We had not been to Lakes Entrance before and knew little of the area. But we quickly began to appreciate the size of the waterways and how far they extend. Our Eco Cruise really drove that home. The town is well set out and busy: there are boats and fishers everywhere, we saw many birds, seals, dolphins and koalas, and despite the weather we really enjoyed it all. If we were a boat or fisher we probably would be happy to stay there for a much longer time.
We were in Lakes Entrance on 8, 9 & 10 February 2019
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting There
Cooma > Nimmitabel > Bombala > Cann River > Orbost > Lakes Entrance ~ 306kms
History
The Gunaikurnai First Nations people are the traditional owners of Gippsland. There are approximately 3,000 Gunaikurnai people, covering territory that includes the coastal and inland areas to the southern slopes of the Victorian Alps. The Tatungalung clan of the Gunaikurnai, one of five, lived near Lakes Entrance, extending along Ninety Mile Beach and about Lakes Victoria and Wellington from Lakes Entrance southwest to mouth of Merriman Creek, also on Raymond Island in Lake King.
To read about the lives and culture of the these First Nations people, click here.
Lakes Entrance is a major gateway to the Gippsland Lakes. The Lakes are a group of coastal lagoons and marsh environments that are separated from the sea by a barrier system of sand dunes and fringed on the seaward side by the Ninety Mile Beach. The main lagoons/lakes are fed by river systems in a catchment of approximately 20,000 square kilometres or 10 per cent of Victoria’s land area, and are connected to Bass Strait via a single permanent entrance. The Lakes and surrounding wetlands cover an area of approximately 600 square kilometres, the largest navigable network of inland waterways in Australia. They contain internationally significant wetlands and support a diverse range of flora and fauna.
The Scottish explorer, Angus McMillan, was the first European to reach Lake Victoria in 1840. In 1843 settlers arrived and cattle runs were established soon after. In 1858 the Georgina Smith became the first large vessel to enter the lakes from the ocean, sailing up the Tambo River with supplies for the Crooked River goldfields. By 1864 vessels were regularly using the inlet and a pilot boat, The Lady of the Lake, was used to help vessels through the narrow inlet.
A post office named Cunninghame was opened in 1870 and changed its name to Lakes Entrance in 1915. A railway line was completed from Melbourne to Sale in 1879. It boosted shipping activity with supplies, passengers and tourists arriving from far afield by steamer. Work started on a more stable and permanent, constructed entrance to the lakes in 1869. Commercial fishing began in 1878.
Oil was discovered 3 km east at Lake Bunga in 1924 and drilling continued to 1945. In the 1960s the first large fishmeal plant in Australia opened in the town. During the 1970s and 1980s the town’s deep sea fishing fleet became one of the most important in Australia. Its main catches are whiting, mullet, gurnard, flathead, gummy sharks, bream, rock lobster and scallops.
In 2010 the Victorian Government recognised the Kurnai Aboriginal people as the traditional owners of much of the land around Lakes Entrance. At the 2016 census, Lakes Entrance had a population of 4,810.
Day 1 – Fri 8 Feb – Cooma to Lakes Entrance
We woke to a clear, partly cloudy day, which was jumper cool to begin with. We got away at 7:45. It was a really pleasant drive over the treeless plains – driving through bald, rolling hills.
We were quickly in Nimmitabel, which looks a really interesting village. I once stayed in the old bank building in the middle of town which had been converted to a classy b&b. Good to see that was still there.
About 10km after Nimmitibll we turned right onto the Monaro Highway. The landscape was surprisingly green with lots and lots of sheep in all directions.
Bombala looks a lovely town. We had decided to stop but confusing signs to the van park and rest area made us miss the turn.
South of Bombala, trees began to appear on rugged hills. There were lots of evidence of ongoing forestry activities – such as big trucks loaded with sawn logs. We came up behind a massively laden truck, which fortunately turned off. Shortly after that we crossed into Victoria.
The road is pretty good – although a bit bumpy and curvy. Not many straight stretches for others to overtake us. But then we began the descent to the coast, a lovely drive through beautiful forests, but with some steep descents and tighter corners. As well, a gentle rain and mist provided an etherial backdrop. Nice drive.
There is not much at Cann River where we turned south onto the Princes Highway. The Highway is a good road with lots of overtaking lanes and many rest areas. At the first rest area south of the town we stopped for coffee/tea and to change drivers. It was a misty stop amongst the gums, but fortunately no rain.
We saw a sign for a tourist drive to the mouth of the Snowy River, so decided to take that detour. We hoped that as a tourist drive it would not be a dead end with us wondering how to get Mobi out. it was about 20km to Cape Conran, an interesting but not spectacular drive through the forests. At the cape we turned into what we thought was the car park and found things a bit tight for Mobi with lots of trees many with low branches. We saw a bit of space on one side and parked in there.
The beach was busy with a surf school. At our end there was the headland and it would have been good to have time to explore this. But the sky was dark and it had been raining. Looking east, the rest of the beach was quickly swallowed by the clouds and mist.
Back at the rig, we had to reverse Mobi out between parked cars and timber posts. Tricky but we got it out enough to get to the road, where we found ample parking for many caravans. If only there were signs before we went in telling us about turning a large vehicle.
We then drove on to Marlo, and were soon driving alongside the Snowy River estuary, which was surprisingly large. We stopped to look at where the river meets the ocean, where there were some interesting circular eddies and a few fishing boats out.
We drove through Marlo and back along the River to western end of Orbost but we did not go back into the town. But turning west on the Highway we crossed the Snowy River, which was quite substantial. Given that most of its headwaters are trapped in dams and diverted to the inland it must have once been a formidable river. On our right was a very old looking rail bridge looking in pretty poor state but with a big “Save Our Bridge” sign on it. Strangely, the bridge was called the “Snowy River Bridge”. Very sad to see it in such a state of disrepair. The entrance to the ocean was quite amazing – so vast with so many huge eddies – maybe tidal races. As Des said above, must have been huge river back in the day.
From there it was only 50km or so to Lakes Entrance. We had picked the Woodbine Tourist Park – and rang through and booked – because of its good rating on WikiCamps. We had a quick checkin, although there were a number of RVs arriving at the same time. We had been told that it was almost fully booked so we could not get a drive-through site. But there was no mention in the Wiki reviews that it was such a small park with very tight bays. Kerry drove and I guided, and we had to get the rig hard up against the end fence to try to get enough room to swing Mobi in. Fortunately there was no van on the opposite side of the road otherwise it would have been very tricky. Packed in like sardines, this is not our idea of caravanning.
Other than the cramped sites, the Park is quite good. Absolutions are ok and clean, and the camp kitchen is fantastic. The Park is also a very short walk to town. We were told that if we show our receipt we would get 10% discount at the bowling club across the road, and as we were staying for 3 nights we also got a $10 voucher. The Park is part of the Top chain which we had joined, so we got 10% discount to $94 for the 3 nights.
We drove around the immediate area (North Arm).
We then to the tourist formation office which directed us across to Bullock Island (a constructed island) where we had been told we may see some dolphins.
First we went to the Fisherman’s co-op and got some prawns . But they did not have much local fish. But it was late in the day and they had probably just sold out I suspect. Further around we got to the viewing area for the entry channel where there were lots of people fishing and 4 ladies with very long zoom lenses on their cameras, clearly looking for the dolphins. The Eco cruise boat was sailing around the entrance. The we saw the dolphins with 3 of them jumping out of the water together. I just a photo but it is not so clear. My zoom lens did not stack up agains those of the women, who were rigid when taking their photos. A pair of black swans glided majestically past.
Back at the park, which was completely full (how are we going to get out?) we relaxed. We enjoyed the prawns and Kerry cooked a pizza for dinner.
Day 2 – Sat 9 Feb – Lakes Entrance
We woke to a grey sky and the promise of rain, forecast especially for the afternoon. We had booked the Eco tour for the afternoon.
But first we went into town and walked across the footbridge to Ninety Mile Beach. At the surf club we started walking on the track to the Lake’s Entrance that we had seen yesterday, where the dolphins were. However the path was made of loose sand so it was hard work. As well, there was not a view of the water – just the trees. So when we came to a path to the beach we took that.
Ninety Mile Beach disappeared in both directions – pretty much as expected. We walked further west for a bit but decided not to go all the way to the Entrance as we would see it from the Eco Cruise boat in the afternoon. We walked back up the beach to the surf club, on the way passing the sand art of a creative soul.
We also picked up some plastic and other rubbish. That is something that is always there. Today, tissues were the most common rubbish we collected. But also a couple of plastic straws, cigarette butts and a long ice-tube.
Back in town we went to the Shell Museum which, lo and behold, was full of shells of all shapes and sizes. While they call this a museum, it is in essence, a shop. Some lovely shells though. Quite reasonably priced too.
We then walked through the town and onto part of the jetty. This is very much a boating town and there are so many cruise and fishing boats.
Back at the van park we talked to some others there about the forecast storms. The said they were going to leave their awning out but put on additional guy ropes. We did the same after lowering the awning to as low as possible. With the edge de-flappers and the rafters, we thought it should be ok.
At 12.45 we assembled at the Eco Cruise jetty as dark clouds gathered.
We had felt the air cool down rapidly as we left the car. There were quite a few people going on the cruise and as the departure time of 1:00 approached, heavy rain started. We were told to board the boat and ran for it, with Kerry in the lead – one thing her mother had taught her was how to get to the head of a queue. But as we began to board the skipper told us to stop. Obviously he wasn’t ready for people to come on board – so, still at the head of the crowd, but dry in the boat, a couple of us waited till he finally said to go through. Straight upstairs to the dry cabin and got a couple of good seats with great views.
Once underway, the wind and rain intensified and the skipper told us that there was an intense weather front all across the eastern coastline. The rain would ease he promised us although we had to be dubious as we looked at the passing scenery through wet glass. We felt sorry for the people out the back who could hardly see a thing through the plastic clears.
We went out to the Entrance – the skipper explained that this is the only outlet/ for the entire lake system. This inlet was built in the late 1800s to provide a direct route into the lakes rather than the windy natural inlet. The natural inlet closed soon after the constructed entrance was built. Yesterday we had seen the Eco boat going out through the entrance to the Ocean – but no way this is going to happen to us today. The interface between the Entrance water and the sea is extremely rough. But we do get near and spot some seals playing in the rough water. The skipper said that we would have another look on the return trip.
The Cruise took us around some of the islands closer to Lakes Entrance up as far as Metung. Fraser Island is privately owned having recently sold for $3.6M, but cannot be developed further – there is a guesthouse there – because of flooding risks. On another private island only the ruins of the early settlement remain. The skipper explained that when the early settlers arrived they put their cattle onto the Islands as the mainland was so densely forested. However, once substantial land areas were cleared then the stock were moved to the mainland and the Island were no longer needed.
The skipper provided a running commentary as we pottered around against the storm, but especially telling us about the birdlife. There was an incredible variety of birds feeding off the lakes, even in this weather.
Around Metung we could see how the north shore of the mainland is developing with a base of older and original homes but also a number of massive new homes, many just holiday homes – Melbourne is only a few hours away. It was here that the rain eased and then stopped. A few of us ventured out onto the upper rear deck for photos but it was absolutely freezing out there.
Then we were presented with freshly back scones and cream – absolutely delicious.
On the return journey we saw a couple of the lovely original homesteads on the escarpment, and a lovely schooner sitting pretty on a mooring below the houses.
Then we were joined by a pod of dolphins which decided to play alongside the boat. This was amazing and some were swimming along on the bow wave . There were also a couple of juveniles – brilliant to see so close. The skipper tried to keep a bit of distance from the pod but they followed the boat for ages. There was also a baby dolphin – very young. Only about 1 metre long. The dolphins are a joy – they have so much fun and lighten our day.
Back at the Entrance we had left the dolphins behind, but went out again to the turmoil where the outflow met the ocean. The skipper did extremely well to get the boat in close and we could see quite a few seals playing in the rough water. But the boat could not stay there for long and he turned off home. As we went back down The Entrance channel, we saw the dolphins making for the outlet and the sea.
It was a great end to the tour and everyone was delighted – especially after such a bad start. The skipper told us that another short storm was forecast so we got back to Mobi quickly to see that was happening. The first thing we noticed was that all vans had their awnings rolled up. We quickly did the same as the wind was really picking up.
That evening we went to the bowling club for dinner. We were very surprised to be asked if we had reservations, and then told it was pretty much booked out. It was a Saturday night but we had never encountered this before in a club. However, one woman told us she had just prepared a table for 2 that we could get at 6:30. Which we did. Nobody has any expectations at a bowling club but I have to say that my backstrap of lamb was top rate, quite delicious. It was served with an excellent salad and some flatbread – a truely excellent meal. Kerry’s half sized schnitzel paled in comparison. The schnitzel was really tasty actually – much nicer than a normal club meal.
Back at Mobi we had an early night. Ridiculously, we had to put the air-con onto warm it was so cold… but slept like logs.
Day 3 – Sun 10 Feb – Out of town exploring
It was a very cold morning, or at least it felt that way. No rain but a cloudy sky to start with. We are getting out of town today with Kerry especially keen to get to Paynesville and then onto Raymond Island to see koalas in the wild.
But first we stopped at the lookout just over the bridge heading west and not far up the road. It was great to get an aerial perspective of where we had cruised yesterday. We were looking right over the Entrance, and then around to the channels we sailed the day before.
Then we went to the Nyerimilang Heritage Park which has magnificent views and a rich variety of plant and birdlife The highlight is Nyerimilang Homestead in a delightful rose garden setting on a cliff top above the Lakes. An amazing house which was unfortunately not open (it was a Sunday). The rose garden is planted with old fashioned tea roses… such beautiful scents.
We walked down to the water for some great views of the channels we had sailed.
From there we drove to Metung to see the town we had sailed past yesterday. It is a pretty ritzy place and we stopped to check out the end of the isthmus where the lakes meet. There, the houses on this narrow land strip have different lake views from each side of the house.
We next drove through some interesting country to get to Paynesville crossing over the Tambo River.
We are dead lucky to get a 2-hour parking spot only 50m from the ferry over to Raymond Island. We quickly grabbed our gear and jumped onto the ferry just before it departed. It’s a free ride for pedestrians.
The walking trail of about 1.2kms starts opposite the ferry and we spent the next hour or so koala spotting. Our count was 23. Some were just a blob of sleeping fur, some were quite active. All were truely beautiful.
To see a video of there amazing creatures, click here
I spotted a couple of women, one climbing a tree stump to reach a juvenile koala while the other took photos. I said to them “what are you doing? Get down from there”… European accent replied “But I saw other people doing it”, to which I replied, “just because other people are stupid, you don’t have to be too, now get down from there”, which she did, reluctantly. Stupid bloody woman!!!!! I spoke to a local couple walking their dog and they were going to keep an eye on this pair too.
On the ferry back there were just so many jelly fish in the water.
Back on the mainland we grabbed some lunch and then drove to the Mitchell River NP, in particular to see the Den of Nargun. It was a really nice drive and we saw some vast areas of vegetables being grown, before we were in the mountains.
In Aboriginal beliefs, the Nargun is a large female creature who lives in a cave behind a waterfall in the Mitchell River. The Den of Nargun is a place of great cultural significance to the Gunaikurnai people, especially the women. Traditionally men were not allowed down to the Den of Nargun. Gunaikurnai men respected this traditional law and still do today.
Stories were told around campfires about how the Nargun would abduct children who wandered off on their own. These stories served the dual purpose of keeping children close to the campsite and ensuring that people stayed away from the sacred cave. The Den of Nargun may have been used for women’s initiation and learning ceremonies. As a sign of respect people are asked not to enter the cave.
We started the descent into the gorge below and it was very steep. Kerry quickly opted out and returned to the top.
The gorge was a dry creek bed when I was there, quite beautiful in its own way.
From the base it is a short walk to the Den. About 80m before the Den there is a large sign outlining the significance of the site and asking people to view it quietly and not enter the cave. The Den is quite a dramatic setting with a large water hole, a cave behind it and stepped ridges above it. And 2 women walking around inside the cave. I pointed out to them that we had been asked not to enter the cave and they left. I then sat in splendid silence, the only person there. It is indeed a very special place and would have been spectacular with water flowing in the creek.
To see a video of the Den of Nargun, click here
Walking out I caught up with a couple who were going extremely slowly – I had passed them as I walked in. They said they were going out via the Mitchell River rather than straight up the hill again, which had been very challenging for the lady. I was doing the same walk out so I set off wondering how long it may take them. The walk to the Mitchell River required going up quite a steep hill then down to the river, where a section of rocky rapids formed a spectacular waterhole.
From there I walked up the gorge from the river but saw no signs marking the track. At the top of the gorge I had to clamour up a number of platforms until I got to the hard rock face and a small waterhole. Initially I could not see the track out, but then saw it off to the side – a narrow and steep track up the side fo the gorge on a dirt base.
It was a tricky little climb and as I got to the top I though of the couple behind me and realised that they had no hope of getting up there. So I went back to tell them to go back and return by the path they had come down. I met a young fellow who thought he had seen them. But I walked back to the base of the track without seeing them – they had obviously taken the more direct route put, albeit a very steep one. I caught up with them near the top. They had really struggled and were very thankful for my efforts to save them from the other trail. I was pretty exhausted by then and running out of water. But we had plenty in the car. I’m so glad I didn’t do this walk. Des came back completely red in the face. He finished off my water very quickly.
From there we drove back to Mobi, but loving the large church in Bairnsdale,
We got back to the van park at about 4.45 – a long but really enjoyable day.
To see photos from this blog click here
To see a video of the amazing koalas, click here
To see a video of the Den of Nargun, click here