We had been to Tamworth many times and the standard things do, mostly C&W music related, had already been done. We are not lovers of C&W. But we had never really had a good look around the city and particularly to check out the wonderful historic houses for which the city is famed. So that was the primary focus of our time there.
Getting There
We were in Tamworth on the 20 to 23 December 2021
Mudgee > Coolah > Tamworth (284kms)
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
History
The areas around the current Tamworth City belong to the Gomeroi people (other names include Kamilaroi, Kamilaraay, Gamilaraay and many more) whose custodianship dates back 40,000 years. The Gomeroi name for the area is thought to have been Calala, meaning ‘place of battle’. As with many First Nations communities, the oral histories and traditions of the Gomeroi people were fragmented after British invasion. Many of the stories are shared through song, dance and the passing down of knowledge from elders. Some of their history is recorded on rock art that is preserved across the region.
The Nation was made up of many smaller family groups who had their own parcels of land to sustain them. The Gamilaroi were hunters and agriculturalists with a band-level social organisation. Men typically hunted, cleaned, and prepared the game for cooking. Women did the actual cooking, in addition to fishing and farming. Individual Kamilaroi did not eat animals that were their totems.
The Kamilaroi were regarded as fierce warriors and there is ample evidence of intertribal warfare. The Northern Gamilaroi people have a strong cultural connection with the Bigambul people, and the tribes met regularly for joint ceremonies at Boobera Lagoon near the present-day town of Goondiwindi.
The first British visitors to the Peel Valley were John Oxley and his exploration party in 1818. Oxley could see the beauty and potential of the region, claiming, “No place in this world can afford more advantages to the industrious settler than this extensive vale.”
By the mid-1830s the settlement had progressed under the British Australian Agricultural Company at which time approval for the name Tamworth was given to develop the town next to the Peel River. Tamworth officially appeared on the map in 1837 and by 1850 was proclaimed a town with a population of about 250 people.
Tamworth has long been a progressive and innovative town, exemplified in November 1888 when it became the first town or city in Australia to use electric street lighting. This tradition of ingenuity and innovation continued, with numerous industries flourishing in the region including milling, brewing, mining, agriculture, aeronautical engineering and tourism.
The first ever Tamworth Country Music Festival took place in 1973 and is now an internationally renowned event attracting over 300,000 visitors each year.
The Tamworth Region is today a thriving economic and cultural hub of North Western NSW, home to over 60,000 people and thousands of businesses spanning health care, social assistance, manufacturing, construction, accommodation, food services and agriculture.
Day 1 – Monday 20 December – To Tamworth
It was a very rough and bumpy drive through a variety of back roads. Some even had warning sighs for the deteriorated surface of the road. It was a matter of slowing down and keeping an eye out for the worst areas. Despite the rocky ride, it is very pretty countryside that we drive through – rolling farmlands into the distance, with the occasional wooded hill and exposed rocks.
Got a photo of a good looking railway station – maybe Coolah?
The Van park is pretty good, at the end of the riverfront. Our site was a bit of a pain as at the road end, there is a slope to the road. This meant that we were stretching our height on the jockey wheel to get the van off the towball, even with timber chocks. We only just made it. Sites are spacious and on concrete so we did not use our groundsheet. The facilities were good, but a bit old.
As usual we asked if there was a drive through site and was told no. But when we got to our site there was a plastic chain at the rear of the site and a flat grassed area behind that. We could have unhitched the chain and driven through. But we were ok and got the van in without a hitch (so as to speak).
Day 2 – Tuesday 21 December – Buildings and Marsupial Park
It was a fine morning. For my morning walk I went around the town generally keeping to the streets on the hill side of the town. I knew there was a walk up to the lookout atop the hill as I had done it before, years ago, but could not find it. Still, I started to appreciate the extent of heritage homes that were in this town.
Later we drove to an area where I had seen some lovely homes and walked around taking photos. There are some beautiful streetscapes. There are some very well cared for and beautiful gardens here.
Later in the morning we drove around to look at the town and find the way to Oxley Lookout. It was an enjoyable drive and we ended up at the Marsupial Park, which we learnt later was half way between the Lookout and the Botanical Gardens on a walking track. We decided to check out the Park despite the fact that is was nearing midday. What marsupial worth a grain of salt would be out in the midday sun?
Surprisingly, entrance was free, through a gate system. We wandered around for a while but saw few marsupials. Loads of birds though – there is large free-flight section.
But we felt the Park was a bit old and in need of refurbishment in many ways. As it was a hot day and close to midday, we did not stay long.
We spent the afternoon relaxing.
Day 3 – Wednesday 22 December – Buildings and botanical gardens
I found my way to the Oxley Lookout on my morning walk. I walked up Hill St, which took me to the steep road to the lookout. It’s about 1km to the top. The area at the top is quite a large flat area of carparks and lookouts. The views over the city are excellent at putting the place into perspective – it’s a big city over a large area, with the Peel River bisecting it.
I walked back to where the road starts its descent and was studying a map of the area, looking for other walks, when a woman walked past me and took a narrow path to the left. I decided to follow her. I quickly realised I was on a trail down to the Marsupial Park and after a straight descent got to the Park carpark quite quickly.
I had decided to walk out along the road in, but then thought maybe I could find a walkway to the Botanical Gardens. Sure enough, I went into the Park and indeed there were a few more marsupials awake than last time, and I found a walk to the Gardens via a lookout.
Before long I came to the gate into the gardens and walked through to the entrance.
It was then a long walk back to the van park, but well worth the exercise. On the walk back I did some hunting for some more lovely homes, and there are plenty.
Also a large school.
Later that morning we drove to Victoria Park and Botanical Gardens. We thought the Gardens were quite disappointing. The main problem is that none of the water features were working so there was stagnant water everywhere and many areas needed a really good weed.
We started with the Japanese section which was OK, but in need of further development.
A part of the area was twinned with a NZ city – can’t remember which one. I reckon anyone from there who came to Tamworth to see the garden would be very disappointed.
It was disappointing to see the rotundas were just cheap pressed metal – absolutely no character.
We were looking forward to the Indigenous Garden but this was a real let down. The information panels were either in the wrong place or the plant had been removed – they didn’t help at all. And it was really overgrown – and we were very conscious of the snake threat. We did not stay there for long, unfortunately.
The areas up where they hold weddings or funerals were OK, although it would be good if the trees and shrubs were labelled. It is a botanical gardens after all.
Outside we saw the miniature railway, which was not operating that day. But it looked good.
We then drove up to Oxley Lookout to show Kerry the excellent views and look at the plants.
Next up we went to see the lovely old railway station. Looks great, but there are only 2 trains a day. A sad sign of the times.
We drove to the mall areas of the city centre to see some of the civic buildings.
Day 4 – Thursday 23 December
It was a fine day, and my morning walk took me up to Oxley Lookout again. From there I walked to the river (Peel River) at the western end of town. I wanted to go through at the river foreshore which looked very interesting.
A pathway runs the length of the riverside – appears to go quite a way. The foreshore is a mix of open space, Anzac memorials and playgrounds. It is excellent, especially the playgrounds – some of the best we have come across.It was all set out brilliantly and there were plenty of kids having a great time.
I also liked the understated war memorial. Simple but effective.
The Peel River looked a bit of a mess in places – lots of weed infestation and toppled over trees.
We then spent time catching up on things, reading and relaxing. Later on in the afternoon a neighbour told us that a market was set up in the river foreshore. So we walked along the pathway until we saw several stalls set up. We would have loved to buy some of the chutneys or honey, but we had so many of these already. You really have to watch your storage in a caravan. But we got some caramel tarts – which were quite delicious.
To see photos from this post, click here.