We had great expectations of driving from Shearwater (near Devonport) to Arthur River in a day, with time to explore all that this magnificent coastline has to offer. Some 211kms. But we quickly realised that we had totally underestimated how much there is to do and see on this fantastic coast. So many times we had to skip something we would normally have stopped for because time was screaming past us. But what we did see was just wonderful and we were very lucky to be there while the tulips were in flower – a rainbow painted on the hillside. It was a truly wonderful, although greatly rushed, drive.
We drove the north west coast of Tasmania on Tuesday 8th October 2019
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
History
A short history of Tasmania, from First Nations times to the arrival and growth of English colonial development, to the decimation of the First Nation Tasmanians, can be read here.
Getting There
We were based at Shearwater for a week which provided an ideal base for this drive. Distances are:
Shearwater > Devonport (20kms) > Penguin (34kms) > Burnie (17kms) > Wynyard (19kms) > Stanley (59kms) > Trowutta (44kms) ~ total of 211kms
To Penguin
It was a clear but very cold morning, so I did not leave my beanie behind this time. We got away about 7.30am with high expectations of getting to Arthur River – only a tad over 210kms. We refuelled at Devonport after locating the cheapest place on the app, just off the highway – saved 15c/L compared to Shearwater.
It was a lovely drive to Ulverstone through rich farmland and then along the coast. We quickly found the beach – or I should say access to the beach as the railway line runs right next to the coast stopping general access to the beach. Very frustrating to see a lovely spot but with no access. Our first stop was at a very pretty sandy beach.
We drove past a lovely old home and then got to a stoney beach with the sun literally glistening on the water. As we departed, a lovely vintage car rumbled past. We were to see more of these later. It’s so lovely to see vintage cars driving around in perfect weather…
It is a great drive around to Penguin – lots of lovely beaches and distant views of cliffs and islands. As well there are so many flowers planted along the road. Delightful!
At Penguin we pulled into one of the few parks on the water side of the railway line – which looks increasingly like it is no longer operating. But there are lovely flowers and lovely views up and down the coastline. All very pretty.
We saw a very unusual church on the way out of the town.
Penguin to Wynyard
On the way we came up behind some wonderful antique cars – what a hoot! We saw them again later. They were keeping up the speed too – I just loved the bright and happy canary yellow one.
The lovely views along the coast continued. Very pretty drive, and good beaches to Burnie. The coastline very much reminds me of the New Zealand coast north of Christchurch…. Hills going down to the sea and so very green.
We first went to the Makers Workshop which is part contemporary museum, part arts centre. Here you can meet the makers of all sorts of things: paper making, cheese making, whisky making, ceramics, textiles, glass, print makers, painters, sculptors and lots more. Their produce is for sale.
For something different, people can join a class and learn how to make paper out of apple pulp, lavender, rainforest leaves or wombat droppings. But on our day, being early in the morning, there was only one “maker” making – a printer. But it is an amazing place and we loved the “all white” figures dotted around the complex. I assume they were paper mâché – so much wonderful detail
We walked along the waterfront to see the little homes for the Little Penguins. We could have had a free guided penguin tours by local volunteers around sunset, but the penguins were arriving at around 7:30 and we would be a long way away by then.
We drove around the town before heading west again – it looks a good town, would have been good to linger.
Approaching Wynyard we saw that there is a huge rock formation out to sea – the massive Table Cape, a cliff-top patchwork of rich soils and colourful crops high above Bass Strait.
We stopped at the tourist information to check where all the must-dos were. We saw were half a dozen antique cars parked around the office – we are in the middle of a rally of 50 or so cars the owners of which were looking through the Veteran Car Display attached to the tourist office. There are some wonderful cars there including the equal oldest (1903) Ford vehicle in the world on public display. There is also an Indian motor bike and many old pushbikes. Its an amazing place.
Apparently all the cars in the “inside” display are owned by the one man…. What an amazing hobby but it must be like our boat was – a bottomless pit of $ to maintain. The leg-room in the rear of these old cars is mind-boggling – you could almost fit a 3rd row of seats in… Equally in the front – I’d need a block of wood attached to my feet to reach the pedals as the front seats do not appear to move.
We got some good directions and more maps from the lady in the tourist office and were quickly back on the road again to have a quick drive around town – some lovely and interesting looking homes – and then to see Fossil Bluff – a really lovely beach with high cliffs at either end. We could not resist having a quick walk on this beautiful beach.
Then it was up to the top of Table Cape initially to see the lighthouse, but of course this is where the tulip farm is and the fields are striped the colours of the rainbow. Incredible to see and we were there at the perfect time to see the flowers – the festival was going to be on the next weekend.
From the lighthouse we went to the lookout, with great views along the coast.
We then went to the tulip farm – $12 a head to get in. But the flowers are incredible.
I was on a mission to buy bulbs, but could not see any tulip bulbs for sale – only the full plants (a tad difficult taking 30 or so full grown plants on a plane back to Sydney) and the queue was soooo long I gave up and will order some on-line. Managed to take lots of photos of the bar-codes and descriptions of the varieties that should suit our front terrace.
More of the antique cars were in the car park and we passed more on the drive around the Cape. There was also wonderful farming country, with some great views along the coast to the west. This was a very rushed visit as the time was getting away from us – we could have spent a lot longer in Wynyard. Wynyard is one of those little places that has a really good feel to it…. maybe a good place to stay when we return.
Wynyard to Stanley
Next place on the drive was Boat Harbour. The turquoise of the water was amazing – didn’t expect to see this in Tassie. The sand here was also really white, but not the squeaky feel that you get sometimes with extremely white sand.
And then we came to Sisters Beach, which is a really, really beautiful beach. We had to make time for a very quick walk on this gem of a beach.
We did not have time to go into the Rocky Cape NP, which was disappointing. Not far from there is Peggs Beach providing good views to the “Nut” – the massive rock outcrop at Stanley. It’s a pretty good beach as well.
Stanley is a unique place, sitting as it does at the base of the Nut. It has long been a fishing village and has an excellent port facility. There are some lovely old buildings especially in the town centre. There are also sea views in every direction. We did not have time to visit historic Highfield House (circa 1833, the former residence of the General Manager of the Van Diemens Land Company) or take the chairlift up to the top of the Nut. Another real touchy-feely place with a great atmosphere….. the old architecture is superb.
To the west is the beautiful Godfreys Beach.
Trowutta Arch
By this time it was mid afternoon and it was clear we were not going to get out to Arthur River. But we did have time to go to a place recommended by the lady at the Wynyard tourist information office – to Trowutta Arch to the south. It was initially a lovely drive through rolling hills and lush green farmlands.
Closer to Trowutta we were in forest lands where there had been some recent clearing. It was a sparkling white dirt road to the arch, through a mix of lush farmland and cleared forest lands which are pretty ugly.
But then suddenly we are in a rainforest at the carpark for the Arch. What an amazing contrast! The walk through the rainforest to the arch is a delight.
It is a short walk to the Arch, where there is a view through the natural rock arch to a large rock pool on the other side. The pool is bright green – covered with duck weed. It is a really unusual pace and well worth the drive . The tree ferns were simply amazing – so many – not hugely tall specimens, but looking really healthy – obviously an ideal ecosystem for them to thrive.
From there is was just a near two hour drive back to Shearwater. Kerry slept the whole way. I did not – just made sure Des was on the right road to “home” – THEN I slept.
Clearly we did not give enough time for this trip. It would have been better to take our time, stay overnight at Stanley and then drive to Marrawah and Arthur River, and then did the the Tarkine Drive the next day (C214) back around to Trowotta. Next time.
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