We have both been to the inner Barrier Reef in the past, from Airlie Beach. But we had heard that the outer reef was so much better. We had to see for ourselves. Our tour was with Diving Cairns.
Note that the professional photos referenced in this post must be acredited to Scubabo Underwater Art (instagram: @ scubabo_underwater_art). At the foot of this post is a link to our favourite Scubabo reef photos – they are amazing.
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting there
Simple. We got collected from our van park in a bus. The collection time was 6.50am (but be there by 6.45) but the bus did not arrive until 7.05. Not that we were counting the minutes.
We had several more pickups, with some passengers requiring a personal invitation from the driver to leave their accomodation and get on the bus. Some people are unbelievable, happy to loaf around while a bus load of people wait.
We were due to leave the terminal at 7.30 but did not get away until after 8. But we did get a good bacon and egg roll for breakfast. Kerry even had 2.
The Reef Experience is a high speed cat that takes tourists out to the much larger Reef Encounter – it takes 1.5 to 2 hours. The Reef Experience took us close to the Reef Encounter where we waited for the glass bottom boat to come across and get us, the overnighters.
Normally the Experience would come alongside for the transfer, but there was a lot of chop and wind.
The Reef Encounter
The RE is an air-coned 35m cat designed for comfort and stability.
There are spacious cabins (double and twin) and a large lounge dining area with licensed bar. Loads of outside deck space, including a huge sundeck. There was a hot tub up front on the main deck, but in poor condition.
And on the back were all the tanks and other equipment to get us onto the reef. The rear platforms moved up and down to provide a stable platform for getting into and out of the water.
Our package – 2 day, 1 night – could provide a total of 6 dives (including 1 night dive) and as much snorkelling as we liked. Weather permitting. There is a glass bottomed boat but, after the initial transfer, that was not offered or used. Perhaps it was too choppy.
I later found out the the Encounter stayed out for 2 or more years. They make their own water and refuel from the Encounter – they don’t travel far.
Day 0 – arrival
Once on board the RE we received a briefing on the boat, the diving/snorkelling and safety. The ship photographer Tylah Bezzina introduced herself, warning us that she would be pointing a very large cameras in our faces (same camera as National Geographic uses), and asking us to please come to her for any photo issues we may have. Tylah was excellent as were all the crew.
We were then shown to our cabin and told to get ready and get to the stern for our first session.
I had started feeling a bit nauseous the day before, so put on my pressure wrist bands, but it only got worse in the bus transfer to the wharf, and also in the trip out in the Experience. By the time we arrived at the Encounter, I was feeling really unwell, then we all had to sit down for a “chat” by a few of the crew about what to do and what not to do while snorkelling or diving…. I was starting to think I’d have to run to the bathroom, but miraculously managed to hold on until we got to the cabin where I was violently sick…. So, I ducked down to the bar and bought some sea-sickness tablets. I slept for a few hours then, so missed the first snorkelling session, but felt much better afterwards.
Meanwhile, I got my gear – a stinger suit (imagine a very light weight wetsuit about 3 sizes too big for you which is incredibly difficult to put on), goggles/snorkel and flippers. It took me ages to get my flippers on.
But finally I was in the water getting used to snorkelling again – it has been some years since I last did it. But I could not see any coral or fish so I went back to the boat to be told I had to go about 25m out before I reached the coral.
Back out there and over the coral it was amazing – the fish were stunning, such a variety of colours, shapes and sizes. They were mesmerising. And pretty soon I had that big camera in my face.
However, the coral itself was not so good and it is clear that much of it had been lost. There are pockets of really good coral, but more often a small splash of colour against a grey background.
Back on board it is lunchtime – various pastas and salads and fruit. A very good meal to start us off. I sat at a table with a young lady from Germany (Tanja) and a couple from Denmark (Henrik & Helen) and a man from South Australia.
There was another dive/snorkel session at about 1.30pm at a different section of reef – the boat had moved. This was a better reef but the coral damage was much the same.
At 3.30 I did my first every dive! Let me say that again – at 3.30 I did my first every dive! Still can’t quite believe it as I had not even thought of doing this before the cruise.
But I had ticked the introductory dive box on registering, and waited for this reef as it is supposed to be pretty good. Tanja and Henrik also did their first dives but in another group.
Four of us had a wonderful instructor – a Japanese lady with an unpronounceable name, who freely admitted it was unpronounceable for non-Japanese, but she had no nickname. She was fantastic. She took us carefully through all the procedures and equipment before we got ready.
I showed Des the easy way to put the flippers on, which I had learnt at the snorkelling lesson at our van park. You turn the heel out and down (like peeling a banana), put your foot in, then pull the heel up again…. makes it so easy.
Before I knew it I was all hooked up with a tank on my back (they are heavy out of the water) and was edging to the water. First I had to demonstrate that I could blow any water out of my goggles (push the top of the mask in and blow through your nose) and also take out the mouthpiece and put it it again while still breathing (out, obviously).
Then we were off following our leader – me very close to our leader. No way I was going to miss a turn! Again I soon had a big camera in my face.
The dive was great and there is so much freedom compared to snorkelling. Being deeper too, we saw many different fish. I was disappointed not to see a turtle. Wasn’t sure whether I wanted to see a shark or not despite the reassurances that reef sharks will not come near you.
My only problem was that my goggles kept letting in water, so often I could not see much. Blowing it out with my nose did not last very long. Nevertheless, it as a truely awesome day.
As Des was doing his first dive, I was doing my first snorkel of the trip.
Very successfully after our photographer pointed out that the snorkel was on the wrong side – worked so much better on the left side. Saw so many amazing little fish, but the coral wasn’t crash hot. I was so proud of myself. The water was quite choppy, but not much of a swell. My tummy had settled right down thankfully.
That evening we had salmon for dinner – really good. No choice but right at the start we were asked to identify things we could not eat, or did not want to eat.
We sat with Tanja, Helen & Henrik, and the SA man who said virtually nothing except when asked a direct question. We had a really good evening especially as it was Tanja’s birthday. The Reef Encounter was her present to herself.
The bar was pretty well stocked but, other than 3 types of wine, by the glass, you had to buy a bottle. No worries for Kerry and there is soon a bottle of bubbly on the go. Unfortunately for me the red wine by the glass was a cab sav which really does not agree with me. So I just have a couple of whites.
Our cabin on the boat was quite well set up and the bed really comfy. We slept like logs.
Day 1
Another day, another snorkel.
But first breakfast – a hot buffet with enough of everything to keep anyone happy. Unfortunately, we also had to vacate our cabin at around 8 so that it could be prepared for the new overnighters. This rankled a bit, I must say. We moved to the transfer cabin – a twin with ensuite etc – but this is to be shared with all others who have to vacate their cabins. Fortunately, we found out that we are the only ones for this trip.
We went out for the 8.30 dive/snorkel session, having quietly ignored the offer of a 6.30am session.
So it’s another fight with the stinger suit to drag it on. You could get mighty sick of this. Flippers OK now that Kerry has imparted her training from the snorkelling lesson she did.
The reef was a bit away from the boat so they took us out there in a dinghy. We could readily swim back as the current and wind would be behind us. In we went, not rolling in backwards as you see in the flicks, but a more demure slide in over the side.
Today, the water was very choppy – really in your face. I was snorkelling next to Des who was having problems with water getting into his snorkel all the time. The photographer helped him, but I had to hold this massive camera AND keep myself upright. All of a sudden I realised that I didn’t have the long skinny foam tube thing (a noodle?) to give me confidence. The photographer took back her camera and yelled at the guy in the dinghy to get a noodle from the ship.
A larger wave came right through and I absolutely panicked, but had the presence of mind to put my hand up high in the air. About 30 seconds later, after hearing a whistle from the ship, the dinghy was right next to me and I was hauled unceremoniously out of the water. The dinghy took me to within a few metres of the ship and I jumped in and swam to the boat. Boy, I was so glad to be on “solid ground”, but felt an absolute idiot for the panic session. The crew all reassured me.
Meanwhile I was really enjoying the reef. It seemed to have more colour and there were many fish on the move. But the water was very choppy, with a bit of a swell. So every few minutes the snorkel would go under and fill with water. With the snorkel full, it is impossible to breath in air and shout “TWO”. Can’t be done.
I stopped yet again to clear out the snorkel, looking around for Kerry as I wanted to get a photo of us together. She was nowhere in sight, so instant panic set in. I called to the nearest swimmer, but she did not know anything. Don’t panic, don’t panic. I called to a man, who also looked at me blankly. Then another lady said she thought Kerry had gone back to the boat by dinghy. I looked back to the boat just in time to saw Kerry emerging onto the back deck. That gave me a new definition of relief.
So after trying to put up with the choppy water for a good while, I reluctantly called it quits and headed back to the boat. Sadly the rough chop continued for the rest of the day, and that was our last snorkel. The weather stole good times from us again.
Henrik got a second dive in which is good as both his kids are into diving. Guess who has a new hobby?
Lunch was a meat or veggie roll with chips and salad. Again really good.
Then the inevitable calls for our departure begin – please come down and settle your bill (bar and dives). Please come and see Tylah about the photos. Which I did.
Tylah had put together a package of the specific photos that she took of us, as well as a suite of incredible pictures of the reef which she had taken. The cost was high but the quality was exceptional. First photo is $50. Then there is a range of options – the top one is everything for $200, which we take.
A link to our photos is shown below. To see my favourite amazing reef photos from Tylah, click here. Note that use of these must be attributed to Scubabo Underwater Art (instagram: @ scubabo_underwater_art).
At around 2:00 the departees were called to muster – bring our bags and assemble in the lounge. This is the end of a wonderful couple days.
The Reef Experience came alongside and off we troop. There is cheese and bickies to be had, and a glass of wine or 2, all free, for the 1.5 hour journey back to Cairns.
Back in Cairns we said goody to Tanja, Helen & Henrik. Our Danes were going back to Denmark after this – to spend the summer sailing their yacht around the Scandanavian coast, no less. Tanja is now in Sydney having been is Australia for over a year and taking casual work to pay for her travels. We hope to catch up with her again soon in Sydney.
So that was it – a brilliant and unforgettable couple of days. We really appreciated the boat staff – professional, knowledgeable, friendly and supportive.
Overall it cost us around $1,200 for the standard package, plus dive, plus bar, plus photos. We rate this as good value.
To see my photos related to this blog taken by me, click here
To see my favourite amazing reef photos from Tylah, click here.
Note that these are reduced in size for this post, and use of these must be attributed to Scubabo Underwater Art (instagram: @ scubabo_underwater_art).
To see a short video of our reef experience, click here