Kimberley Cruise

Imagine a holiday in the most beautiful location on a small luxury cruise boat, where you fished for your dinner, gathered oysters and caught mud crabs; you cruised through the most amazing archipelago providing glorious aquamarine waters and gold, red and black islands and cliffs; you took a helicopter flight over the world renowned Horizontal Falls and then boated through the narrow inlet; you watched the water tumbling off the 5m high Montgomery Reef in a millions water falls; you strolled along a lovely sand cay that appeared before you eyes as the tide dropped; you swam in clear rock pools beneath tumbling waterfalls; you ate the most wonderful meals; you were tended by a brilliant crew; and you had some wonderful people to share it with you. We have been fortunate enough to just have that holiday on a Kimberley cruise, and it was simply incredible – a trip we will never, ever forget.

This is a big post as it covers a BIG trip. The cruise was on the Kimberley Pearl, between 28 July and 4 August 2018. Click here for details.

Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia

Day 1

We woke early, so we had plenty of time to get ourselves ready before our 8.15 pickup. Which arrived right on time. We picked up another 4 couples and went out to the airport.

We had been a bit worried about the weight restriction of 10kg per person for the flight, but it was not an issue – we think it is not a full trip. Some of the passengers are driving up to Cape Leveque – good luck to them as we have heard it is a tough road. After weigh in, both our gear and ourselves, we went out to our plane. It’s a bit unusual – called a caravan, looks a bit square and can seat about 10.

The flight to Cape Leveque is about 50min, and we generally kept towards the west coast of the peninsular. We can kind of track the drive we did to James Price Point, as well as some of the lovely bays and cliffs we saw. There is not much in the middle, except the Cape Leveque Road, standing our bright red against the green surrounds, and mostly straight as a die.

At Cygnet Bay – a rich red dirt airstrip in the bush – we get picked up for the 10min drive to the pearl farm. The bus dropped off the all male passengers returning to Broome after their cruise. It was a great landing considering it was dirt and a single engine plane. The 4wd track from the airstrip to the pearl farm was considerably rougher.

There is only the working pearl farm at Cygnet Bay, and its not a glamorous place. We went up to the restaurant for morning tea and get our first view out over to the Buccaneer Archipelago at the northern end of King Sound.

We had a tour of the pearl farm, which was really fascinating. It started with the history. Going back thousands of years, various civilisations used the mother-of-pearl shells for a variety of things such as ceremonial items, decoration, etc. Then they became critical for making buttons, and this was the prime purpose in the 1880s and early 1900s – to get and use the shells. But then plastic was invented and that was that for the shells. But the focus changed to the pearls themselves. Strange to think really that the mother of pearl was so important and any pearls found were a “bonus” rather than core business.

In Australia, Broome became one key centre of the pearling industry and at one time supplied the most product internationally. Then WW2 came along and the pearl luggers were either destroyed or brought south to stop their potential use by any Japanese invading army. That really decimated the industry and recovery was slow.

The next debate was all about cultured pearls compared to natural pearls. The Japanese were the only people who had perfected the art of cultured pearling, and in Australia this was initially banned, or the pearls were not recognised as genuine pearls. But as natural pearls are such a rarity, the culture technique was perfected at Cygnet Bay and this really saved the industry. The area has the largest and most productive pearls in the world – the largest was over 22mm in diameter, unable to be valued. The current farm is being managed by the same family that set it up in the 1960s.

We went to the productions sheds, where a set of shells that had been seeded 3 years ago was being looked at to see what they were doing. Our guide opened one shell and amazingly, there was a little pearl inside. She brought that up to the gallery for valuations. It actually wasn’t so little, not perfectly round and slightly smaller than the ones in my strands.

She explained the valuation process to us based on 5 criteria – lustre, colour, shape, surface and size. She showed us some good examples of each, including one near perfect 19mm pearl valued at $60,000. There was also a string of pearls formed by the nacre. These were natural or “unseeded” pearls – nowhere near round, but all shapes. This is extremely rare and valued at $300,000 and is part of the owners collection. The little pearl she had found in the shell was valued at $53.

I got many pearls when we lived in Viet Nam, so we did not need any more.

After lunch we assembled at 2:00 for transport to the Kimberley Pearl (KP), our home for the next 7 days. We had been gradually getting to know our fellow passengers: Mel & Rod, Paola & Steve, Pauline & Phil, Dianne, and the “youngsters” Solene & Brett. Brett is Dianne’s son and he and Solene are taking 2-3 years to drive across each continent. The warm-up trip for them is Perth to Brisbane. Rod used to skipper the KP so well and truely knows the ropes.

We had expected to get on a tender to our boat but instead got on an amphibious vehicle. We puttered down the beach and then shot out to the KP.

The Kimberley Pearl is a restored and refurbished pearling vessel, now cruising the Kimberley Coast. It has six air-conditioned cabins, 1 on the upper deck, 2 on the main deck and a further 3 below. All with ensuites and aircon. There is an extra shower and washroom facilities on the main deck. The spacious galley and main deck extending to the rear is where we would spend most of our time. There is also wide lounge seating on the upper deck.

We were introduced to the crew, and quickly got to know them well in the next few days. Skipper Sam is a smart young fellow mature beyond his age, but is really a big kid at heart. Georgie is the happy dynamo who never stops helping us and always with a smile. Lenny is the mercurial chef and constantly served us food to die for. And last, but by no means least, as we quickly found out, was Clive, the larrikin raconteur, who kept us entertained throughout. We could not have asked for a better team.

We were all taken to our rooms and we were delighted to get the only cabin on the top deck. The cabin is small but will do us fine – only real problem is lack of storage, but we can cope with that. We were introduced to the fridge where all our our cold drinks are stored, with our red wine under the day bed. After the safety talk from Sam the skipper, we upped anchor and headed out into the Archipelago – doesn’t that sound exciting. It’s a great boat – lots of living space – aft upstairs is huge, as is the foredeck and there is a massive area downstairs out the back as well as inside.

The islands are amazing, just so many. As we sail we see some patches of perfectly calm water but then patches that look a real mess, as the tides rush around and between underwater cliffs. Then the sunset put on a spectacular show for us, followed by the rise of the massive moon that is visible this week. Isn’t nature wonderful.

We had a delicious meal of fish, roast beef, roast potatoes, pumpkin and salad. And of course good company. After dinner Sam set out the agenda for the next few days, telling us that everything has to be fitted in around the tides. They are so massive here – changing at 25mm per minute (think about that). This means that the KP, a large single engine displacement boat, cannot work against them. So tomorrow morning we have to be out by 7 so as to get to the oyster beds before the tide rises too much. Fine by us but the crew have to start at 5am.

To see photos related to Day 1, click here

Day 2

As promised we are in the tinnies by 7, off to the exposed rocks, black from their continual cycle of submergence to water and exposure to light. Armed with a hammer and chisel, we hack away until we have got enough for dinner. Kerry found one oyster on a beautiful shell – downed the oyster and kept the shell.

But in the short time we had been there – maybe 45min – the little beach we had landed on was now up to our knees (or mid thighs in Kerry’s case).

Back on board we had a terrific breakfast – poached eggs with smashed avocado on turkish, with cooked chorizo slices and a tomato salsa on top, with a dribble of wonderful sauce. Then we spent the next few hours sailing.

We passed Cockatoo mining island where the iron ore is so pure you could weld it. The ore is loaded at the island and then shipped straight to China. The ore body is deep, about 100m (below sea level) and is now coming to the end of the deposit. We passed another mine as well but work at this one has stopped for now because the seawall failed flooding the mining areas. An insurance claim has been settled and the walls are being rebuilt at massive cost.

Brett had brought a drone with him and has shared with us some stunning photos he had taken. I was so jealous that I had left our drone behind. He shared some great photos.

But in the afternoon tragedy struck. He had launched it from the front deck but found it difficult to get it down onto a moving boat. In the end Solene tried to catch it but missed and it smashed into the front of the bridge. It was not too badly damaged, but the camera will need fixing. But that was the end of the drone for the trip – Brett not at all happy at the lost opportunities.

Later in the morning we arrived near the Horizontal Falls – one of the highlights of the trip. The falls are caused by 2 inland seas that flood at high tide and then need to empty at low tide. The seas are large containing a mass of water, and when they empty the only exit points are the two small gaps in the mountains. Water gushes through the openings.

We took a helicopter ride to see the Falls from the air – $150 for a 10 minute trip over the Falls and Cyclone Ck. We were in the first flight and lucky me, got the co-pilots seat. It was an amazing flight and we did a figure of 8 over the Falls so that everyone could get a good view. It was incredible to seen the water surging through the very small opening. We can see why they call it the “horizontal” falls.

Cyclone Ck is a perfect natural harbour with a narrow entrance – a perfect refuge if there is a cyclone on its way.

I videoed the flight – click here to see video.

After that we had lunch and waited for the Falls to subside a bit before we went over to go through in the tinnies. Sam took the first boat in just to check it out and determine what was possible. We were in the 3rd boat with Clive at the helm and it was incredible. We only went through the wider gap, and we could see the water rushing around the edges and forcing it’s way through – literally running down hill. The water was mad, swirling in all directions and with holes in the surface at different points. Think of a washing machine on steroids. Through the wider gap, we approached the small gap but we could see that it would be impossible to get through – there was a step in the water levels between the inner inland sea and the outer one. It was crazy. There were small whirlpools everywhere – although smallish in diameter, there was one that was a couple of feet deep at the centre. Brought to mind Captain Nemo!!!

Clive told us that at peak discharge time there would be about a 2m step at the narrow gap and the inland sea between the 2 gaps would be a mass of whitewater, foam, holes – a complete mess. The force would be incredible.

From there the tinnies took us to explore Cyclone Ck – just the place where you need to be if there is a cyclone approaching. It is a lovely waterway with deepwater access and protective mountains all around. Some really interesting geology.

Back on the boat, we steamed to Dugong Bay for an overnight anchor. Dinner was excellent – chicken and duck.

To see photos related to Day 2, click here

Day 3

We were awake at 6.30 for a continental breakfast and out in the tinnies at 7 for our first fishing exploits. We had to get out there at low tide. We were with Clive as our guide and tutor, Mel and Rod as our companions. We went a long way from the KP until we came to a creek system and headed a good way up that. Clive got out the bait net and with Rod at the helm we quickly had enough to fish with. Clive took the tinny up to a rock face and told us how to fish there – as it was a rock base we just had to drop the line to the bottom and hold it there. We were quickly into it, and got a few good ones, including a very large blue nosed salmon caught by Kerry, some Mangrove Jack and Fingermark Bream. When fingermark bream grow some more, they become Gold Snapper amazingly.

Clive was great, baiting our lines and making any repairs. He has a wicked tongue on him at times and he certainly gave us a friendly lashing when we missed a chance to hook a fish, and as we struggled to haul one in. “Lift the rod, now wind him in on the down stroke” was the constant call when we had one hooked. Or he would berate us if we lost one off the line – “You lost it. Again” – or got snagged – all in good fun.

We moved around the creek system to try different rock outcrops. At one point we followed a little tributary up to some beautiful cliffs until we got to a large dry waterfall – the black coloured rock. It would be brilliant to see this in full flow. There was a pool at the base which would fill at high tide so would contain some good sized fish waiting for the tide to turn – but we ran out of water about 20m from the pool. All in all, we got a pretty good haul of salmon and fingermarks.

Back at the KP we had morning tea – a very yummy lemon slice, I could so easily get used to this. Then we got in the tinnies and went to another bay, to the Alexandria Thermal Springs. Unfortunately, there were other boats at the access point so we had to find another way in to the pathway to the springs. There was a party of 7 or 8 people in the lower pool so we pushed on to the upper pool. The pathway was partially through the stream between the pools and at times over rocks. Not an easy track for many. But the pool was glorious and warm and we were all very quickly in.

On board the KP, we upped anchor and sailed for Leadline Creek, enjoying lunch on the way. Near the anchor point, 2 of the tinnies took 8 of us trawling for Queen fish. Again, I had the fun of Clive’s insightful comments. He set up 2 rods with lures and set them at the stern. We weren’t at all successful with the fishing, but had a great couple of hours motoring about the waterways, through the islands and rock outcrops, enjoying a beer or 2. We also enjoyed a stunning sunset on the water – glorious colours.

We got back on board the KP at about 5, for some pre-dinner nibblies. Dinner was again superlative with both fresh fish, caught by our own little hands, and kangaroo (delicious). I loved the beetroot salad, and then the rhubarb tart for dessert. As usual Sam then ran through all we would be doing the next day. We were all exhausted and it was an early night.

To see photos related to Day 3, click here

Day 4

We were up at 6.30 for a cooked breakfast – scrambled eggs with mushrooms and chopped bacon and sauce on Turkish. At 7 we were back in the tinnies and were again teamed with Mel and Rod, under the critical eye of Clive. It was near the turn of the tide and he took us to one of the islands with some large exposed mud flats. Again, Rod took the helm and Clive the bait net as he cast for some mullet, which would be used as live bait – we were after some barramundi. But, as Clive concluded, never has he worked so hard to get such a pathetic dozen or so mullet, which were also quite small. We saw a couple of crocs nearby, watching us, or laughing at us, as we crawled along looking for a mullet shoal.

Finally, we had enough to start the chase for the elusive barra. This was a very different fishing technique compared to yesterday’s fishing over rocks, giving Clive ample opportunity to chide us for our efforts. Which were many. He would cast the bait to a likely looking spot in one the channels through the mud flats (where the crocs were), and then we would wait until the bait was taken, let the line run out for a good few meters, then start to haul in the big ones. But we got nothing from of all our efforts. Clive thought is was because there had been a very full moon this week which allows the barras to hunt all night. So they were probably all full up.

After this we tried a couple of more spots without luck, before switching back to fishing over rocks as per yesterday. This brought a rapid change of pace with some more salmon and Fingermarks. But in between those we had 4 or 5 sharks, some taking the line and bait, some having to be freed from the line or the line cut. Also some catfish, which Clive would not allow in the boat but thumped them on the edge and threw them back. The final indignity came with I caught a very small cod. “That’s it’” said Clive, “we have descended to this rubbish. Pack up, we are going home.”

Again because of the tides we went straight into our next activity – to explore Leadline Creek. This is a beautiful place, with a wonderful motor in, through the mangroves with a backdrop of majestic cliffs. We really loved it.

About halfway in we turned to the left, down a break in the mangroves to get to the rock outcrops. There we walked up to a low shallow pool with a small waterfall down to the sea. We walked over a ridge and came to a large bush camp – with an old stove, kitchen utensils, a bed, chair, etc. Apparently it was used by a criminal as a hide out, not so much from the police but from other gangs. This was close to the swimming hole, which was large, with plenty of room for us all. It was a tad chilly getting in, but not really cold.

Back in the tinnies, we followed the Creek down to its endpoint – a stunning waterfall over 3 tiers. The lowest tier is water bubbling its way over a rock face to the sea below, the middle tier drops to a small water hole, and the top tier drops to a much larger pool. It’s a lovely place but much of it is in shade so the photos won’t look great.

We walked up beside the falls, and then along the upper creek to another great rock pool. This is quite large and deep with a waterfall at one end. So refreshing.

On the way out we take a group photo – and what a fine mob of folk we look!.

We have had a big day and it is after 2 by the time we get back to KP. Lunch was the salmon we had caught, which was quite delicious. Then we had a well earned nap as we steamed to our anchor point at 3-Ways. Another great dinner from Lenny – fish (barra and salmon), lamb ribs and salad.

To see photos related to Day 4, click here

Day 5

We had a bit of a later start today as low tide occurs later each day. But the crew has to up anchor at 5 to get to our morning activity area. We had a continental breakfast at 7, then out in the tinnies at 7.30. We were with Clive and Rod, as Mel wanted a day off after a bit too much sun yesterday. We made for a creek and once again Clive was throwing the bait net looking for mullet. The first couple of throws we got nothing, then we got a lot of small fish, followed by the larger ones we needed for barra. It is right on low tide so there was not much happening – other than a couple of crocs checking us out.

Clive took us over to some tree stumps in the creek telling us that this is perfect barra country. But alas, we fished for about 2 hours with nary a fish to show for it. One shark that bit through Rod’s line was all the excitement we got.

We then decided to go get some Jacks as a nil tally would have been very embarrassing. Just up the creek was a long rock outcrop and that is where the action was. Not much happening initially but then it all started – at one stage we were onto something almost as soon as our bait hit bottom. Many were legally too small, many were not big enough for our self imposed standard – that is how cocky we were at this stage – many were the wrong type – cod mostly. We ended up with 10 good sized Jacks, which was the most for the day.

In the middle of it all, Rod was up on the small foredeck telling us a funny story at the same time as he was also trying to bring in a large Jack. He started laughing at his story, and started to lose balance. Then, in he want over the bow. He managed to grab the bow rail and steadied himself before Clive rushed to haul him in. Then we all had a darn good laugh – if only Mel had been there. It all happened so quickly, but almost in slow motion as well… so funny.

Back on the KP we learnt that crab pots had been put out in the morning, we are all hoping for a pot full of mud crabs. We were the last tinny home so we went out with Sam to check the pots and bring them in. There were 10 pots in all and we took it in turns to haul them in and get the prize muddy. We got about 6 big ones to add to the tally, and tossed a good few back as being too small. This made a great starter for dinner the next night.

At about 2, we went in the tinnies to Sapphire Falls. It’s another run in amongst the mangroves, turning left about half way down into a break in the trees. We quickly came to massive sandstone cliffs, with a little waterfall and rock pool to the left as we motored in. We got out onto the rocks and clambered up to look at the pool, knowing this was not for us as there could be crocs about. From there, we climbed up the rock face on the right hand side, over the ridge then along a rocky creek bed. After about 100m we came to Sapphire Falls and rock pool – really lovely, with a good waterfall and a little rock island in the middle. Most of us got in for a swim – Kerry stayed out to sit in the shade and watch.

The highlight was Lennie who gave us a Tarzan impersonation, climbing to a rock platform using tree roots to haul himself up. Then he jumped into the pool.

Getting back into the tinnies proved a lot harder than getting out, as the tide had gone down and the rocks we had climbed onto were now much too high. So we tracked further out under the cliffs and were able to get on board from another rock outcrop.

In the late afternoon we went on a scenic cruise up Red Cone Creek in 2 tinnies with a few cold ones in an esky. After looking around the creek and a couple of tributaries, we hitched together for a drink. Clive kept us entertained as he always does with lots on information about the area, how the creek got its name (a red cone shaped rock, funnily enough) and a litany of very funny stories. A really enjoyable afternoon.

As we motored back to the KP, the sun was setting and we got some glorious views of the intense red line of the sky. Would you ever get sick at looking at this? I doubt it!

The KP was all lit up when we got back – we were having a long-table dinner on the top rear deck, under the stars. Sam and Lenny had done a great job – it looked terrific. Pride of place at the table was a massive bottle of Margaret River Rose. Brett and Solene had brought this up especially for this dinner – it had been given to them by a business contact, so it was a lovely gesture on their part.

Dinner was again superb, with a spicy prawn entree, rack of lamb and chocolate mousse. He is very good this Lenny fellow. The stars did their twinkling thing, aided and abetted by the wonderful Rose, and we had a great evening.

To see photos related to Day 5, click here

Day 6

At 4am the crew upped anchor for the run to Montgomery Reef, getting there at 6.30. Fortunately the noise of the engine and raising the anchor did not wake me. We were anchored close to the Reef, and Sandy Cay, a very long sand bar that gets exposed at low tide.

We were very surprised to see a number of other cruise boats anchored, and a large international cruise ship also nearby. We had only seen 1 or 2 other boats so far, so this was unexpected – not that it mattered as the area is so vast.

We had a cooked breakfast of eggs Benedict, which was just what I needed after a night of merriment. At 8, we got in the tinnies and made for the Reef. This is an absolute wonder of nature, and we had never even heard of it before. The reef is vast, hundreds of square kms, and as the tide drops much of the reef surface, which is flat, is gradually exposed. Incredibly, the reef suffers no sun damage as it has developed its own 50+ sun screen – very clever, old Mother Nature.

The Reef would be exposed to a height of 5m on that day. To many, it looks as the Reef is pushing up through the water, but it is the water dropping. When this happens, water from all over the reef flows to the edges and then cascades in millions of tumbling waterfalls to the sea. Motoring up alongside the face of the reef we were just gobsmacked by what we saw – every 20m or so there was a waterfall taking millions of litres of water back to the decreasing sea level.

We motored up “Turtle Alley” and on either side there were just so many falls. Some were relatively small, others were quite large with multiple sources fo water. And they were running with tremendous force – Sam took the tinny right into one and had to used nearly all of the engine’s power to stay in place. We also saw some turtles – they would stick their heads up every now and again.

At the end of the Alley, 2 large channels come together, and the water here is a bit crazy as it is moving so quickly. Sam turned the engine to idle and we drifted back down the Alley very quickly indeed.

Video of the Reef is included in the video for this post – click here

After that bit of excitement, we motored over to Sandy Cay, ostensibly to play some cricket. This is a beautiful place and we all took lots of photos as the combination of colours is stunning. Oh, for a drone.

Many of us wandered off along the Cay, others simply looked for shells. Then we realised that the tide was actually coming in very fast with the sand gradually being covered by water. Like many games of cricket, ours was washed out, but by high tide. I gathered a collection of “silver dollars” as well as a few other pretty shells. Amazing how you can still hear the ocean in even the smallest of the shells.

As we motored away from the Cay, our big kid skipper Sam could not help himself and used his motor to spray Georgie and her boat.

The rest of the day was spent motoring back west as we had turned for home. We watched a video about the Kimberleys, and then Sam put on a video from the early 1950s – Northern Safari I think it was called. It’s about an expedition made by a couple, and her sister, to the Gulf in an old Dodge or some such car, with a little box trailer. And a fox terrier called Tiger who terrorised anything that moved. And a dinghy made out of 5mm ply. This was a real hoot, and kept us in stitches as we watched their antics. They seemed to cause mayhem wherever they want, shooting down a tree as they had forgotten an axe, and trapping and shooting many crocs, sharks and dugong – all the the name of research or education. They got stuck crossing rivers, swamped by the bull dust, and had to make many running repairs. In their tiny ply dinghy they crossed mountainous seas to get to remote islands. Everything seemed wickedly exaggerated, especially at the end when they included footage of all sorts of animals when they were driving through WA, such as the Tassie Devil, which was a very long way from home.

That evening we had the mud crabs on the front deck and they were stunning. Dinner was beef wellington.

To see photos related to Day 6, click here

Day 7

After a continental breakfast, most of us went out in the tinnies for a last fish, although a few took a rest day. I was with Gerogie at the helm, Dianne, Paola and Steve. Georgie rigged up a couple of lines and started to troll. I was starting to think that trolling was the most useless way to fish when Georgie saw that we had a strike. She passed me the line and I hauled in a trevally. As it was the last day and we had no need for the fish, she released it. That was all we got fish wise, but we had a lovely potter through some beautiful scenery.

At about 9:30 we left for Cone Bay, lunching on fish and salad as we went. In the afternoon most of us got into the tinnies and we motored down to see a bush camp and have a last swim in a waterhole. It was a short motor across to a beautiful rocky bay where there was a water supply pipe coming down the rock face and into the sea. This is a water supply for a small rocky island just down the coast, on which there is a barra farm.

We climbed up a rock face to get to the camp. This was the most difficult climb – not far, just difficult, especially as my kayaking shoes were virtually useless in providing support – my foot moved around inside them on sloping rocks. I threw them out back at the KP. We were amazed when we got to the camp. Although getting overgrown, we could see some walls that were more like bits of art than structural. They were decorated with the bottoms of glass bottles, and everything was curved and colourful. I would love to know who lived there and why.

We went back to the water hole near the bay. This is quite small and not deep enough to swim. But we had a good soak, watching the antics of the tiny prawn-like creatures that inhabit the pool.

Back in the tinnies we motored around the barra farm – so many massive circular holding pens. I was quite surprised to see it there as they can cause severe pollution problems. It is apparently owned by a Chinese company and there are plans for a massive expansion.

Back on board some people opted to watch the outrageous Northern Safari again. We had pre-dinner nibbles, and then fish and salads for dinner, followed by churros for a late dessert. Thanks again Lenny, you are a star. There was a glorious sunset as there were a few clouds in the sky.

To see photos related to Day 7, click here

Day 8

Our final morning – so sad. We packed and the amphibious vehicle came to take us off at about 9:00.

There we said goodbye to Dianne, Solene and Brett as they were spending a few days around Cape Leveque. We had a quick look at the pearl shop and bought a shell rack – 4 pearl shells in a black roped rack. It will look good out on our side terrace. Then it is back to the plane and the flight to Broome. I got some good shots of Cable Beach as we landed.

Then it was goodbye to everyone – a touch sad, but we have some great memories of a very special trip. It was one that we will even forget. We had dinner with Pauline and Phil that evening as they were still in town.