Wilsons Promontory, or The Prom, is a truely amazing place. The scenery and the walks are beautiful, many really stunning, and much of this can be enjoyed from the Tidal River Park. The camping area is vast with lots of options and our powered site (there are only 20) was excellent once we squeezed Mobi in. We met some really good people and had a wonderful few days, especially as the weather improved. The bad weather days were really bad, and the population growth for the weekend can be a bit overwhelming. But that didn’t take much away from an unforgettable experience.
We were in Wilsons Promontory on 13, 14 & 15 February 2019
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting There
Yarram > Foster > Tidal River ~ 80kms
History
Indigenous Australians occupied the area at least 6,500 years ago based on archaeological records. “The Prom” has always had spiritual significance for different First Nation groups, who knew the area as Yiruk or Wamoon.
The area was a valuable food source, particularly in summer. The First Nations people collected shellfish there over 6,000 years ago. Middens along the western coast testify to their seafood diet. The Dreamtime stories of Lo-An, Bullum-Boukan, and the Port Albert Frog all make mention of the area.
The first Europeans to sight Wilsons Promontory are believed to be George Bass and Matthew Flinders in 1798. Extensive sealing took place at Sealer’s Cove during the 19th Century – so much so that seals are no longer found there. Extensive lobbying led the Victorian Government to temporarily reserve the area as National Park in 1898, made permanent in 1908. The original settlement in the Park was at Darby River, where a chalet existed.
However, for many years a trip to the Prom was quite an adventure, involving a boat trip across Corner Inlet and a horse ride, or a car drive along the beach, with the risk of being swamped by waves. The main entrance road was not completed until the 1930s.
Wilsons Promontory was used as commando training area during World War II. A memorial to commandos who lost their lives in the War is at Tidal River.
A large section of the park was burnt out in April 2005 by a bushfire caused by a controlled burn that got out of control because of warmer and windier conditions than forecast, causing the evacuation of six-hundred people. During the Black Saturday Fires of February 2009, trees in the Wilsons Promontory were struck by lightning, which then led to the loss of up to 50% of the national park through major fire damage.
Today, the only road open to visitors leads from Yanakie at the park entrance to Tidal River, a distance of 32 kilometres. Tidal River was originally established as an army commando training base during World War II, operating from 1940 to 1942. At the end of the war, the previous ranger station, chalet and camping area at Darby River was in such poor condition that it was abandoned. Instead, the remaining army buildings at Tidal River were adapted and reused for staff and visitor accommodation. In about 1950 the former Darby River ranger’s cottage was relocated to Tidal River, leaving Tidal River and Wilsons Promontory Lighthouse as the only permanently inhabited parts of the park
Day 1 – Wed 13 Feb – To The Prom
It had rained through the night at Yarram, but thankfully it was dry as we packed up. We were away a bit after 9, for a very short drive. Initially the landscape was just flat farmlands, but gradually hills and mountains appeared on our northern side, and we could occasionally see The Prom to the south. It became a much more interesting drive. And so nice to see a wind farm and solar panels on the way too.
On an impulse, and as we were quite early to be arriving at the Prom park, we took a diversion to Port Welshpool. Whalers first used the area as early as the 1830s. The town was gazetted as Welshpool in 1851, and was officially renamed Port Welshpool in 1952. The town built a long jetty for loading and unloading fish catches, cattle and timber. The arrival of the railway in 1891 allowed the local produce to be transported to Melbourne for sale. Today it is a fishing hub with good facilities. The Long Jetty is in good condition. The water is shallow so there are plenty of channel markers.
Approaching Foster, we came up behind 2 vans and a truck travelling very slowly behind a large tractor – top speed 35kph. One by one the others passed him on the rare straight section until finally we got around him, after about 10kms at snails pace.
At Foster we refuelled as there is no fuel at Tidal River – not that we expected to be doing many kms whilst there. But it was also the cheapest around at $1.369. Our fuel economy was way up, about the same as our towing rates from last year – 23.53L/100km. We must have been going into a westerly wind.
The drive to The Prom was pretty interesting but there were also high bushes lining the road so few opportunities for photos. Closer to The Prom, the road is steep and windy in places so care is needed. But it is a pretty good road surface. It was one of those sea-misty mornings and the landscape all looked so soft.
At Tidal River we checked into the Information Office and were told that we could pick any empty powered site that we liked. But they did say it was fully booked. We were charged a staggering $69 per night – ouch!. So we walked around to the sites, which are close to the Office and shop, and found a good one that we could drive onto from the vacant site behind. As we pulled up a lady jokingly asked us to put our van across behind hers to give some protection from the wind.
We had no problems setting up although Mobi is a large van for the site. But we were OK in the end after also levelling the van. It is a good park with clean facilities – there are 20 powered sites but so many excellent non-powered sites spread over many different areas. The only problem is that there is not a water supply to each site, but just a few standing taps scattered around the camping area. If we had known that we would have filled our tanks – we arrived with them only half full (or half empty). We got the Telstra signal quite strongly but Optus struggled.
It was extremely windy and cold, and rain clouds were rolling in, not at all inviting us onto the many walks awaiting our pleasure. So we walked around to the footbridge – a very modern looking bridge over the River, There were school kids out in kayaks and on paddle boards and they must have been freezing.
We then walked around to Norman Beach, which is quite spectacular with striking headlands at either end – a long wide beach with the Tidal R finding its way out at the northern end.
We walked out onto the beach until we felt the rain start. Fortunately we were prepared with rain jackets – I even had my beanie on – but it was pretty awful – “come to Victoria in summer”!! The wind increased as the rain eased and we made our way around to walk back up along the river. Kerry stretched her arms out and was was propelled along by the wind.
I’m not really a huge insect as the photo above depicts, I had sunglasses on as well as a cap and I was looking down…. (no huge fly-eyes there)…..Back at Mobi the weather closed in – we watched new campers arriving and struggling against the weather.
Day 2 – Thu 14 Feb – at The Prom
Strong winds and rain persisted overnight – we had the aircon on heater. We felt sorry for people in tents. We got up to a dull, wet and cold day with intermittent showers and a low cloud cover. Mt Oberon, behind the camp, is shrouded in mist. An unpleasent start.
But the weather improved a bit and at around 9 we went for a walk to Point Pillar, all rugged up and protected against rain. It is only a 3.6km walk, starting at the footbridge, and is well signposted and a good track. We do have to ascend a hill – but you cannot go anywhere around here without meeting a hill – and it is not too bad all all. There are some great shots down to and across Tidal River and Norman Beach as we walk the path.
At the junction with the track to Squeaky Beach we popped around the corner on that track and found a great viewing platform to that beach. Great shots.
Back on out trail, it was not long before we got to Pillar Point – brilliant views all around. But standing at the top of the rock at the end of the walk, the wind was fierce.
We returned to camp and made some sandwiches for lunch to take with us. It is a short drive to Squeaky Beach carpark and only a few hundred meters to the northern end of the beach. Almost straight away Kerry is picking up plastic, there is such a lot around. I join her taking photos as we go. It is a lovely beach with magnificent red coloured rock at the northern end, where a little stream is flowing to the sea. The distant islands added to the picture. The amount of rubbish on this beach was an absolute disgrace… so many lollipop sticks, blue plastic water bottle caps, tiny bits of micro plastic, foam, bits of rope etc. My pockets were quickly full.
The wind had not relented much so we went into the red rocks to find a place to have lunch.
We kept finding plastic and ended up with quite a collection. I then saw a woman doing something very like collecting rubbish. So I went over and introduced myself and then Kerry joined us. Her name is Jill and she has been a collector for a good while. Her frustration is that there does not seem to be a coordinated effort to deal with this issue. We reckon the rubbish is the most we have collected on a non-city beach. I think the most I ever got was at Shelly Beach at Manly in Sydney.
There was a mob of kids on the beach obviously doing a school camp or some such. I went to the fellow in charge and showing him our plastic collection suggested that he set the kids 10 minutes of picking up plastic rubbish. He said “great idea” but did not commit either way. Definite negativity on the teachers part I thought too. A big mistake I think. This type of activity, if suggested correctly, could be something that the kids really get into and take home with them.
From there we drove around to Picnic Bay – a very short distance. But on the way we stopped at Glennie Lookout, with great views to the beaches in both directions.
At Picnic Bay a path took us to a junction – to the left is the beach, down a steepish path, and to the right is to a lookout and then a short track to Whiskey Bay. I went to the beach and Kerry to the lookout to wait for me. The beach is much smaller than Norman and Squeaky, but a lovely shape curving around between two headlands, including more red rocks. I had a quick look for plastic, and got some but it was pretty clean.
Back up to the lookout the views are great – including across to islands Kerry had labelled the “sleeping dragon island” – first picture below. Then Picnic Bay.
We headed off to Whiskey Bay, and we had great views from the pathway. But quickly a shower started and I, at least, was without my jacket. So we beat a hasty retreat. We may come back to this tomorrow – there is a close-by parking area so we can drive there.
On the way back to the park, we drove up the carpark at Telegraph Saddle, a long way up, where people park so as to do the ascent to Mt Oberon. The car park is full and there are cars parked on both sides of the road. The climb is obviously very popular. I did it 40 years ago, so I don’t really need to do it again on a cold misty day. Kerry graciously declined the option.
Back at the park, Kerry did the washing at the camp laundry as our water is being used carefully. Later we took our bag of plastic over to the rangers office. We suggested they put it in a jar to show people what one couple got in 15 minutes, They were fully supportive and thanked us but did not commit to anything. Jill (the lady who had already been collecting whom we met on the beach), had mentioned to the rangers already that perhaps a display could be arranged.
The evening we had take-away from the shop. Unfortunately 3 families came in and set up camp with their communal area right behind us. They had a number of screaming kids and clearly did not get the concept of a hushed conservation. It was a loud and boisterous night until well after 10.
Day 3 – Fri 15 Feb – at The Prom
A grey and misty dawn quickly began to evolve into a lovely day, although not warm enough to be a lovely summer’s day. But sunshine, calm winds, blue skies, blue water.
We had decided to do the Little Oberon Bay walk (#10 on the brochure), rated at 8.2km and 3 hours return. We thought we may only go as far as Norman Point, then see how we felt. As per the brochure, we took the trail between the Visitors Centre and Store, which took us over tea Tree shrouded sand hills, some on the steepish side. After a bit over a km, we came to a road and crossed that before quickly reaching the southern end of Norman Beach. There we realised that we could have easily just walked along the beach.
But as soon as we hit the beach we saw plastic – there were one to two pockets that were quickly full. But we also quickly explored the beach which looks just as lovely from the south side as it does from the north, especially on such a good day. We did spent some time admiring the view and wandering around the rocks, and picking up a bit more plastic – there was a lot at the beach entrance.
The walk out to Norman Point is very enjoyable, on a good track. A couple of hills but nothing serious. There are some great views points to the north as we travel, so lots more photos.
At the junction with the side track to the Point, we went down that track to have a look. Near the top, there are a few good viewing points on rocky outcrops just through a bit of bush.
The side track descends steeply and gets very rough as you go down. Kerry stopped about half way down, and I wished I had also. I got to “the end” which left me on a few rocks looking down about 50m to the water. The views here were not nearly as good as those from the rock platforms further up.
I measured the length of track going back up on my Garmin – it was 520m back up to the main track compared to the signposted 300m. I am not saying my Garmin is super accurate, but the difference is large. From there we walked back to Norman Beach as Kerrys crook toe was playing up, taking just a few more photos on the way – gorgeous country.
Back at the beach we went along the track rather than walking the beach, until we came to the road. We walked down that hoping it provided a shortcut through the camping areas to Mobi. But it did no such thing, so we walked right around the road until it was near the beach, then found our way back through what is a very large park. Our Gamins recorded about 10kms for the walk, one of our favourites.
In the afternoon I decided to do the Mt Osborn Summit Walk, marked as 6.8km on the brochure. Kerry opted out. I drove to Telegraph Saddle carpark, and again it was packed. I ended up parking on the narrow roadside about 100m down the hill. The second pic shows the climb.
I headed up. The track is actually a road all the way to the signal towers, with some good views now and then. But it is relentlessly going up and up and up. Not sure that this is completely unexpected though – it IS a climb to the top of the mountain….
At the signal tower, the pathway to the top is a set of narrow steps, winding its way to the summit. Not much room to pass those coming down but there is a handrail for safety.
The views from the top are truely magnificent, looking westwards in all directions. Tidal River Park is clearly visible as are all the islands we have caught glimpses of. It truely is majestic and the photos cannot do justice to the real thing. It was well worth the ascent. Still looks like a Sleeping Dragon there doesn’t it…
On the walk back down I caught up with and then walked with a couple of ladies, on my side of the age equation. They were really interesting, having both been born in England, but then living in many interesting countries before settling down, one in England and the other in Melbourne. They remain friends and travel to see each other and share holidays. They have hired a RV camper and are going to drive to Darwin vis Alice Springs. Good for them!
I got back to the Park to see Kerry helping a group of young women set up a tent for the first time. This was so funny. a couple of large 4wds rocked up behind us and about 8 early 20 something females popped out and started yelling to each other to help unload. This massive tent emerged, with various bags of goodies. Watching discreetly, I saw them quickly put together poles and get them into appropriate places. Unfortunately, there appeared to be bits missing and there weren’t enough people to hold it all together, so I offered some assistance. Apart from an extra pair of hands, I wasn’t much help though. Des came back part way through and helped too. Finally, I finally found a pole that hadn’t been extended. A huge sigh of relief and thank you all around.
Then we watched vehicle after vehicle arrive as the place started to fill for the weekend. We talked to a German couple next to us and they had been trying to book a powered site through the week but the Parks website told them there were no sites available. But we had seen 2 vacant sites through the week. They could only get a powered site for that night, and will have to move tomorrow.
That evening was really noisy, with so many people now established. If you want peace and quiet, don’t come here on a weekend in summer. It sounded like there were 3 seperate discos (yes, showing my age) going all at the same time, and there was so much boisterous behaviour. Still it all calmed down at about 10.30.
Day 4 – Sat 16 Feb – at The Prom
We packed up in the morning, leaving for Phillip Island, but on the way out we wanted to see the northern beaches around Darby River. I had checked with the rangers and there is plenty of space for Mobi at the carpark.
There were quite a few cars at the car park but a long vehicle section where we pulled in with Mobi. The park is just next to the bridge over the River.
The path to the beach is about a km, and is generally flat and level. It runs beside the River and, as the day is so calm, the reflections of the rock faces on the opposite bank are great.
The beach is lovely – what else do you expect down here? What is amazing is the unique red coloured sea-weed that lies across the beach giving it an awesome colour.
At the southern end of the beach is a rock face just next to a large sandhill – very striking.
At the northern end, there are massive sand hills. It is here that the River would meet the sea except it being so dry it can’t quite make it and a sand bar creates the lagoon like appearance of the River.
On the track back out, Kerry, who is in the lead, cries “snake”. About 4 metres ahead is a tiger snake on the track, perhaps about 1m long. Thankfully it quickly slips off the track and I get half a photo of it. Haven’t seen a Tiger Snake for a long time… Hopefully an even longer time before I see another one.
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