This is a big post as Lorella Springs is a massive experience by any measure and cannot be dealt with simply. It is different from what we expected – we were thinking more of a posher place with perhaps a few creature comforts, pampering to guests. It’s nothing like that! Lorella Springs is a wild, natural and remote place, full of character, gorgeous gorges and natural springs, and in your face landscapes. It is a massive adventure park full of options for an authentic Gulf experience. And the amazing Southern Lost City is just around the corner.
21 May 2018 – 26 May 2018
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting there
Matatanka > (Roper Bar) (183km) > Lorella Springs Turnoff (237km) > Lorella Springs (29km) ~ Total of 449kms
Day 0 – travel to Lorella Springs
We are leaving Mobi at Materanka for this expedition. After a furious early morning packing and swapping things between The Cruiser and Mobi, we got away at 7.20 – a good start.
We hit the Roper highway and this is a single centre bitumen lane road where the trucks have right of way – meaning that they make it perfectly clear that they will not be moving off the bitumen. They will come straight up the middle so you have to scramble. Fortunately we did not meet many of them.
Before long we saw a herd of about 20 brumbies – shy brumbies so the photos are not great. Later we saw a buffalo and he was far too fast for us photographers.
The dirt road starts about 40km from Roper Bar – after about 140kms of bitumen. The landscape was also changing.
We had distance indicators every 10km (surprisingly) and at about zero km we started to look for the right hand turn to Roper Bar and other places south. But we saw nothing – only a sign to Urapunga Community Store. We ploughed on thinking that we could go to the next tiny town called Naukurr, and then turn south.
We flagged down the next car and the lady driver told us to go back about 20km. No signage has stuffed us again. We turned around. Then let the tyres down by about 20% as we knew the roads from here on in are all dirt. The woman also told us that the store at Roper Bar was closed and now for sale – so much for refuelling then!!!
We went back about 22kms and turned into a road without a signpost, and within 100m saw all the signs we expected, with distances to Roper Bar and even Lorella Springs. There are 2 new big bridges over the Roper R. and Wilton R. These road works have cut off the old road where all the signs remain, but with nothing on the new road to direct us back to the old. That was about 45kms wasted on a dirt road.
So we were back on the Savannah Way, heading south, on 267km of dirt (allowing for the 30km to Lorella).. A reasonable road to start with, but plenty of corrugations.
We got to Tomato Island which is just a camping area with a very steep boat ramp down to the Roper River. This is a big river! Lots of people here, very busy – all obviously fishers.
The road is starting to get worse. We did a few river crossings but the water level was quite ok. After the Little Johns crossing – a bigger one – we stopped for lunch.
Most crossings had a concrete base, but some of these has started to break up. At one very large concrete structure the edge facing the road had broken badly. It was on a blind corner so we dropped it to Low Range as a precaution. But it was was ok.
Soon the road is just a 2 wheel track with grass growing in the centre, and occasional very rough patchs. Then the landscape changes and a series of sandstone cliffs and bluffs begin to emerge. Lovely long outcrops of sandstone guiding us on our way.
Snippets of the drive can be seen on the video – click here
We progressively come to the few points of interest on the drive – the Nathan R. Rangers Station (for Limmen NP), the turnoff to the Western Lost City (in Limmens NP), and then Butterfly Springs, also in the Park.
It’s only a few kms in to Butterfly Springs and soon we are the only vehicle in the carpark. We had been warned that the falls are drying up fast and sure enough there is little water trickling down, and the pool at the base of the falls is looking a tad murky. But it sits in a really lovely context of cliffs.
Soon we came to what we thought would be our focus of Limmen NP – the Southern Lost City. And it is awesome. Wow!
There are thousands of sandstone columns here and we walk around and through this marvel on a loop for about 2.5km. Its after 4pm so the sun is setting, intensifying the colours of many of the columns.
They are of all shapes and sizes – some are very solid columns of rock but with a tiny waist near ground level holding it all up. How does they stay up, we wonder.
The Lost City was a real eye-opener – we could have been looking at a South American Indian village, or the ruins of a Cambodian temple complex or a medieval castle ruins in England. Loved it all – the shapes, the colours, the simple grander that mother nature provides.
Snippets of the Southern Lost City can be see in the video – click here
Finally we got to the Lorella Springs turnoff, and only had 29km to go. After a long day we couldn’t wait to get there and the last kilometres seemed to take forever. There are 3 gates to open on the way in and Kerry did the honours.
Overall, it was a very long and a rather unpleasant trip – we should have gone south on the Stuart Hwy near Daly Waters and come in via Cape Crawford – a lot less dirt. But here we are having an experience!
We checked in and then, as the bar was right at the checkout point and happy hour was on, I went to grab us a drink – it had been such a long day. My beer was ok, but there is no bubbly wine to be had. Kerry is very annoyed and I don’t blame her. How can a place like this not cover the basics. I told the lady that I don’t drink wine, only bubbly and could I bring my own up to the restaurant while we had dinner. She checked with the owner and came back with a “no, it will effect our licensing”. Just great!!! Won’t be spending much time here.
We registered for dinner and then went to unpack . We are in a cabin which we thought, especially for the price, had a few problems:
- it had obviously not been used for a while and not checked before we rolled up
- there is so little storage – only one 3-drawer bedside table
- there is only 1 bedside table for a cabin with a double and a single bed
- there was no remote for the aircon (which arrived promptly after we mentioned it), and it broke down after the second day
- there was no gas bottle for the BBQ (which arrived within an hour after we mentioned this too)
- there is a branch of a large dead tree poking at the edge of the very small veranda which gets my head every time I turn around.
We knew that there were no cooking / eating facilities in the cabin – no cutlery, crockery, utensils etc. So we had brought our own. We did not want to eat in the restaurant for all of the 5 nights. We had also brought our camping cupboard to store things in, being very aware of storage issues in cabins.
Lorella Springs home base is a very large park area with 4 well spaced cabins and many other forms of accomodation. There are also many other options for camping close to or away from the home camp including some out on the Gulf. There is also a natural spring pool just near the restaurant.
It is quite different from what we expected. More of a wild and natural place, full of bush character and gorges and springs and landscapes. Whereas many places present a clear focus for your visit – such as our favourite Carnarvon Gorge, or the unique Undarra Lava Tubes – Lorella Springs presents a smorgasbord of adventure options and it is up to you to put together your own daily, or weekly, agenda. The staff are there to help you select and then to brief you on what to do and what to expect.
At 6:30, the designated time for dinner, we were at the restaurant to find a table reserved for us. Our meals arrived quickly – Kerry the chicken and me the rump at $34 a head). My rump was adequate.
While we were eating, the owner came up and we told him about the “no remote control for the a/c and the no gas bottle for the bbq”. He said he would get onto it right away. While he was there, I asked him personally about the champagne. He then said “ok, but don’t tell anybody”. The chicken was quite dry and we took some back to our fridge to have for sandwiches the next day. Later, I noticed a sign at the bar saying “no BYO “past this point” – which means I could have had whatever I wanted on the deck, just not sitting at the bar….
Day 1
I went up to the office to ask about our first exploration – we wanted to see Gateway Gorge and the Teardrop Falls. While we were in that area we also wanted to go for a soak in the Nudies hot springs (NB this is just a name). I got detailed instructions from the woman in the office and signed out.
So we let the tyres down some more to 28psi cold and were ready for action. We were soon going through our first river crossing which was all ok. We saw a sign to Yellow Springs and deviated there to see 2 car springs painted yellow perched on some timber. Someone has a sense of humour.
On our left was a lovely long billabong and we stopped at Rocky Fall where the water tumbles down a rock face to a lower level.
We also stopped at Eagles Nest Billabong – very large and pretty waterway. There is an aluminium boat there for our use but we left that for later.
After a few kms we came to an area they were excavating and the tracks were a bit confusing with no signs. Luckily we picked the right turn. Then we turned south onto Little Rosie Track. The imaginatively named Snapping Handbag Billabong is lovely and again there was a boat for our use if we wanted to.
There are a few rough patches in the track but only 2-3 Low Range sections so far, including a couple of deep drops and up again, and one billabong crossing over a rocky outcrop. Some of these can be seen on the video – click here.
After about 7-8kms we thought we should be at Gate Way Gorge. We saw an overgrown track to the right – no signs – and went down there. A short walk took us to the edge of another massive lagoon with a steep sandstone backdrop. If we had known this was the Gate Way would have explored some more as this is where the escarpment narrows to a bottleneck before discharging to the lower river. Lovely place.
Back on the track, we went up hill to the Mountain on the Edge of the Clouds – the Gate Way lookout. What a great name. We walked down to see stunning views of the Gorge.
After this we went down a long extremely rocky track for about 50m in slow Low Range. Then we were at another intersection with no signposting. We guessed to go right and had about another 3-4km of rough track before coming to another intersection but this time one with signposts. Yeah! To the right is the Hidden Pools and to the left is the Teardrop Falls. We head left.
After a couple of rough patches we came to a massive rock outcrop across the track – we call it the Rock Bar. I reckon it is too much for us to take and we decide to walk in a bit to see what things are like. So off we went, me carrying the drone. After about 500m I realised the drone was useless as my iPad was back at camp. We were also on a good track wondering why The Cruiser was not carrying us along.
So we went back to check out the rock bar in detail. We had seen tyre prints in the sand so we knew some brave buggers had been over it. We moved a lot of stones to fill the obvious holes in the crossings as best we could and then went back for The Cruiser. It was a hairy ride, and I was as nervous as a turkey in December, but at snails pace we crawled over.
In about 1.5km we were at the Teardrop Falls. It is a spectacular piece of sandstone, with massive buttresses on either side and about a quarter of the way down a neat “u” shape where the falls plunge over to a pool below. But today there is little water over the fall and the pool is very murky indeed.
We took lots of photos and I decided to clamber up the bluff to see the rock pool that lies behind the falls in the upper river. We had heard that this is brilliant. I waited in a shady spot sitting on a rock while Mr. Intrepid climbed the heights.
So up I went until I thought I could go no further as the rock was just too steep. So I yelled down to Kerry that I would be coming back down. But within a minute I had seen a pink ribbon tied to a tree which indicated a path up. So I yelled back to Kerry that I was on the track going up. I didn’t hear this – he must have been around a corner.
The climb was not so bad – very steep with lots of loose rocks but no issues. At the top I had expected that I would quickly get to the top the gorge where I could get my photos of the upper pool and all the surrounding landscape which are wonderful. But I had to find my way across about 100m plus of rough boulders and then knee length grass (snakes!) outcrops before I reached the edge of the gorge and I could see down to the upper pool. I should say glimpsed the pool, as it is a long way down and there are many trees.
Then I made my way back across the boulders to get back down. But I could not find the track down. It was a rugged outcrop and of course it all looks the same. I remembered that there a tree with a pink ribbon attached close to the top, but once up, there were no markers.
Meanwhile, I waited at the bottom at the pool. I heard Des yell from the top of the incredibly steep looking path “I’m coming down”, so I relaxed for another 10 minutes…. No sign of him. I yelled “Des” … no response. Louder…. still no response. Another couple of minutes… no bloody response. I started to get nervous – he had felt dizzy earlier that day and I worried that maybe he had sat down and lost orientation or something. Back I sprinted to the car, aware that he didn’t have any water and it was very hot and possibly no shade up the top wherever he was.
So I got walking shoes on, topped up a water bottle, bum bag with the satellite phone and my iPhone, and a cap – no hat because I wouldn’t be able to see uphill if I had a hat on. Locked the car and started up hill very very quickly. I think I got to the top in less than 15 minutes – but it was a scramble and I got quite sooty from clinging onto burnt trees. Yelling Des’s name all the time (with no response).
I was really aware of keeping the tree with ribbons attached in sight, so wandered around for a while, continually calling Des…. (still no bloody response), but no body found either which was great. So – time to phone someone.
I dialled the emergency number 000 which apparently works even with no service….. calling… calling…. calling, but nothing….. So I decided to turn on the sat phone. Nothing seemed to happen because I couldn’t find the software on my phone.
I walked around the edge for maybe 40mins trying to find the track. It was hot and I needed a drink as I had not brought water with me – hey, I was only going for a quick scramble up the cliff, nip over for a photo and then straight back down. I was far from panicking, more concerned for Kerry and what I should do next.
Then I saw a vision and heard a voice. Kerry had come to rescue me.
I’d just figured it out once I turned my back to the sun so I could see the screen, turned around again and low and behold – this scraggly looking person was about 20m in front of me.
My god – I’ve never been so glad to see someone and at the same time, wanted to bloody kill him. Naturally, I burst into tears and we hugged each other after he’d had some of the water .
Then the explanations as to how he “got lost” – my exclamations of relief that he was OK and I’d not had to call in a chopper to rescue him (and me because no way could I have got down again if I hadn’t found Des).
We worked our way back to “the tree” which had a very faint pink ribbon, which Des kept insisting stopped just short of the top platform and were non-existent once you were over the ridge. He was not lost! Then we made our very slippery way down the cliff…. Eventually back at the car, more water for us both and a bit of chill out time to get our thoughts and hearts back in place.
Back at the track it’s Kerry’s turn to drive and the Rock Bar is waiting. I got out to video the event. There she went, through the initial water section, and then fronting the Bar. Before long the Cruiser was like a leaping ninja and I was also jumping around to get the best video. Click here to see this on video.
I didn’t actually think the rock bar was that bad…. just got to do it at the right angle. But we did get a couple of dings on the running boards. Our right of passage so to speak.
We drove past the track to the Hidden Pools but probably should have gone down there. But we were recovering.
Then it was back through the various crossings and some of there are also recorded on the video – click here.
We turned right at Rosies Track and after 5-6km we turned down to see the Nudies Hot Springs. We had followed another car in and they had parked right up at the pool. We put on our swimmers and were soon in the water, floating in perfect temperatures. It is a small spring but the water was delightful.
After that is was back to the camp and a BBQ dinner for us. We told the staff what happened making the point that there needs to be more ribbons or markers up on top to make the trip simple. Not sure our message got through though.
Day 2
Back up at the office in the morning we selected our next adventure – a short one today we were told. Again we signed out.
We went up the Tawallah Track and got to the point where we can keep on this track or take the left hand track called the Scenic Tawallah Track – they merge later. We elected for the latter.
We came to a junction but with no signs to help us. We went left and were soon driving over a couple of steeper crossings. It was later that we realised that we had gone on the Crocodile Spring Loop. We got to the Crocodile Springs and they are really beautiful – a lovely expanse of still water reflecting the surroundings gum trees. Lovely place! But you cannot swim here – crocs.
The water crossing was interesting but quite ok.
Soon we were back where we started for the day, but this time we kept to the Tawallah Track rather than the scenic version, and were heading for the Waterslide. We often had a gate to go through.
We followed a couple of other cars. Close to the Waterslide they turned off and we kept going to the parking area (a sort of circular bit of cleared bush around a tree). Initially we walked about 200m to get to the bottom of the very rocky river system, and started walking up river. We followed the pink ribbons on the trees. The creek is bone dry and we walk over rocky outcrops and boulders heading another 300m or so up river. The key word is rocky.
Then we get to the Rockslide. There is no water on the slide, but a pool at the base. Not so exciting
We got the drone going – even thought it was hard to find a flat rock – and it was soon up and recording. I am still struggling to get used to flying this thing – lack of practice. We decide to bring it back and I hit Home which should have taken the drone back to the takeoff point.
But then it tried to land itself in a rocky area with no hope of success without fatal damage. I kept hitting up but it kept trying to go down until I saw an option on the iPad to cancel landing. I hit it and peace was restored and i got the drone very close – close enough for Kerry to catch it. How’s that! It was actually quite easy to catch – once Des got it low enough for me to reach – as long as the sun isn’t shining in your eyes.
We had been advised not to go on to the Indiana Falls. So we went further on up the track to see the Musterer’s Cave. It is all nice country to drive through with an occasional 4WD experience. But we found ourselves at the Arch, which meant that we had driven past the Cave – more lack of signposting.
The Arch is a massive natural rock arch formation in amongst other massive rock outcrops. We loved it there but it is best to let the photos do the talking.
From there we drove on to the Valley of the Springs. Approaching where we thought this might be, we saw the other 2 cars we had seen earlier parked off to the side. But shortly after that the track just stopped and we were faced with a jungle. We backtracked and I went to talk to the other people. The said that they had done exactly the same as us – there was nowhere to go.
We headed back to camp but did not go up to the Cave – the other people had found that but could not be bothered at this stage.
Day 3
We are going to take it easy this time – it’s our last day. We have picked a few rock pools we want to see which are close to the base camp. After talking to the staff we signed out and got going.
I should add here, that we think that for us, 5 nights is a little excessive so today will be our last day.
We went around the first half of the Crocodile Springs Loop and then up the road to Tawallah Pool.
First up is Tristan Pool and then a short walk to Wildfire Gorge. These are just stunning – simply begging us to get in for a dip. Which we do. Our instant favourite places at Lorella.
Further up the trail we come to Emerald Pool and Kerry is in the water almost before I stop the The Cruiser. It really is beautifully clear, and so wonderfully refreshing.
After pulling ourselves away from Emerald, we went up to Fossil Fern Pool. This did not quite have the sparkle of the others so we did not dip there.
We drove on to the end of the trail, where we saw a large pool, with a steady flow into a slightly lower pool. We took that to be the Tawallah Pool but Kerry found out later that the Tawallah Pool pool is about 600m past this unnamed pool. But there we no signs to tell us anything about the pools or ribbons on trees to suggest a pathway.
We decided to go back to Wildfire Gorge and get the drone up. We had a bit more success this time but I am far from happy at my efforts with the drone. To see the video, click here …. and I caught it again mid air as there were really no flat areas to land it safely.
On the way back we went through Crocodile Springs again – it really is a lovely place and we took a video as we drove through.
We spent the afternoon relaxing and preparing for the journey home. We reckon we are a bit short of fuel so buy 20L at an amazing $3.00/L. Yes it is expensive but we can also see how isolated this place is.
Day 4
This is back to Mataranka day and we face a long drive. It’s 130km to Cape Crawford on dirt, 267km on single lane bitumen to the Stuart Hwy, and then 161km on the Hwy – that’s 558kms to get through.
We got away at around 7.15 and the drive to Cape Crawford was uneventful. The road was mostly good dirt but with an occasions bad section. We had some lovely river crossing and took photos of the peaceful Batten Creek.
For the final few kms into Cape Crawford we were back on bitumen – it was like meeting an old friend! There we put in another 40L at $1.89/L. We also inflated the tyres for the bitumen run.
Soon after we saw a small herd of brumbies crossing the road.
The road was improving as we went west, with occasional sections with a lane in each direction.
Later we came up behind a road train sitting on about 90kmh. “Well, that’s it”, we thought, a slow old drive from here. But we soon came to a 2 lane section and Kerry gunned us past it.
As we approached the Hwy I started doing some mental arithmetic so see if we get back to Mataranka with the remaining fuel. We called in at the Hi-Way roadhouse but the diesel price was $1.79/L, so we pushed on trusting my calculations. At this point, I am seriously nervous about the calculations…. somebody in this car has, in the past, run out of fuel – not once, but twice.
It was an uneventful drive, and a peaceful one as I had slowed down to preserve fuel. About 25km out the fuel warning light came on and we went straight to the service station on arrival. The Cruiser took 120L which meant that there were still 18L in the tank. Perfect judgement!
To see photos related to this post, click here
To see the video we made from this post, click here