We had barely heard of Maria Island before this trip so had no idea what lay ahead of us. We discovered an island incredible not only because of its convict heritage, but increasingly importantly for its ability to potentially save endangered species. The work on the Tassie devils is brilliant. And let’s not forget that it also has fantastic scenery. We also really enjoyed the drive down from Coles Bay – loved Swansea, and so many little gems that caught our attention. A great couple of days.
We visited the Maria Island area on 16 &17 October 2019
Getting There
Coles Bay > Swansea (59kms) > Triabunna (50kms) > Spring Beach (11kms) ~ total of 120kms.
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
History
A short history of Tasmania, from pre-colonial times, to the arrival and growth of British colonial development, to the decimation of the First Nation Tasmanians, can be read here.
Maria Island (pronounced mə-RY-ə, like Mariah) has a long and rich history. Before the colonial era, Tyreddeme Aboriginal people journeyed regularly to the island and much evidence of this remains, particularly around the bays on either side of the island’s isthmus. In 1802 the French expedition led by Nicolas Baudin encountered the Aboriginal people on Maria Island, as did the whalers of the early 19th century.
Sealing was conducted on the island from at least 1805. Shore-based bay whaling was undertaken in the 1830s and 1840s at four locations on the island. Increasingly whaling ships came in to hunt whales.
The island’s first convict era was between 1825 and 1832 (stopped because it was too easy to escape), and its second – the probation station era – between 1842 and 1851. Among those held during the second era was the Irish nationalist leader William Smith O’Brien, exiled for his part in the Young Irelander Rebellion of 1848.
From the 1880s, the Italian entrepreneur Diego Bernacchi set up island enterprises including silk and wine production and a cement factory, and quarrying limestone deposits at the Fossil Cliffs. A substantial cement works was built in the early 1920s at Darlington .
At the height of its fortunes in the early 20th century, Darlington had hundreds of residents and several hotels. By mid 1930 all of these ventures had failed. Until the late 1960s the island was dominated by farming.
The Tasmanian Government resumed all of the island’s freehold land and established the national park, proclaimed in 1972. It extended the park to include part of the surrounding sea in 1991.
Day 1 – Wed 16 October – To Spring Beach
It was another beautiful morning although pretty cold. We got away at about 8.30 – it was going to be an easy day today as there was nowhere that we had to be. We drove north until we got to the A3 and then we turned south for Swansea.
The landscape we were driving through was mostly farmland, although the vegetation looked pretty average. We only ever saw sheep grazing on this land – no cattle. And then every now and again, surprisingly, we would come across a vineyard, or an orchard.
We saw a sign to a lookout – a photo opportunity. But when we turned into the area indicated, we found ourselves in the Devils Corner vineyard. Heavens knows where the lookout was. But we took a few photographs as the scenery, and vineyard, looked great, and then turned around and made our way out again.
Just before we got to Swansea, we saw a sign to 9 mile beach. As it was only 3 km away, we turned left and headed for the beach. However, it was nearly a 10 km drive from the turn off before we got to a sign that said “beach”. We drove down to a parking area and came out at about the middle of this extremely long and beautiful beach. The sand was a gold colour, the sea was a beautiful deep blue and we were looking at mountains and islands in all directions.
Approaching Swansea we drove through a lovely corridor of trees.
Entering Swansea we quickly came to the Bark Mill set up. The Bark Mill is a restored mill and museum and is Australia’s only restored Black Wattle Bark Mill, and possibly the only one in the world.
The fully working mill shows how bark from local black wattle trees was once crushed for export across the world. The bark is the basic ingredient used in tanning. The mill was established in 1885 and continued operation until the early 1960s. It was one of the few industries that operated in Swansea through the Great Depression and helped keep the town afloat. There’s also a display on early French exploration along Tasmania’s east coast.
There is a ton of stuff throughout the museum, but the centrepiece is the working mill. There was no bark going through the machines but the various signs allow us to get the picture. It’s a fascinating tour. We also enjoyed tea/coffee and cake in the bakery.
Swansea is a really nice town and Kerry was particularly impressed by the Morris’ General Store building. An imposing and solid stone building. From the rear of the building we were able to look at the views out and along the bay.
There are a number of fine buildings in the town, in particular, one home is being restored but the white wisteria looks lovely. There were quite a few other fine buildings. Some of the homes have stunning gardens too….
We particularly like the stone church at the top of the hill. It has very simple but very stylish lines and the interior is also unprepossessing. At the rear of this church is what we take to be the original church, a much smaller timber version.
In amongst these lovely buildings, the old school stands out as one of the prettiest.
Today it is a museum for the town. A substantial part is dedicated to Louisa Anne Meredith who is regarded as one of Australia’s most talented colonial female writers and artists. She arrived in Van Diemen’s Land in 1840, aged 28. She had a passion for nature, and grew to love the native flora and fauna of her new homeland. She produced many beautiful paintings and sketches and a series of illustrated books of poems and essays. Despite her success and recognition, her life was not easy as her husband proved unsuccessful with investments. But despite their poverty they moved in the best society. Some of her artwork on display in the museum is absolutely amazing.
Another display concentrate on the transportation of men and women from Britain to Australia. Between 1803 and 1853, 73,000 men, women and children were transported to Van Diemen’s Land.
Three levels of penal systems were implemented. The first was assignment, where convicts were assigned to government bodies or individuals and eventually could work their way to freedom and the acquisition of a land grant. The second level was the probation system, which started with a period of hard labour and was a staged progression towards freedom if all went well. The stages involved temporary incarceration in an English jail, transportation to Van Diemen’s Land with hard labour, the potential to earn a probation pass and to fully or partially work for themselves, and finally a pardon. The third level was the exile system. This assumed that the the convicts were able to be trained and reformed and contribute to the development of the colony.
Another display focuses on the achievements of the French explorer Nicolas Baudin who left France in 1800, leading a highly successful exploration of Australia. In many places Baudin and Matthew Flinders were not far from each other. Baudin wanted the French government to stake a claim on Australian land.
Two of the classrooms from the original school remain as such, although a tremendous amount of memorabilia has been added.
I spotted two little schoolbags – exactly the same as I had in early primary school, like little suitcases…. how some things remain the same!
It was interesting to read the rules for school teachers issued in 1879. It told us that gentleman teachers may take one evening off for courting purposes, and two evenings off to attend church.
Female teachers who marry or engage in unseemly conduct, will be dismissed. The rules for female teachers from 1915 are also appear extraordinary. Female teachers had to be home between the hours of 8 pm and 6 am unless attending a school function. They must not marry and they must not keep the company of men.
They were not allowed to travel beyond the towns limits without permission, and were not to loiter at the ice cream parlours. They were not allowed to dress in bright colours and under no circumstances dye their hair. They had to wear at least two petticoats and their dresses could not be shorter than 2 inches above the ankle. Really makes you wonder why they bothered. Heavens knows how any of them would actually meet anybody to get married in the first place.
We continue driving around town and ended up down at the bay. There we saw a couple more very fine buildings including Schouten House, formerly Swansea Inn, built circa 1844. From the beach we also had a good view down the coast.
Not far south of Swansea is Kates Berry Farm – a very busy place. This is a delightful place and a mass of African daisies welcomed us to the farm. The flowers are just amazing. Banks of white, mauve through deep purple flowers – these mass plantings really work.
The wisteria Hanging off the roof of one of the buildings is also quite stunning. We got chatting to Kate herself who is a lovely lady. She tends the gardens herself and told us that she had just purchased 9 cherry trees – as they were on special for $20 each – and they were a pretty good size too – about 150cm. Later I saw her carrying out scones, jam and cream for someone…. such a pity we had eaten at the Black Wattle Inn already.
Inside we bought a few delicacies, such as black current jam and a number of chutneys and spreads AND freeze-dried raspberries in chocolate and a small jar of raspberry jam.
About 10 km further run we came to Chrissy Beach, and the drive in from the main road provided wonderful views across to the Freycinet Mountains. It really is a very gorgeous beach and would be brilliant for a swim in warmer weather. A really lovely place.
Further along we came to Spiky Beach. We walked down to a couple of headlands to get some feeling for the beach itself and of course some excellent photos. The colour of the water is just wonderful.
A few hundred metres from that beach is Spiky Bridge, an amazing mass of stones, capped off with spiky upright stones, all of that to cross what looks like a very small creek. The bridge is part of the old convict built coach road which connected Swansea with Little Swanport and the east coast road to Hobart. The bridge was built by convicts in 1843.
There is an interesting story about how the bridge was built – the locals had been requesting one for a considerable time. Eventually, one of the richer locals invited the local MP for dinner…. driving him back home, he raced the carriage through the very rough crossing and really unsettled the MP. Voila! The bridge building commenced. If only it were as easy nowadays – although it probably is if you are super-rich.
Near Buxton Creek we passed the lovely Buxton cottages – what looked like a lovely stone built structure. In fact we had driven past it and caught a glimpse, and then turned round to try to get a proper look. But there was nowhere to park and get a view of this interesting looking house.
The drive to Tribunna was a mix of coastal roads and driving through extensive farmlands.
There are some interesting looking buildings in Tribunna, but many of them appear to be locked up and deserted. The old Tribunna House in particular, a long term public house and shop, looks in a bad state of repair. Similarly the Spring Bay Hotel also looks to be locked up and awaiting a new fate. Tribunna House must have been magnificent back in the day – still would be if someone actually did some much-needed restoration. Almost criminal to leave it in the state its in.
There is quite an extensive marina on the bay with a great many fishing boats, as well as even more recreational boats. This must be a great centre for boating and fishing. We stopped at the Tourist Information Office and purchased tickets for the ferry the next day to Maria Island. Cost was $45pp – only discounts for a pensioners or heath care card. Us seniors had to pay full fare.
It is a short drive onto Orford, but there doesn’t appear to be much there. So we drove the 7km or so to Spring Beach where our B&B accommodation was waiting for us. A timber cottage with a massive deck facing the beach and bay…. Really cosily decorated with a lovely feel to it. AND a great pot belly stove.
Day 2 – Thu 17 October – Maria Island
Although it had rained overnight, the morning provided a cold and dry, but partially overcast, start to the day. The sunrise came up from behind Maria Island and provided a great photo opportunity. We also checked out the beach before driving to Triabunna.
We got the 9.00 ferry from Triabunna across to Maria Island – a pleasant sail of about half an hour. It is quite a large ferry serving hot and cold drinks. There was the inevitable queue for coffee – but not us.
This wonderful island is a natural wildlife sanctuary and its conservation value is enormous. Since the late 1960s, Maria has become a kind of Noah’s Ark, as a number of threatened species have been introduced here in a bid to protect their very existence. For example Tasmanian devil numbers state-wide have declined dramatically due to the Facial Tumour Disease. Maria Island was a site for captive breeding and 15 Tasmanian Devils were introduced to the Island in 2012 (Maria Island had previously been devil-free). These are now successfully breeding.
The very things that made the island a convict settlement, now make it an ideal refuge for plant and animal species that are elsewhere under threat. So alongside native pademelons which occurred on the island naturally, are Forester kangaroos and Bennetts wallabies which have been introduced to the island. Cape Barren geese and Tasmanian native hens have also been introduced. There are an incredible amount of brush-tail possums too as well as two species of wombats – the Common Wombat and the Flinders Island Wombat – the latter being a much paler fur colour.
But the Island also dotted with historic buildings and ruins, sweeping bays, and dramatic vistas making it a real tourist drawcard. The island contains the most intact example of a convict probation station in Australia. The stone Commissariat Store is the islands oldest building and is now a visitors centre. There are excellent walking and cycling opportunities – there are no buses or cars to get you around. But you can hire a bike on the Island.
After checking in at the visitor centre, we walked the short distance to Darlington town, passing through an avenue of absolutely massive trees. At the end of this I spotted a pademelon munching on the grass off to one side. Lovely to see.
There are wombats galore, everywhere you look, happily munching away on the grass. Some have the lighter fur colour of the Flinders Island wombats.
The town had many buildings that are still being used.
There are so many convict buildings here, in good condition or in many stages of disrepair, that we can only mention a few. The Commissariat Store (1825) is a beautiful stone building, the oldest building on the island. Downstairs was the office, the provision store and the spirit room. Upstairs were stores belonging to the Ordinance Department.Three soldiers were posted here to protect valued merchandise.
The Penitentiary (1830). One of the few buildings that remain from the first convict period, the Penitentiary was established using 200,000 bricks. Initially there were only five dormitories and a laundry. In the second convict period the prisoners occupied 292 berths ‘like bottles in a bin’ with 66 men in each room.The convicts slept in a triple tiered system of hammocks— resembling a triple bunk bed. Today the rooms are used for overnight accomodation – we just cannot imagine so many convicts in each room.
The most famous convict was William Smith O’Brien – a well educated Irish Protestant member of Parliament, who led a ragged Irish revolution in mid 1848, spent nine months of cramped confinement in the small cottage. His stay on Maria Island produced a secret diary, sardonic and homely poems, legal enquiries, letters and events (including a much regretted incident of “taking liberties” with the daughter of Superintendent Lapham), as well as an escape attempt in the schooner Victoria in 1850. O’Brien was sent to Port Arthur soon after. There is a display of his very interesting life in the house where he was imprisoned. He is recorded as saying on his arrival at the Island: “…to find a gaol in one of the loveliest spots formed by the hand of Nature in one of her loneliest solitudes creates a revulsion of feelings I cannot describe…”
The Coffee Palace (1888). Built by the Maria Island Company, the Coffee Palace had two dining rooms and a lounge at the front of the building.The rear of the house was used as living quarters and also contained a kitchen.The term Coffee Palace was a name commonly used to describe a type of restaurant. There are remnants of the wall paper that would have adorned the original walls. This is a really lovely building.
Bernacchi’s Terraces one and two (1888). Bernacchi, a free settler from Italy, wished to introduce sericulture to the colony and chose Maria Island, which enchanted him.
The two terraced cottages were established using bricks recycled when the Separate Apartments were pulled down. The buildings were constructed in the Victorian Georgian era with more emphasis placed on detailing. They were established after both convict periods by Diego Bernacchi, as accommodation for industrial workers in the first phase of development of the island. Today they are private homes.
We walked around to see the Painted Cliffs, calling in to see Ruby Hunt’s Cottage on the way. But it was closed. It was originally the visiting Magistrates house, but was named after Ruby the Islands last independent resident. Ruby moved to the Island in 1925 to work at the Portland Cement Company.
There are great views walking around the Island with vistas across to the mainland. It had become a lovely day, but I did not remove my beanie. Hopground Beach is a lovely spot.
There are some remarkable trees out here.
We had a look through Howells Cottage, circa 1924, after walking along another avenue of massive trees. The hut appears to be only just holding itself together and seems to have been lined internally with timber fruit boxes. John Howell worked the land behind Hopground Beach and had a wife and 4 children.
The sign to the painted cliffs took us onto the beach. We could see one edge of the cliffs, but as the tide was coming in we could not see the main body of the cliff wall. I did jump onto the edge of the cliffs when the waves receded, so was able to get some better photographs.
We walked back via the beach and saw some lovely shells. We had been wondering about seashells. Did you know that seashells are the exoskeletons of mollusks such as snails, clams, oysters and many others. Thus, seashells grow from the bottom up, or by adding material at the margins. Since their exoskeleton is not shed, molluscan shells must enlarge to accommodate body growth.
Back at the town Kerry spied the same pademelon as she had seen before. But then we we saw another, this one with a joey in its pouch sticking its head out now and again to eat the grass. We also saw a mother and baby wombat (make that large baby) eating together.
We walked up to see other ruins, notably of the religious instruction house (1843) and the Grand Hotel (1888). It is easy to think that the Island was always about convicts and imprisonment, but in fact it was mostly private enterprises.
We went up to the cemetery, which provided glorious views across the bay. Most of the graves are now either broken or in serious decay such that you cannot read the inscriptions The most prominent headstone was for a baby – who died at just 1 day old…. so poignant.
Finally, we looked at the old barn.
We changed our return ferry from the 3.30 to the 2 o’clock, as we had really seen most of the things we could see within walking distance. It was a fascinating day and we had really enjoyed the opportunity. Next time we take a bike.
We did some shopping at Tribunna and went to the post office to send postcards to the grandkids.
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