhere. I was in the spa but got dragged out: click here

After lunch we went to see how the port and resident developments are getting on to the south of the town. In 2018 we thought they had run out of steam with many homes not yet build. The mud flats are still there – not a pretty sight. Not much has changed – this newish development seems to have lost its impetus and looks sadly neglected.