We had never been to the Warrumbungles and were really looking forward to our visit. We were blown away by the mountains of the National Park, with plugs and peaks in every direction – an amazing place. But we were very disappointed that the rain ruined our last day of walks. And the mice added to our decision of head home. We also really loved the Sandstone Caves, a very special place. We will be back.
We were at Coonabarabran on 7/8 May 2021.
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting There
Narrabri > Coonabarabran ~ 154kms
History
The Warrumbungles are the remnants of a large heavily eroded shield volcano which was active from 13 to 17 million years ago. The volcano is estimated to have been 1,000 metres high and 50 kilometres wide. It formed as volcanic explosions occurred over millions of years. The remaining complex rocky formations are what is left after millions of years of erosion.
The main features of the Warrumbungle mountains are a series of huge jagged outcrops in a roughly circular pattern, surrounded by hilly bush and woodland forest. Dykes, plugs and domes are common and mostly made from trachyte. The Grand High Tops is a section of the range where volcanic remnants are especially clustered.
A proposal to reserve the more scenic parts of the Warrumbungle Range as the Warrumbungle National Monument was first initiated by the National Parks and Primitive Areas Council in 1936. The area was first proclaimed as a reserve in 1953 of 3,360 hectares. In 1967 management of the park was signed over to the National Parks and Wildlife Service.
The construction of a network of walking tracks done by hand was headed by the first ranger, Carl Dow. The park was added to the list of the National Heritage in December 2006, in recognition of the park’s importance as an extensive and spectacular geomorphological site with bold volcanic landforms that are unrivalled anywhere else in Australia; for its unique values as a transition zone between the arid western and wetter coastal zones; and its significance as an important refugium in inland south-east Australia.
On 4 July 2016, the park was the first within Australia to be certified as a Dark Sky Park by the International Dark Sky Association.
Day 1 – To Coonabarabran
It’s a clear day, and a very good road down to Coonabarabran – it even had passing lanes.
Increasingly we saw more of the trees with leaves turning brilliant reds and yellows. There is a mass of them down one street as we arrive at Coonabarabran.
We checked in at the van park ($29/night), which was pretty good. The site was lovely and grassy, long drive-through, though a tad narrow. A few bright red trees dotted the park.
We went to the Tourist Office and then walked through the town. Some interesting buildings – we like the clock tower in the centre of town.
There was an interesting sundial – the time was spot on. Most towns we’ve been to around Australia have some interesting anomaly – this one was very clever.
We decided to go our and see the Sandstone Caves, although we had doubts about taking the 35km drive each way. We had never heard of the Caves and the brochure is not inspiring. We had read that the Sandstone Caves are not sign posted from the Highway at the request of the Aboriginal Elders. So we headed north from Coonabarabran (35km) on the Newell Highway and 3.7km beyond the Cusack Creek crossing, turned right onto a dirt road marked Yaminba Trail. I recall that is 10km north of the pottery place. After 1km this Trail took us to the car park. Quite a good dirt road in too.
The brochure states that the caves are situated around a large sandstone outcrop, and are a series of cathedral type caves and overhangs displaying an array of interesting colours and shapes. They have been formed over tens of thousands of years through the weathering of the fragile sandstone.
This site is a special place for the Gamilaroi people at the edge of the Pilliga Forest. Grinding grooves, rock art and other Aboriginal sites provide a strong link with their traditional times. Visitors are asked to please be respectful at the site and refrain from touching the rock art and engravings. Photography is permitted, however visitors are requested not to use flash photography.
You can do a self guided walk around the site or you can book a guided tour at Pilliga Forest Discovery Centre in Baradine.
The walk around the caves is an easy 1.7km. The first part is through a forested area, until you get to the sandstone outcrop. Then the caves start to appear and they are amazing. The colours and formations are brilliant.
One cave is protected by mesh – this is where the grinding groves are clearly visible. We did not see much rock art. The colours are truly amazing in the caverns and caves. This place is very spiritual.
More pics.
About half way around we came to a lookout across the Pilliga Forest.
The caves got increasingly beautiful as we walked around. Just as you think you have seen the best, something more stunning lies around the corner. One reminds me of Gaudi’s cathedral, -wonderful shapes, “windows” and unexpected views
Some wonderful colours and shapes.
Then we came to a section of deeper caves with interlinking holes, wave formations and amazing colours. Really, really lovely.
What an amazing place. The trail loops around the sandstone outcrop to the car park. We headed back to the van.
Day 2 – 8th May 2021 – Warrumbungle NP
It is a good road and only a 33km drive to the Visitors Information Centre of the NP, and it is a pleasant drive with so many the coloured trees around and the occasional plug.
We passed Siding Springs but did not go up. You can only get into the facility on a tour.
Our first stop in the Park is Whitegum Lookout. This is perched on the eastern rim of the park and overlooks the entire range – a great place to start. It is a short walk – only 1km return – and is paved. Just before the lookout is an excellent display on how the flora of the park recover from severe fires. There are photos of this in the photos for this post – click here.
From there we went up to the Visitors Centre and Camp Blackman and got information on the various options.
We had a look around Camp Blackmen. This looked brilliant with powered van sites, lots of people in, and we will definitely be looking to stay here next time. Great views.
The Information Centre has an excellent brochure on shorter walks in the NP – really clear and useful. The first walk starts right at the Centre – the Gurianawa Track, an easy walk of 1km circuit with good views on the way. We went around anticlockwise as advised. Even saw a couple of ‘roos.
Then is was up to Burbie Canyon, the car park is 400m past the Wambelong Campsite. The standard walk is a very easy 2km return into the small gorge and back. But we elected to take this as a circuit walk from the carpark, along Burbie Creek through the canyon, then left on the Burbie Fire Trail which takes you to the Split Rock Carpark opposite the Wambelong Campsite. Then there is a 400km walk back to collect your car at the Burbie Canyon carpark. This makes it a 4km walk. All reasonably easy apart from one short steep bit near the end.
The first part of the walk is a walk through woodlands to the start of the canyon. It is an easy walk on a dirt trail, with occasional steps to assist. Great to see the native bees in abundance. The bees are the main sound we hear – very loud and obviously very happy pollinating the flowers.
The creek is normally dry but was gurgling along nicely on that day. As we got into the canyon we saw 4 or 5 goats.
It is a small canyon with interesting rock formations – quite a pretty walk. The trail continues through more red gums.
We turned left at the Burbie Fire Trail, which is a pretty good track with an occasional rough spot. There is one quite steep hill, but not really a hard walk.
After a while we started to see Belougery Split Rock on our right – increasingly impressive.
We came to the start of the Belougery Split Rock circuit, a very steep and tough trail of 4.6km. I was sorely tempted to do that walk but as we had forgotten to take water, we decided that I would come back tomorrow and do the walk. It was out of the question for Kerry.
Soon after we passed the exit of the Circuit and were soon at the carpark and then across to Wambelong Campsite. I walked back to get the car along a very pretty river, and we had lunch.
The Wambelong Nature Trail was our next stop. The trail starts at the Canyon Picnic Area – turn left on the road to Camp Blackman. The Trail is only 1km with a couple of creek crossings and a steep climb towards the end. At first it is not clear exactly where the trail starts, but you go down to the river and follow that to the left.
The first section of the Trail follows the river which was flowing nicely through a canyon of volcanic walls. Its very pretty. We had to rock hop across the river a couple of times.
As we leave the river was see that there is a nest box project underway. Many trees were lost in the awful 2013 bushfires taking out many very old trees that had hollows used by birds, mammals and reptiles for shelter. These may have taken more than 200 years to form. A total of 400 nest boxes have been installed across the park. Good to see that native animal conservation is taken so seriously.
We came to the climb to the top of the outcrop and it was steep, but not long. There were steps for most of the way. There are some great views from the top, including Mt Siding.
It was then a short walk back to the car. After that we decided that was enough for day one. I was going to return the next day to do the Spiry View walk and the Belougery Split Rock Circuit – really looking forward those. And there was also a lovely drive out.
Day 3 – 9th May 2021 – rain, mice and home
We could hear the rain start through the night. Daylight saw steady rainfall from a low grey sky.
As well Kerry had some visitors. 5am, I was sitting outside the van, winter dressing gown, track pants and ugg boots, when I felt something push against the top of my boots. I moved my feet and things went scampering. OH NO I thought, the mice have finally caught up with us. And one had the temerity to leave a little “gift” on the toe of my boot!!! I bent down to get all our shoes off the ground, shaking them. None in mine, but as I pulled the socks out of Des’s shoes, mice went flying in all directions.
So we called it a day. Packed up everything and drove through to Sydney. We will have to go back for this additional walks.
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-NP