The Gibb River Road is quintessential “going around”, or “doing the big lap”. In one way or another it is a place where you must go to help gain your “going around” stripes. And it is the gorges that are the essence of the GRR. We had been to El Questro in the east and Mitchell Falls (by air), and went in to see the famed western gorges via the Leopold Downs Rd from Fitzroy Crossing. Fortunately there are several of them along the 220km section of the Gibb from the Leopold Downs Rd junction and the turnoff to Mt Elizabeth Station. We managed to get to 6 of them, but unfortunately could not get to Manning Gorge. We got to Windjana, Bells, Adcock, Galvans, and Warla & Wunnumurra on Mt Elizabeth Station. They all have their individual beauty and their own appeal, and are all well and truly worth the effort. But you will need at least a day to clean out the car and trailer (if you take one) when you get back to civilisation – the dust is incredible.
We visited these gorges between 13 -15 July 2018
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting There
Windjana Camp > Gibb River Road junction (20km) > Silent Grove (107km) > Adcock Gorge (148km) > Galvans Gorge (24kms) > Mt Barnett Roadhouse (13kms) > Mt Elizabeth Station (67kms) – total ~ 369kms
The Gibb River Road
The country of the central Kimberley to the coast was an area rich in food sources and abundant fresh water, and was well understood and cherished by the Aboriginal people who lived there. They developed a rich cultural life, which is reflected in their art seen in rock outcrops and caves.
European contact with the Aboriginal people occurred from the 1830s onwards. However, it was not until 1898 that settlers penetrated the King Leopold Ranges and opened up the area for pastoralism. Frank Hann, gold prospector and explorer, was the first to describe the southern area of the Kimberley plateau. Many of the features of the area bear the names he gave them in 1898. These include the Hand River, Mt Elizabeth, named after his mother, Bell Creek, after Dr Bell of Derby and Adcock Creek, after a Derby storekeeper. The Blythe family were early pastoralists who took up Mt House Station and built their homestead on the banks of Adcock Creek a tributary of the Fitzroy River.
Provisioning of the pastoral leases in the early years of the 20th century was by bullock and donkey. After the Second World War, the pastoralists, investigated the slaughter of cattle at the Glenroy Meat Works, on the Mt House lease, and flying the frozen carcasses to market. This was the famous Air Beef Scheme. In the 1960s road construction began on the southern section for a Beef Road to transport cattle to Derby. This was the original Gibb River Road, so named as it was constructed from Gibb River Station to Derby. The northern section of the road remained in the hands of the local authority. The lack of major pastoral leases and funding meant that the northern section was not as well constructed and maintained. In 1996 Main Roads took over responsibility for the whole length of the road.
Day 0 – 13 July – Bells Gorge
We took a while to pack up all the camping stuff at Windjana Camp – really not enjoying this side of things. Our plan is to go to Bells Gorge, then to the Alcock and Galvans Gorges along the Gibb R. Road (GRR), and then go to Mt Elizabeth Station for a couple of nights. On the way back we would stay at the Mt Barnett Roadhouse and go see the Manning Gorge.
We got away by about 8:30 but we don’t have a long way to go today. It’s only 20km to the GRR, and it feel strange to finally be on this infamous road after nearly 12 months of planning to get to this icon of “the big lap”. However, the rubbish disposal point shown on the map is not there – we have no problems with taking our rubbish with us, but there has to be a disposal facility in remote areas.
Very soon after turning onto the GRR, we crossed the Lennard River, which looks lovely.
We must say we were quite impressed with GRR – a wide dirt road with a pretty good surface at the time we were there. We were lucky.
Not so impressed with most of the drivers coming the other way who just don’t slow down as they approach. We think we have another chip on the windscreen that will need attention – we already have repaired 2 – plus other more minor chips. These stupid urban cowboys who have no idea, and come barrelling along at near 100kph on a dirt road, slowing for nobody, and causing so many problems for others. There should be regular and large signs all along the road saying “slow down for approaching traffic”.
We quickly came to Queen Victorias Head – at a pass through a ridge line. it is a prominent high rock next to the road and the resemblance is quite clear.
We did not go into Lennard River Gorge as we had read it was difficult to get into, and with my knee still a problem after the fall in Tunnel Creek, particularly walking downhill or clamouring over boulders, we drove right past. Driving through the Leopold Ranges Conservation Park was really good. A marvellous contrast of ridges, hills and mountainous escarpments provided a really pleasant drive. The 2 lookouts presents great views.
The drive continued and we were surprised when a road train overtook us. It was a bit scary.
We decided to go on to Imintji Roadhouse before going up to Silent Grove and Bells Gorge – it is only another 8km past the junction. The Imintji community roadhouse and art gallery, is run by the local aboriginal community. Two kms before the Roadhouse we saw a rubbish disposal point of to our right – hooray! But as we turned in we saw that someone had left the compound gate open and there were about 10 brahman cattle in there eating the rubbish. What a mess. We noted that there were all bulls which we thought was very unusual to have them together.
At Imintji we bought lunch to take with us and a small gas bottle for our little day pack burner. Surprisingly my phone got reception on Optus.
Then we went back to the turnoff to Silent Grove and the iconic Bells Gorge. The Gorge is about 30 km off the GRR.
Bells Gorge is reputably the most famous Kimberley gorge and the most beautiful, so we were really looking forward to this. Because of that reputation, Bells Gorge is by far the busiest gorge along the GRR. So much so, we have heard, that during the main season you may have to wait in line to access it. We had also heard that getting in to Silent Grove could be a problem as it gets packed. But we had booked our site and quickly wanted to get the tent up and then get out to the Gorge.
We start to set up our tent when a woman came rushing over to us. “I am the rangers wife, “ she said, “and I have to tell you that this area is reserved for tour groups. You will have to move.” Luckily we had only just started unpacking.
It is only 10km to the Gorge and the car park is pretty busy. We won’t have this place to ourselves. The track is initially down a trail that got rockier as we got closer to the bottom. We crossed the creek (easy) and walked along a rocky creek bed.
Then we walked out onto the rock platforms that forms the upper gorge and pool. In front of us is the pool and we can see where the creek goes over the edge. In fact there a few people sitting right at the edge. Hope I can get at least one photo when they move, if they move. Behind that to our right is the pool and the upper river all nestled in an area surrounded by sandstone. To our left the sandstone platform steadily rises and that is where we will get to see the falls front on.
We walked around taking all in. There are plenty of people there but it’s a large area so it did not seem too crowded. The waterfall is cascading down the perfectly U-shaped cliffs, in a number of tiers, into a deep pool below. There are people in the lower pool which looks brilliant, but after watching a few people take the track I thought it was one step too far for my crook knee. Instead we got changed and got into the upper pool. It is quite chilly getting in, but so refreshing after our walk in.
I had joined the group of women at the edge, even made a bad joke about living on the edge, and wormed my way over to the main falls. It was a spectacular view, the lower gorge is quite stunning.
I initially only sat on the side dangling my legs in, but with Des up at the edge, I thought I had better take the plunge and get over there as well. It was bloody freezing. But really nice. There was a ledge right at the edge and nice in the sun. The view up here is amazing.
I really enjoyed the pool, though it a mostly shallow but with a couple of deep areas. But this is more about lying in the water soaking up the beauty and the atmosphere. Eventually the group of ladies did leave the edge and I got some pics. Beautiful place.
We finally got changed and went back to camp to complete the set up. I got the led lights set up which work really well. The light strips are magnetised and stick to the tent poles. We can vary the brightness and swap to a yellow to minimise bug attraction.
Tonight it was a hamburgers for dinner, with extra lettuce to increase the health rating. The only thing missing from our evening was a fire – it was quite cold.
Just beyond us was the area reserved for tour groups – the one we got chased out of when we first arrived. There were 2 fairly large groups in. Then one of the groups started playing a video as the evening’s entertainment. It was a documentary and we could hear it quite distinctly as a loud murmuring in the background. It was still going as we went to bed around 9 to get warm. Then a singer with a guitar started, and he was not good. We felt like going out there to ask them to give us a break, but we were too warm in bed. The name of this camp is Silent Grove – what a joke.
Day 1 -14 July – Adcock, Galvans and Mt Elizabeth Station
It was another cold night and morning. We got away at about 8 – packing up is getting tedious. So much easier in a van. We stopped at Imintji Roadhouse to send an urgent email but it did not work for some reason.
The GRR turned a bit rougher and narrower as we moved through some flat country with stunted trees. Then we were driving next to a lovely ridge with sandstone cliffs at the top. These are common up this way. Nearing the turnoff to Adcock Gorge, there is a good stretch of bitumen.
The track into Adcock Gorge is quite good, although stoney in places. However, near the end it deteriorated markedly, with the last stretch very rocky and rough. We walked the last 400m, parking just above the water crossing. We arrived there at the the same time as a French couple with their twenty something daughter – we followed them in. We passed a couple of lovely pools with many water lilies – very pretty.
There was a family already there when we arrived at the Gorge with a couple of young kids. It is very pretty and there is a large pool with a trickling waterfall. The problem is that there not many access points to the pool. The family had commandeered the main one, which was quite small, so we walked up towards the area where the French family were.
“Des, don’t look now, but the girl is going in topless,” Kerry said to me. So what does a bloke do – has a look, of course, and sure enough, she was topless. Which means that we can’t really go over there to get into the pool. as the area is so small it would be quite intimate. In the end we did not swim but simply enjoyed the scenery and atmosphere.
From there we made off to Galvans Gorge, passing the “Over the Range Tyre and Mechanical” place – this fellow is so popular and busy, and we heard nothing but good stories of his work. He has saved many a holiday from disaster.
The GRR was now showing its corrugations, and the landscape is flatter and far less interesting. Until we come to the Phillips Range Lookout and realise we had been travelling on a plateau and were now descending to the plains. The lookout is not great as the sun is straight into our faces, and there are many trees limiting the view.
At the bottom of the descent we come to the turnoff to Galvans Gorge, which also had a bitumen section. The carpark is next to the road and the walk in is about a km and quite pleasant.
Near the gorge there are a couple of lily ponds, one really lovely twirling green plant we have not seen before.
Then we came to the waterfall and pool – really beautiful. The fall was working quite well and the pool was a limpid green surrounded by sandstone and trees. So, so pretty. I was in for a swim very quickly. Chilly but wonderful. This was one of our favourite places. There were actually a lot of people in the water and wandering around, but it didn’t seem crowded as it was such a large area. The end of the gorge where the pool is located, is like an amphitheatre – quite spectacular with all the ferns hanging off the rock walls.
On the way to Mt Elizabeth Station, we called into the Mt Barnett Roadhouse to see what they had (no alcohol so our stock up strategy is paying off). We quickly pushed on for Mt Elizabeth Station – the turnoff is only about 40km from the Roadhouse.
The track in is pretty good and we are soon checking in. We think it was the owner who met us and pointed out things to us including providing the Station mud map for tourists. She did warn us that the track out to the Gorge would take some time to get there. We could virtually camp anywhere and selected a spot under the trees. We had a quick lunch as we set up camp.
The facilities were very poor. Only 2 toilets, 2 toilet/showers and 2 showers. The are also not in good condition and not very clean. I was very disappointed with the campsite – not a blade of grass to be seen and the showers were filthy. This place cost us $103 to stay for 2 nights (including an unspecified amount for entry to the gorge). They ought to be ashamed of themselves. We talked to a Swiss couple who were also quite disgusted with the facilities given them amount of money they paid to stay there. However, at least the showers were hot and the gorges lovely.
That afternoon, we went to see the Warla swimming hole and gorge, as recommended by the owner. The mud map is a bit deceptive as it looks quite close to the homestead – in fact is it a 20km plus drive. But the driving is easy. When we got there, there were 3 other vehicles there, and we could hear a drone.
The area is lovely with a massive long beach alongside a slowly moving river, with lots of pools in the upper area and much more of a gorge further down.
We were disappointed to find that the pools were quite shallow – you could sit in the refreshing water but could not quite get fully immersed. Fortunately, I had bought our drone and this was one of the few opportunities we have had to use it. So we got it going, flying down over the gorge as well as over the pools. The drone work, still learning, can be seen on the video – click here.
There was another couple there as well and the woman said that her boyfriend had just gone off to get his drone, seeing as there were 2 already there. He was actually quite experienced and flew his drone well out of sight using the screen to keep tabs on where it was.
On the way back to the camp, we collected a lot of firewood, throwing that up onto the roof rack which was almost empty.
We got out our fire-pit for its first venture so far in our 5 month journey. There have been few places where a fire was allowed, or else a fire pit was provided, and we had not free camped. But that night was the night, and it worked really well. As the nights were quite cold, it made a big difference. What a difference having a fire makes – so cozy and staring into the flames is mesmerising.
Day 2 – 15 July – Wunnumurra Gorge
Another cold night and morning, even with tracksuit pants and a woollen t-shirt on. We are here all day, with the Wunnumurra Gorge on the Station our only destination, so we relaxed and I cooked eggs and toast and mushrooms (for me) for breakfast.
We drove off for the Gorge aware that the track there could be difficult. But we were nowhere near prepared for just how difficult it would be. So many rock infested sections, some steeply downhill with jagged rocks on the inside curves of a corner – in fact so many jagged rocks everywhere.
We took it slowly and in places stopped to fill in an awkward hole. A couple of times I got out to guide Kerry through. We hit hard a couple of times. Many of the tracks are harder that anything we tried at out 4WD training course. A couple of snippets of our drive are included in the video, but this was an awful 10km of track to offer tourists. To see the video, click here.
This is, we reckon, pretty disgraceful. We were not warned about how bad the track was, in fact encouraged to go there and indeed, charged for the privilege; nor cautioned in any way to think about it. We saw a Ford Territory parked on the side of the track well inside the area I would say was totally unsuitable for that vehicle. The driver should have been given enough information to make an informed decision on going there or not before he got in too deep.
But when we got there, the Gorge was outstanding – really beautiful. We walked alongside the river past some very pretty rock pools and beaches.
We came out on a large rock platform at the top off the waterfall, where the creek tumbled over the edge. Below was a large and lovely rock pool with the gorge surrounding it in a semi-circle.
There are 2 ladders secured to the rock face to help get us down to the rock pool. The sun was coming from behind the waterfall, so the initial photos are difficult.
The pool looks so inviting I am quickly in there for a great swim over to the base of the falls. Kerry took a more modest approach choosing to go in up to her knees. I actually waded in up to my waist – freezing, but lovely and fresh and clear. I didn’t last long in the water though… fairly quickly resting my backside on the sand and chatting to a couple of women.
Such a beautiful place – I swam, we talked to other people, and really loved it.
The we faced the trip back – my turn to drive. Awful drive but The Cruiser took it all in its stride. The video shows another car that followed us up this slope – click here.
Love that car! At one point another car came in and we were in a very tight place. He got about halfway off the track, though I thought he could have done more, so I had to swing in a bit further and there some skinny trees growing there. Unfortunately these scratched The Cruiser. Oh no! I spent a fair bit of time out of the car guiding Des around corners and up inclines and re-placed some rocks to make life easier.
We got some more firewood and back at camp got the fire going at about 5:00pm. We are using a drum style fire/bbq rather than our fire pit as we want to get away early, and it was packed away in the roofrack. We have changed plans again. Instead of going to Mt Barnett R and stay the night, we will get away early (if that is possible) and go to see the Manning Gorge, then go straight back to Fitzroy Crossing and our beloved Mobi.
The night we talked to a Swiss couple who are here for a 6 month trip. They do this every 3 years or so. As Jenny, our wonderful daughter in law is Swiss, and we had been there many times, we had much to talk about. They were quite disgusted with the cost of Mt Elizabeth Station compared to the facilities – not at all what they expected.
Again we were in bed early, and we tell ourselves that we are only doing this to keep warm.
Day 3 -16 July
Overnight we had another change pf plans – we will reluctantly skip Manning Gorge, one of the best we have been told, and go straight back to Fitzroy Crossing. I read that the walk to the Gorge takes about an hour each way. Given our experience on other gorges, I doubted if my still sore but healing knee would be up for 2 hours of tracking.
As well, we, and particularly Kerry, are really fed up with the camping side of things – the daily packing and unpacking and getting on and off the roof rack, the dirt and dust, tripping over guy ropes, etc. After only 4 nights, enough is enough!
And finally, we have seen so many gorges that we struggle to remember them. We ask each other to describe a gorge we went to and we often can’t do that. We actually remember them all, but recalling which is which is the hard part.
So we pack up and go straight to Imitintji Store for fuel – at $2.05/l (Mt Barnett’s price was the same). Back at Fitzroy Crossing at about 1.30pm, where I took great pleasure in washing The Cruiser – it was covered in caked on dust. The next day we needed to get everything out, and throughly clean out the inside, to get rid of the relentless dust. We even took everything off the roof racks and washed the bag.
To see photos for this post, click here
To see our video for this post, click here