Is Rottnest WA’s jewel in the crown? What an amazing place. So many beaches and bays and coves, all marked by stunning while sand, beautiful turquoise waters and tantalising reefs. We had an amazing day, capped off by seeing, close up and personal, a mother quokka with her baby.
We
We went to Rottnest Island on 21 Sept as part of a brilliant stay at Fremantle between 17 to 22 Sept. Our time in Fremantle is covered in a separate post – click here – and our day in the Avon Valley is also in a seperate post – click here
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
History
Rottnest is a most intrieguing place. The Island was inhabited by Aboriginal people until rising sea levels separated the island from the mainland about 7,000 years ago, as the sea level rose. The island features in Noongar Aboriginal mythology as Wadjemup, meaning “place across the water where the spirits are”.
Rottnest, or Roto as the locals call it, is now the largest in a chain of islands on the continental shelf opposite Perth. These islands are all formed from limestone with a thin covering of sand. This coral reef surrounding Rottnest grew approximately 100,000 years ago when the sea level was thought to be at least three metres higher than the present. This reef system is fed by the warm Leeuwin Current and provides a home to much of Rottnest’s marine life, as well as presenting a significant hazard for shipping.
The Island was observed by various Dutch sailors from 1610. At Bathurst Point there is a plaque recognising that 13 Dutch sailors from the Waeckende Boey landed there on 19 March 1658 while their ship was careened nearby.
The island was given the name ‘Eylandt Rottenest (“’Rats’ Nest Island”) by Dutch captain Willem de Vlamingh who spent six days exploring the island in 1696, mistaking the quokkas for giant rats. He described the Island as “…a paradise on earth”. We can’t argue with that.
In 1831, shortly after the establishment of the British Swan River Colony at nearby Fremantle, William Clarke and Robert Thomson received land grants for town lots and pasture land on the island. Hay production and salt harvesting resulted.
Six Aboriginal prisoners were sent to Rottnest Island in August 1838 under the superintendence of Constable Laurence Welch and a small military force. All six escaped shortly after their arrival by stealing a boat. However, the Colonial Secretary announced in June 1839 that the island would be “converted to an Establishment for the Aborigines”, and between 1838 and 1931 (except for 1849 to 1855) Rottnest was used as an Aboriginal prison. Some 3,700 First Nations men and boys were imprisoned there over that time.
Rottnest was the site of internment camps in both World Wars. In WW I it was mostly used for German and Austrian suspected enemy aliens, and was closed towards the end of the war due to poor living conditions. In the 1990s the gun emplacements and railway were extensively reconstructed, and since then a tour of these has become a popular tourist activity. Today, Rottnest Island is one of the mote popular destinations in the West.
Getting There
We took a ferry which was a 30 minute trip from Fremantle. But first, a mini bus picked us up at 8:30 for our 9:30 ferry. With time to spare, we went to look at another migrant statue in a nearby street – I like these. Back at the wharf, Kerry was disappointed to again see the 2 live sheep export carriers, being quite angry at the whole concept and how it is being done.
We did not realise that there were a few ferry options – Rottnest Express, Sea Link and Hillarys. At our Van park, where we booked, the receptionist instantly grabbed a Rottnest Express brochure and quickly had us on that with a pick up/drop off, and return ferry fares. Cost was $120. In practice we found that our “red” boat was really packed on both journeys, whereas the other 2 were not nearly so crowded and the queues far less. We can’t see how the service was any different.
On arrival
We had not booked any transport on the Island before we got there. Maybe that was a mistake. We walked about 350m to the hire shop (get off the ferry and turn left and walk quickly to beat the mob). There are signs on the paving for the hire shop. We got there with 4 couples in front of us, but very soon there was a long queue behind us. The “get a hire bike” process was very slow so maybe arranging a bike from the ferry may be better, unless you are prepared to make sure you get to the hire shop first. We got an electric bike for Kerry, as she used to own one and an ordinary push bike for Des. Not sure the ferry provides electric bikes, but I throughly recommend them, having seen Des struggle up some hills.
The northern side of the Island
We went around the Island anti-clockwise, not because we thought that would be best, but because the signage in the town is not good, and we happened to somehow find our way onto the anti-clockwise route. We got to one signpost with 7 or 8 direction signs on it, but none of them related to anything I could see on the map we had been given. Frustrating.
Nevertheless, we were soon on our way to Bathurst Point. But we quickly came to a stop as we saw a quokka, a first for Kerry. They are very tame and she patted it for a while as it nibbled the grass. The poor little thing had a couple of scars on its back.
Bathurst Point is at the northern end of Thompson Bay, a bluff of low cliffs and a hill with a lighthouse on top. The lighthouse is the second one build, soon after the City of York was wrecked on the reefs for the loss of 11 people. There are wonderful views from there, and we got our first viewing of the absolutely stunning bays on the north side of the Island. The colour of the water is brilliant. The view of Pinkies Beach below the lighthouse is awesome.
From Bathurst Point we cycled around to the Basin. This is by far the most popular swimming beach on the island. Just a metre or two off the beach, a hole in the platform reef forms a large natural swimming pool of crystal clear, cool blue water. But it was too cold for us to swim, and we could feel the wind starting to pick up.
Next was Longreach Bay, a large half moon shaped picture postcard perfect stretch of sand and water, with lots of boats moored or anchored inside the reef. It is noted for stingers. We could also see jagged rocks that formed the reef – wouldn’t want to hit one of those.
After that it was s short cycle to Fays Bay, a small, peaceful beach nicely secluded from all the boats and cottages. We read that it is good for snorkelling.
Geordies Bay is another big bay with a good few boats moored – it is well protected so popular for boats. We stopped at the nearby shop and cafe for lunch. Des had excellent tapas, while I had hot chips and an iced chocolate. We couldn’t relax though as the seagulls were constantly ready to swoop on the food.
Little Geordie Bay is a tiny cove. It doesn’t have much of a beach as such, but it is sheltered and secluded.
Parakeet Bay is a long and open north-east facing beach that’s sheltered from the sea breeze by the sand dunes.
Armstrong Bay is long and mostly rocky, with a small sandy beach in a cove – Little Armstrong Bay – at the eastern end looks a great place to swim.
Catherine Bay is a wide bay almost completely enclosed by reefs, but for a narrow boat channel.
By this time, the hills have well and truely appeared, and my cycling up them is getting slower by the metre. Needless to say, the City of York Bay, named after a shipwreck, is really lovely.
Ricey Beach – a long straight beach with course-grained shelly sand. Next to the beach, the seafloor is sandy and clear.
Stark Bay has quite a long beach.
The southern side of the Island
By this time we were at the junction of the road down to Cape Vlamingh – we have no intention to go that far, as my cycling is progressively getting more difficult. While I struggle up hills Kerry whooshes past me with a grin on her face and nary a care.
The wind had also picked up and was quite strong and getting colder. So we turn east and quickly get to Mary Cove. This secluded bay is completely enclosed by a reef. Looks like good snorkelling prospects.
Near there is Green Island and Nancy Cove. On the beach Kerry, in her wanderings, round a large dead bird. Looks like an albatross.
We cycled down to Salmon Bay and adjacent Parker Point. Salmon Bay is the biggest bay on the island, containing a number of different Rottnest Island beaches – some where the surf breaks on shore and others that are more reefy and somewhat protected. We cycled next to this and there were tracks to the water. The far eastern corner of Salmon Bay is a gorgeous white beach and a lagoon riddled with reefs.
Then, we stopped at Henrietta Rocks. The lookout here presents a great view of the island, with the southern area more rugged than the north, where there are more little bays and coves. We could easily see the wreck of the Shark, which would make a great snorkelling spot on a calm day. Beneath the lookout is a delightful small beach. As we waked down to it, a lady went in for a swim, brave soul. We also spotted a couple of lobster pots just near the rocks at one end of the beach.
On the last leg into The Settlement, the chain came off my bike, right next to the lake. But thankfully I managed to get it back on again.
Approaching the village, we saw a couple of women photographing something that could only be a Quokka. If fact it was a mother with a baby. So cute – the baby with shiny black eyes, the mother so calm and placid. The baby, a little nervous kept delving into the pouch to have a drink, at which the mother would start to move away, causing the baby to topple over… very funny. Check them out in the video – click here
I was somewhat grateful to return the bike and walk over to have a beer on rubbery legs. I had not ridden a bike in years, and it will be many more before I do that again. They even had prosecco, but expensive at $14 a glass.
At 4:00, we could see the mob starting to assemble to board the 4:30 ferry. A Sea Link ferry (the blue ones) had left at 4. There was a Rottnest Express red ferry already in but that was going to Perth. A Hillarys ferry had recently arrived, and then we saw another RE red ferry arrive. Virtually everyone was on that ferry, so the queue was a bit chaotic. Those on the Hillarys were very calm and relaxed.
Back at Freo, the bus was there to pick us up and take us home.
It was a fabulous day, and we were exhausted, ready for an early night.
To see photos for this video, click here
To see the video for this post, click here