Streaky Bay

We really, really loved Streaky Bay – now one of our favourite places. Our van site was right on the beach, the town had a really good feel about it, and there was so much to do. It really caught us by surprise and we will have to return – definitely when the weather is warmer. As an extra bonus our friends Lillian and Jon were also there for a few nights.

We stayed at Streaky Bay on 21, 22, 23, 24 October 2018

Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia

Getting There

Ceduna > Streaky Bay ~ 111kms

History

Aboriginal people have populated Eyre Peninsula for many thousands of years, from the desert dwellers in the far west of the Peninsula to the coastal inhabitants. There are many dreaming stories about the development of the culture, unique geology and wildlife; this oral history has been passed down through many generations. The Wirungu people have been the traditional custodians of the land around Streaky Bay for tens of thousands of years.

Streaky Bay was first sighted by Europeans in 1627, by the Dutchman Peter Nuyts from the ship Golden Zeepard. Nearly two centuries later in 1802, Matthew Flinders sailed into and named Streaky Bay whilst examining the SA coast in the Investigator. He named it because of the streaks in the water across the bay (caused by the reflection of light and seaweed).

In 1839 Edward John Eyre established a camp about 3km from Streaky Bay, known as ‘Cooeyanna’ (Eyre’s Waterhole). In his travels, Eyre made contact with Aboriginal peoples including the Wirungu.

From 1850 to 1860 a whaling station operated near Point Brown. It is believed that these whalers were the first non-indigenous people to remain in the area for any length of time. The country around Streaky Bay was taken up by pastoralists from 1854 onward. As these lands were opened up, the establishment of Streaky Bay as a township became a necessity.

With the influx of colonial settlers, from as early as 1794, conflicts arose resulting in mass killings of First Nation people. These were first carried out by British soldiers, then by police and settlers – often acting together – and later by native police, working under the command of white officers.

In the 1870s a small oyster factory was established at Streaky Bay to can oysters for export (Smoke House Bay).

Streaky Bay was originally named Flinders, but in 1940, after continued local usage, the name of the town was officially changed.

Today Streaky Bay is a thriving holiday destination. The town’s population is 1,150, but this grows massively over summer.

Day 1 – Sun 21 Oct – to Streaky Bay

We left the van park a bit later than normal (a bit after 9) as we were not travelling far. We drove through mostly agricultural lands.

We called in to Smoky Bay on the journey south – it is not far off the Flinders Hwy. We pulled up next to a van park and walked along the beach. I walked to the end of the Jetty while Kerry collected lots of large oyster shells and found bits of rope and a little rubbish. But surprisingly, there was not much plastic rubbish here. It is quite a small town – don’t know what you would do here except fish. Great turning area in the car park and a fully meshed pool.

We continued on to Streaky Bay, passing through lots of golden fields. It seems like every piece of land is under lucerne.

At the van park we checked in after 11, and got a great spot right on the waterfront – only steps to the beach. Kerry backed Mobi in with my directions, and we had to use levellers. It is a beautiful spot, the only problem being that the ground is as hard a concrete so I suffered 4 or 5 bent pegs trying to secure things down.

We drove into town, which has some lovely buildings, one being “The Institute” built in about 1887. Another was St Canute catholic church. There is also the lovely old pub.

We walked to the waterfront, on a good beach, and then out on the pier, where there was a big swimming baths meshed off to one side. A few kids were swimming – must be freezing. A man fishing told Kerry that he had caught a gummy shark in the pool. He released it outside the pool.

After getting a few things at IGA, we went back to Mobi. The park is a great place to relax, take photos. There are pelicans everywhere and the Bay is like a millpond. We could really chill out here for quite a while. Kerry found some more lovely oyster shells – she will do something creative with these when we get home. These shells have such a wondrous gleam to them – I’ll find something to do with them.

To see photos around Streaky Bay town, click here

Day 2 – Mon 22 Oct – Bauer Loop

The Cape Bauer Loop is a 39 kilometre coastal scenic drive to the north west of Streaky Bay. Cape Bauer is a limestone headland that marks the northernmost point of Corvisart Bay. The eastern side falls away to the sheltered waters of the Gibson Peninsula coastal wetlands, while beautiful beaches stretch southwards.

We drove out around the Bay through agricultural lands dominated by lucerne hay – fields of gold. The bitumen road gave way to a good dirt road for the loop. We stopped at Moors Boat Ramp and there were a gang of pelicans just watching and waiting. Amazing birds.

We continued around the Loop, and came to the wetland areas that characterise The Spit, with rocky inlets and small beaches and swamplands. There is also an unnamed beach and headland nearby. Beautiful colours in the water.

We came to a large headland and walked towards the top. We could not see a name for this one – to the east of Cape Bauer. We could see the Cape further along. Great views.

Cape Bauer has some stunning views of high and fragmented cliffs, rocky outcrops and islands and heaving seas. Lovely place – check out monster face below. 3rd photo below – Looks like an Orc from Lord of the Rings.

From there is was a short drive around to Whistling Rocks and the Blowholes. On the day we were there the seas were awesome which made this a brilliant experience. There is a timber stairway/walkway down to a viewing platform and we could hear the “whistle” of the rocks – more like a whoosh – from the top of the stairs. When we got to the platform we could see that the noise came from a number of holes. Throughout the Eyre Peninsula, there are naturally occurring vertical pipes in the limestone. The “whistling” sound is caused by waves breaking at the base of these pipes and forcing air and seawater upwards. Whoosh!

The whoosh and blowhole is generated by waves breaking into a small curved bay, with a rock platform at the base. When we were there the seas were awesome, with waves being deflected almost to the top of the cliff, and then bouncing back to hit an incoming wave on the other side. There was white water everywhere and the noise was awesome. Check these waves out in our video – click here.

Immediately below the platform are the blowholes, and we were so lucky that they were working. The water comes out more of a thick burst of mist rather than a water spout. Very impressive and we did get wet. An awesome place.

Further back is another platform and initially we were puzzled as to why is is there and the cliffs are not that special there. But then Kerry turned around and saw a number of holes in the limestone. These are called ???

We continued around the Loop to Haleys Beach, only 2kms on from Whistling Rocks. This is another viewing platform providing great views over a windswept surf. You can descend to the beach via a staircase of more than 100 steps – although tempted, we did not venture down.

After Hally’s Beach, the Cape Bauer Road turned inland to cross the peninsula back to Streaky Bay. We passed more lucerne fields and some lovely flowers we stopped to look at, and we also saw some beautiful cloud formations.

It really did feel good to get back to the van park and enjoy our waterfront position. Lillian and Jon had arrived so we had drinks and a catch up with then. This is about the 7th or 8th time we have met up on the road, which has been great.

To see photos on the Cape Bauer Loop, click here

Day 3 – Tue 23 Oct – Point Labatt

Another cold windy day.

We travelled south about 50kms to see the sea-lions at Point Labatt CP. This is a critically important Park. The sea-lions are found only in Australia and are one of our most endangered marine mammals and rarest seals. Point Labatt is the only permanent colony on the mainland where the pups can be seen learning to swim, play and resting on the beach. It is also one of the few places in and around Australia where they are protected from land predators, and which provides a safe environment for the pups to develop.

Our drive down took us firstly through Sceale Bay CP, a large lake fringed by sand dunes and coastal scrub. Behind that was Surfers Beach, a long sandy bay with a rocky headland at its southern end.

We called into Sceals Bay township – it has the best looking toilet we have seen. From there the road is dirt, but pretty good.

We then drove down to Searcy Bay, another large waterway.

Baird Bay is a massive ocean inlet and we drove alongside that for 5kms or so.

Further along we saw a grader smoothing out the dirt road for us – it was actually pretty good anyway.

Point Labatt is a great place – a viewing platform perched out over the cliff top. We were a long up above the sea-lions but with the zoom lens in the camera and Kerry using the binoculars, we soon saw more than a dozen sea-lions. There were a few juveniles playing in a deep pool and lots of adults lazing around. Then a mum and baby came out of the surf onto the beach. The baby just collapsed on the sand (hard being a baby and keeping up with mum). Mum looked around and saw it was safe and lay down herself. I watched as the baby got its 2nd wind and went into the water again. The mum in hot pursuit. A few minutes later, out they came again. I could almost see the Mum scolding the baby “into the naughty corner with you” – as the little one headed up the beach out of harms way and out of mischief.

I had to drag a reluctant Kerry away, before we traced our drive south up to the Calca Rd. We were glad we had gotten an early start to the day as there were so many vehicles heading south and we knew the platform was small. We passed Baird Bay again.

To see photos on the Point Labatt Loop, click here

We turned east onto the Calca Rd, heading for Murphys Haystacks, not having a clue what we would find there. We were very pleasantly surprised to find very large rocks sticking up out of the ground.

The Haystacks are inselberg rock formations. The overhanging dome formations are up to approximately 8 metres high. They are of a ‘tumulus’ form of weathered granite outcrop, made of a pink, massive, coarsely equigranular rock consisting mostly of quartz and orthoclase – try saying that after a drink or two. Most of the pillars emerge without a break from the underlying granite. They obtained their name because a traveller in a coach saw the formation in the distance. He asked the coach driver how a farmer could produce so much hay. “Ah they are hay stacks, they work very hard around here” the driver responded. As the farm was on a property owned by a man called Murphy, the rocks became known as Murphy’s Haystacks.

We walked in to the first group of rock with one having a lovely coloured concave side to it. Pretty as a picture.

Kerry went back to the car while I walked to the next cluster of rocks. There I was met by a woman who desperately wanted someone to take her photo in another wonderfully coloured concave rock, this one in a wave pattern. She wanted to be in the photo to give it a context of scale. It is indeed a beautiful rock.

There a lots more rocks there that kept the camera shutter going.

To see photos on the Murphys Stacks, click here

That evening we joined Lilian and Jon out on the beach. They have an excellent stainless steel fire pit and we we had a great evening under the rising moon and stars. Later we cooked our chicken on the plate.

Day 4 – Wed 24 Oct – Westall Way Loop

We headed south again, on a cold windy day, turning west only about 10km from Streaky Bay. We came to the ocean at Tractor Beach. There is a camping ground there. This is a rocky beach with lots of seaweed around, and with a stunning headland to the west. There are limestone outcrops extending in the sea out to the end of the cliff. There is a rough track up beside the cliffs and we went up that to get better views.

Leaving there we almost immediately came to a proper 4WD track up to High Cliff. This was incredible and we drove up to a parking area, then I walked up to the very top and out onto the ridge. Some great cliffs and sand hills up there, well worth the walk. If you can see a tiny black dot on top of the cliffs in the photos, that’s Des.

We continued on the Loop and came to the another lookout facing back towards High Cliff, from the other side – there were views across to the headland and Hideaway Beach.

The Granites is a secluded granite rock pool with breaking seas in the background. There are 4 or 5 surfers out there riding the waves off the break onto the rock shelf. Brave souls. There are great views across to High Cliff. Brave or foolish – they look remarkably like black seals in their wetsuits. Yummy thinks a great white snack.

We stopped at another lookout – no name, but great cliff views.

Point Westall in not far along the road. It was sighted and named by Matthew Flinders on 5 February 1802, after a landscape painter who was one of his crew on board the Investigator.

Smooth Pool is an excellent spot. Magnificent blue water and breaking waves make the area a seascape paradise. Smooth Pool itself is an eroding granite shelf that faces the full force of local westerly weather systems. The outcrop extends for several hundreds of meters and at low tide the area is studded with rock pools, some perhaps 2 metres deep. Kerry was in her element.