We had only driven through Bowen on our big trip around the country in 2018. We only stopped for a brief look around. Much of what we had sought to do on the first visit had been denied us because of rain and flooding. This time the weather had been beautiful. But we had scant knowledge of Bowen although our friends Jenny and Dave rave about it. They were so right.
We arrived at Bowen from Ingham on 20 Jun 2024 and left on 23 June, heading south and then home.
Getting There
From Ingham, Bowen is a longish drive down the Bruce Highway – 311kms. The Highway does not have a good reputation but it is generally ok.
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
History
To read a comprehensive history of Bowen, including the conflict between First Nations people and the British settlers. Horrific deeds were carried out. Click here.
First Nations
Bowen is a town where the footprints of its original inhabitants, the Juru Aboriginal people, and the descendants of South Sea Islander labourers, have left an indelible mark on its cultural diversity.
Bowen’s history can be traced back thousands of years when the Juru Aboriginal people called this land their home. The Juru, who have lived in the region for countless generations, have a deep connection to the land, sea, and the nearby islands of the Whitsundays.
Their intricate knowledge of the land’s flora, fauna, and seasonal rhythms has been handed down through the ages, sustaining their communities and enriching the region’s biodiversity. For the Juru, Bowen has been a place of spiritual significance, with landmarks like Mother Beddock Rock serving as important cultural sites.
In the mid-19th century, laborers from the South Pacific Islands, primarily Vanuatu and the Solomon Islands, were brought to Bowen by the settlers and surrounding areas to work in the burgeoning sugarcane industry. These South Sea Islanders were known as “Kanakas,” and made significant contributions to local culture and the economy.
Their labor played a pivotal role in the prosperity of Bowen’s sugarcane plantations. Today, the South Sea Islander community continues to honor their ancestors through cultural events, music, dance, and art. The annual “Kanaka Cup” rugby league competition, held in their honor, stands as a testament to their enduring influence on Bowen’s identity.
Whilst at Springsure on this trip I found some excellent informations panels about the first Nations people in that area – around Emerald. To read about these people, and particularly their use of plants for food and medicines, click here.
The way of life of the First Nations people can be read here in the first 5 or so pages after page 3. This is a generic assessment, not one specific to an area. Click here.
There was terrible conflict between the First Nations people and the British settlers in relation to access to land across the country. There were terribly tragic events that were commonplace as the British commandeered the land, and used the Native Mounted Police to clear the lands of the traditional owners. This is very well documented in the booklet Aboriginal people in Queensland: a brief human rights history issued by the Anti-Discrimination Commission Queensland, Click here.
Colonial Times
Captain James Cook named Cape Gloucester on his voyage of exploration up the Australian coast in 1770. This “cape” turned out to be an island, which dominates the view from Bowen’s eastern beaches. Behind the island is a bay that forms an excellent port, which the town came to be built around.
Shipwreck survivor, James Morrill, resided briefly in the area around the year 1850 with the local Aboriginal clan during his seventeen years living as a castaway.
In 1859 Captain Henry Daniel Sinclair led an expedition to the area in response to a reward offered by the colony of NSW for finding a port somewhere north of Rockhampton. They came across a “most splendid harbour” which Sinclair named Port Denison after the colonial governor of NSW, William Denison. On the shore they found “several acres of ground resembling a garden full of a vegetable resembling nuts” which the local Aboriginal people had constructed. So the settlement began.
Today Bowen is a popular coastal town and locality in the Whitsunday Region of Australia. For complex reasons the constant stream of travellers heading north tends to by-pass Bowen. In 2001 it was found that only 6% of the one million travellers on the Bruce Highway turned off to go to Bowen. I hope it stays like that so that this wonderful town is protected from excessive development.
In the 2021 census, the locality of Bowen had a population of 11,205 people.
Day 1 – Thursday 20 June 2024 – To Bowen, look around
It’s a 311km drive on the Bruce, not a bad run – skirting around Townsville. Good landscapes, an interesting church, and the impressive Burdekin Bridge. Then a rock outcrop with a very white section – like chalk cliffs.
We have a good van park – Bowen Holiday Park, with a concrete slab for our sitting area and the rest is grass. The sites are spacious and most are shaded. The facilities are not new but are quite adequate.
We found the Tourist Information office just near the Jetty at Front Beach. There we found the first of so many murals – Bowen is certainly known as a mural city – we love to see those, and many are included in the post. Fabulous when artists are allowed to beautify outdoor spaces.
At low tide it is a long way to get to deep water – hence the length of the jetty.
Lovely to see a turtle.
From there we went around to Flagstaff Hill, which, the booklet says, offers some of the best coastal views you will see with a 360-degree panorama of the whole Bowen region, and you won’t have to walk up a hill!
The views encompass the Whitsunday Islands of Gloucester, Middle, Stone, Holbourne and close to shore. North Head Island with its historic lighthouse, was a standout for us.
The expanse of Kings Beach is seen from the top of the Hill, stretching all the way to Rose Bay.
We next wandered around the central parts of town looking at the heritage buildings and so many murals. There are so many it was hard to select our favourite ones here.
From there it was back to the van for us.
Day 2 – Friday 21 June 2024 – Grays Bay, Horseshoe Bay
We wanted to go to Horseshoe Bay and also explore Grays Bay. So we drove to the North East corner of town to see these spectacular beaches and rocky outcrops, along a small peninsular. We started at Grays Bay on the western side.
The literature rates this as one of the most picturesque bays in Queensland, one of the few places on the East Coast where you can watch the sun set. When the tide is in, the water laps less than a metre from the road, and with its azure water, white sand and rocky outcrops, makes it truly a great place.
There’s ample parking, a boat ramp, free barbecues and a playground situated under big shady trees. A very pretty place and ideal for little kids swimming as the water is calm.
Horseshoe Bay is Bowen’s most iconic beach, regularly topping best beaches lists. The beach is framed by two granite outcrops which provide a haven for a wonderful range of fish and coral just a short swim from the beach. The bay’s fringing reef is a top spot for divers and snorkellers and for a small fee, snorkelling equipment can be hired from the Horseshoe Bay Resort. However, it was too cold for us old folk to venture into the water.
But what a beautiful place.
I decided to walk up to the Lookout. Wonderful views.
We decided to leave Murray Bay until the next day.
Day 3 – Saturday 22 June 2024 – Horseshoe Bay, Murray Bay, Rose Bay, Queens Beach
We drove to that glorious North East peninsula again, but this time onto Pat Smith Drive to get to Murray Bay. We parked at the end of that road and made our way to the delightful Bay. Access to the secluded beach is solely down a narrow track or via the Cape Edgecumbe walking trail.
This is a beautiful tropical beach complete with coconut trees and fringing reef, and some amazing boulders – how are they so round? And how do they stay up there without toppling over?
With views of the Cape’s impressive granite boulders and offshore islands, the outlook is incredible and is also a prime spot for whale watching. The bay is a favourite for photographers and provides excellent snorkelling, diving and fishing.
From there Kerry went back and drove the car to Rose Bay and waited for me there while I continued down the Cape Edgecumbe Walking Trail. This is a short walk of about 2.5km features giant acid granite boulders. I had completed the start of this the day before up to the Rotary Lookout
There are stunning views along the track including Mother Beddock – a large balancing rock with panoramic views over Rose Bay.
From Rose Bay we drove around to Queens Beach on the north side of town. This provides a a long white sandy beach, offering a 5km stroll with beautiful sunrises and sunsets. Unfortunately we did not get to see any of those.
Our friend Jenny, whom we stayed with at Mission Beach had told us we had to check out the famous picture theatre at Queens Beach. A very cute art-deco building.
We had spied Bowen ‘s famous water tanks as we drove around town and we had to get up to the hilltop to have a closer look at the amazing murals painted onto the tanks. So we headed in the direction of the tanks – how difficult would it be to find our way up there. Well it proved impossible and in the end we stopped the car and asked a group of people leaving a garage sale how on earth could we get there.
It is impossible to describe the woman driver told us, but not to worry, as she had friends with her and they were all going to see the tanks. Please follow me she said. She led us on a complicated drive to get up to the top, with no signposts until we were just about there.
But it was worth the frustration. The two tanks portray their rich horticultural industry, their amazing natural environment, beautiful sea life and their link to the past. Beautiful vibrant colours. They were painted by well known mural artists, and were completed in September of 2018.
Later we discovered directions to the tanks. They are found on top of the hill in Tynwald Ave. There is a cul-de-sac at its end but there is access for parking a caravan at the site and there is also room for turning. Both tanks are fenced off so can’t walk all around them.
These tanks are so amazing it is difficult to believe that the Council makes it so hard to find them. And wouldn’t it be nice to be able to walk around them and admire the skill of the artists.
That ended our time at beautiful Bowen, a place we have grown to love.
To see photos from this post click here
To see a video from this post click here