Karratha is a thriving town serving the mining and natural gas industries of the Pilbra. But is also provides the gateway to the Millstream Chichester NP – and Karijini, to which we had been – and the Burrup Peninsular. We also used it to get The Cruiser and our Van serviced.
We stayed at Karratha between 16-20 July 2018 using it as a base to visit the Millstream Chichester NP on the 19th
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting There
Point Samson > Karratha ~ 57kms
Karratha is a city adjoining the port of Dampier. It was established in 1968 to accommodate the processing and exportation workforce of the Hamersley Iron mining company and, in the 1980s, the petroleum and liquefied natural gas operations of the North West Shelf Venture. Land shortages at Dampier meant that that town could not be simply expanded.
The name Karratha originated from a pastoral station from which the land was resumed. The station was named by the first owners of the property between 1866 and 1879 with an First Nations word meaning “good country” or “soft earth”. At the 2016 Census, Karratha had an urban population of around 16,000.
Day 1 – 16 Aug – to Karratha
It is a very short drive through some quite flat country. The town is set in the hills, so it presents well.
We arrived a bit before 10, but we went to the van park and we pulled up outside while Kerry went in to see what the story was. Bit of a sad story as someone had taken us to the wrong place. Never mind, we were at the Balmoral, Karratha, in no time and we went straight in. We had to reverse in to the site and it was not so bad, this time. It is a good park with good facilities – large site, 2 large and clean ablution blocks, a large camp kitchen, playground, 2 dump points and a large pool (although a tad chilly). It’s a bit of a drive out of town but they all seem to be.
After we had set up we went to the Tourist Information Office and got the lowdown on what to do. We found out that the road to Millstream-Chichester is in fact not bitumen all the way – there is a 40km or so which is dirt and in poor condition. As this is probably our last “dirt” NP, we decide that we do not want to take Mobi over 80-100km of dirt. They tell us that we can see much of what the NP offers on a long day trip, which is what we will do. We also got information on the Burrup Peninsular, which we are looking forward to seeing. We also got a list of mechanics and other businesses in town as we need to get the 50,000km service on the Cruiser done, and we also would like to service Mobi – it’s done about 12,000km since the last service.
We did some shopping – most importantly going to Harvey Norman to get a replacement cable for the drone. Then to Woolies for a top up.
in the afternoon I rang around to get someone to service The Cruiser. Mechanic #3 could do it first thing Monday morning (it was then Thursday). That meant staying another night at Karratha – not what we wanted but it can’t be helped. Then I called the single van service people in town. They can do it first thing on Tuesday morning which is the day we leave. It should be done by lunchtime, which is OK as we only have 272km to drive.
Day 2 – 17 Aug – Burrup Peninsular.
Got away about 9 and filled up with fuel. The economy rate was 18.8 L/100km, for a 595km trip. The previous fill was at Auski Roadhouse near Karijini, so this covered the drive to Whim Ck, and then to Point Samson, and then to Karratha. As it was mostly towing, we are happy with that. We quickly stopped when we saw a patch of Sturts Desert Pea – we had not seen these close up before or we had been towing and could not stop. There are delightful red and black flowers, but this year there are nowhere near as prolific as usual given the very dry winter up north.
We then drove to Dampier, which is less that 20km. Nearing the town we saw many, many shallow salt lakes near the road where the sun evaporates the water away leaving the salt behind. Dampier Salt is the largest exporter of solar salt in the world. At three sites, the operating area is 19,500ha. There are 23 crystallisers and each is harvested once a year. It takes about 18 months to evaporate the sea water into salt, and it takes 60M tonne of seawater to produce 1M tonnes of salt.
Just outside the town we stop to honour Red Dog, the famous kelpie/cattle dog cross. He was well known for his travels through Western Australia’s vast Pilbara region. Red Dog had a series of owners and spent lengthy periods traveling on his own. His story was made into a film. Aptly named “Red Dog”
Dampier town is on the water and it is quite a pretty bay. At the seaward side is the port and we can see hills of salt awaiting shipment. But there is not much in the town and we are soon on the way out.
We aimed to take the road right around the peninsular as shown on the brochure. Soon we came to a junction with a sign to the Port and to the North West Shelf Project, which we took. Rounding a corner we came to one of the most ugly developments we have seen – it looks like a junk yard. We went to the Visitors Centre where the history and details of the Project are all explained.
Operated by Woodside, the Project constitutes Australia’s largest gas and oil resources development which currently accounts for 40% of Australia’s oil and gas production. It is one of the World’s largest liquified natural gas producers. It is a massive operation, involving off shore (hundreds of kms away) oil and gas extraction, subsea pipelines and other infrastructure, onshore processing, storage and loading facilities, an LNG shipping line, and support base. Apparently, the flame towers are a safety measure. They burn off excess gas when any maintenance has to be carried out.
The way petroleum and gas are formed is interesting.
The information centre was quite interesting – obviously RIO had put a lot of effort into setting it up. The display boards lead you through the way oil and gas is formed and collects in the substrata, then how the drilling happens to bring it to the pipes…. There were a few models of the oil / gas rigs too. There was also a short film about how it all operates.
Outside the Centre is a statue to lives lost in the industry and to hard work.
Next we went down to Withnell Bay. While the first few hundred meters was a good bitumen road, this suddenly changed into a very rocky and bumpy track. We could not see this going anywhere, so we stopped and turned back. As this stage we are starting to think that there is no road that actually goes around the top of the Peninsular.
We drove in to see what was at the Port, through hills of large rocks – like someone had just piled up a stack of large rocks.
On the port road, we soon came to a security gate and turned around. We then drove across to the Eastern side to Hearsons Bay – but we pass a large industrial complex quite near the Bay. Such a very beautiful bay, but ruined by having that industrial plant on its door step.
I climbed a hill on the eastern side and got a couple of good pictures with and without the Plant. I would have put the drone up but with the industrial backdrop, it was not worth it. But what a truly lovely beach. I wandered around on the beach collecting shells.
We had passed the road to Deep Gorge on the drive into the Bay, so called in there on the way out. This is reputed to be one of the most profile Aboriginal rock art sites in Australia, with over 10,000 engravings and etchings. We walked in and came to a junction. We could see some signs down the left junction, but nothing on the right hand junction. So we went left but after a while realised we had taken the wrong path.
Back at the junction I talked to some people coming out. They had not really been able to find anything, but had not walked right down the gorge as it was hot and there was a dead kangaroo beside ta stagnant water hole. Well that was enough for Kerry – who was only wearing Scholls anyway – so I went up the gorge to see what I could find. Past the dead roo, and up to the top of the gorge. But I found nothing. Those 10,000 items must be well hidden.
There was nothing for it but to head back to Karratha. On the way we turned off to what was labelled on our brochure “The Dampier Salt Lookout”. We got there after a few hundred meters, but it was only a platform overlooking the salt lakes. The information boards were all cracked and graffitied, so difficult to read. But we did learn that the salt is produced from seawater being pumped into Pond Zero and flows through a series of primary ponds. In the eighth pond, the brine has been reduced to 11% of its original volume. It is them pumped into crystallising ponds where further evaporation produces the solid salt. Th last remnant brine is returned to the ocean.The salt is mainly used in chemical industries, with only 20% used for food processing and human consumption.
All in all our trip to see the Burrup Peninsular had been disappointing, with only the delightful Hearsons Bay meeting expectations. But although its pretty appalling, the extent of the gas and oil fields, I guess someone has to do it. I regret we send so much of this overseas and don’t keep it for Australians and keep the prices down.
Day 3 – 18 Aug – Around town
It’s a fine and warm day, and we have a quiet day today. A relaxing morning of reading and working on the next post. In the afternoon we drove out to the north east corner of town to see if we could see the sea. And sure enough, we come to a lookout which looked onto the ocean. Not a beautiful beach, but more a rough sand strip with a few meters of mangrove on the seaward side. But with an expansive sea view beyond.
We passed another lookout further along and then followed the road around until it came to an end – there is actually a sign that says “End of Road”. Here, there is a very modern boat ramp well protected by a sea wall.
There is no beach here – more a rocky outcrop all along the edge of the sea. Loads of rock pools, but not much in the way of shells. But we pottered around there for a good while. Then we went back to Woolies fo get all the things we forgot yesterday.
Day 4 – 19 Aug – Millstream-Chichester NP
We are expecting a long day so we got away at around 7. Again it is a fine and warm day, venturing on hot before too long. Our first stop is to get some milk as we forgot to get that yesterday when we were shopping for all the things we had forgotten the day before. Heaven’s knows what we will be like as we get elderly.
It becomes a really interesting drive after about 30km into the 100km drive to the Visitors Information Station. Firstly, the landscape just grew and grew, from a flat start. We saw some magnificent mountains in the distance, then ridges and ranges much, much closer, and we drove through some amazing landscape – love this country.
Secondly, there were so many wildflowers along the way – so much colour, so much contrast to the red of the earth and the pale gold of the spinifex.
And thirdly, there were so many trains. The road is parallel to the rail line to Tom Price and Pannawonica – in fact there is a service road also parallel to this – you need a Rio Tinto permit to travel on that road. We saw several trains and all we can say is that they are just soooooooo amazingly long.
Millstream Chichester NP is described as an oasis in the desert. Permanent pools are fed by springs that are fed water from the aquifer. The Millstream area has been a sacred land since well before the arrival of Europeans to the area, and the Yinjibarndi people still gather here as the traditional custodians of their country. Deep Reach – a deep pool on the Fortescue River – is one of the most sacred places in Yindjibarndi country, and is home to the Warlu serpent, revered and respected by Yinjibarndi and neighbouring First Nation clans.
Explorer Francis Gregory named Millstream and pastoralists occupied this country from 1865 until 1967 when the area became a national park, to protect the Millstream aquifer within the Fortescue River catchment. In 1986 Rangers were first stationed here with the conversion of the remaining cattle property and tavern within the Homestead to National Park.
The Park is highly diverse within the Pilbara region due to the presence of permanent water and associated wetlands. Over 120 species of bird, 30 species of mammal, 150 species of reptile and 500 species of plants can be found in the park.
The NP is divided into the Millstream section in the south west and the Chichester section in the north east. We went past the turnoff to the Chichester section and on to the Millstream section first. The final 50km or so to the Rangers Station is a dirt road. The first 50m of that is a very fractured surface, but after that it is not so bad. So good to be back amongst the corrugations and shaking car. Ha Ha! We went to the Station, principally to get advice on that to do on a 1 day visit. However, we found that the Station is not staffed, so we had to rely on the information boards. We decided to do the wetland walk first, then go to the to Cliff Top, then to Deep Reach Pool and finally do the Snappy Gum Drive.
The Station, built in 1919 to replace the original home of the 1800s, was the homestead for the sheep station. In its heyday, the Station covered more that 400,000Ha and ran 55,000 sheep. The homestead housed its last family in 1964, and between 1975 and 1986 operated as a tavern. The floor plan was for a central lounge/dining front to back, 4 bedrooms off that, and a kitchen in a seperate building at the rear. Lovely old house – with beautifully wide verandahs.
The information guide told us that an easy half-hour walk leads through the wetlands area, and that swimming is not permitted. The wetland walk is through a number of channels carrying the thermal waters. There are many palm trees and lots of little bridges got us through the short walk to the Jimawurrunha Pool. This beautiful lily- and palm-fringed pool is deeply significant to the traditional Yindjibarndi people. Unfortunately we only got as far as the pool before we found the walk closed and we had to go back. Very disappointing. The water was wonderfully warm when I dipped my hand in – a shame we cannot swim here. The rest of the walk was closed due to “bank collapses”. The palm trees are beautiful – both Livingstona and Date Palms.
It is a short drive to the Cliff Top Walk – we could have walked the Warrungunha Trail (8km return) bit it was too far and too hot and would take too long. The 300m cliff-top walk provides great views of the Fortescue River and floodplain – looking directly down on Deep Reach Pool and Crossing Pool. It was blowing a gale – fortunately into our front as we looked down – rather that from our backs. It really was strong. Beautiful area.
Deep Reach pool on the Fortescue River is one of the most sacred places in Yindjibarndi country, and is home to the Warlu serpent, revered and respected by Yinjibarndi and neighbouring Aboriginal clans. The Pool is a large and deep, permanent body of water maintained by the aquifer beneath the park. It is only a 300m return walk to the swimming steps and the canoe launch and viewing deck – great facilities. There are heaps of gas bbqs and shaded picnic tables provided at the waterfront. The pool is lovely but very, very cold – we did not swim. But we did boil a billy for morning tea.
After that we drove up past the Rangers Station to drive the 20km Snappy Gum route. The guide told us that this scenic loop road has a number of lookouts that provide sweeping vistas across undulating hills dotted with Snappy Gums and Spinifex, as well as the Fortescue River Valley. Several important indigenous areas can also be seen from the road. Initially we drove through the area of the town water supply bore-fields that provide water to the Karratha and other mining town areas. There is a small water treatment plant at one point and 2 large water supply pipes are adjacent to the road.
We crossed the Fortesque River over a pretty concrete wet crossing. Just after that we turned right onto the Snappy Gum Drive. Very soon we got to a lookout and stopped and took photos. But then we found the road blocked, with road closed signs. Again very disappointing. Why could they not have put a notice back at the Station that the drive was not open. Feeling quite frustrated, we turned around and made our way out.
It’s about a 60km drive to the north eastern Chichester area – all dirt, but not so bad when we were there. And the landscapes are well worth the visit. The first place we got to was the Mount Herbert carpark. From there you can walk to the summit and/or get down to MaKenzie Springs, which are not suitable for drinking or swimming. I did the walk to the summit, while Kerry watched.
Although the signs said it was 300m to the summit, that could not be the case – it was far longer. But the walk was not too steep, and the path well formed. Great views on the way up.
At the top the views behind the mountain, that we had not seen yet, were sensational. Hard to describe, with mountains, hills and gorges in all directions, so look at these photos.
Back at the parking area, we drove on. This was wonderful scenery made even better by the profusion of colours from the wildflowers. Such an amazing place.
The picturesque Python Pool is easily accessible by road and holds fresh water year round. It provides a perennial waterhole at the base of towering rocks and overhanging gum trees. The 200m track to the pool is along a dry river bed and we saw some lovely Stuart Desert Peas – what a beautiful flower.
The pool itself is a majestic place with its towering cliffs and the great v-shaped gap where the waterfall plunges over in the wet season – oh to see that! There were a couple of kids in the pool when we arrived and I asked them was it cold. “Freezing,’ one replied through chattering teeth. We did not venture in. Instead we went and made up our lunch and brought it back to the pool. It is such a delightful place to sit and relax and to listen to the drawn breaths of the few brave souls who ventured into the water.
The drive out again was amazing – we are just were so impressed by this country.
We got back to Karratha at about 3. The Cruiser was covered in red dust again, and as it is being serviced the next day I thought I had better wash it. The van park allows washing from a bucket.
Day 5 – 20 Aug – Car service
I got The Cruiser over to the mechanic, which was abut 10km away in the industrial section, a bit after 7, so that they could drop me back again. Back at the van park, I washed down Mobi, while Kerry scrubbed the floor.
The mechanic called at around 11 to say it was all done. We got a taxi out to collect The Cruiser. The mechanic, at NW Mechanical, told us that all was fine, but he had adjusted the hand brake in the hubs rather than just the lever. The service cost a bit over $600 – compared to nearly $1,000 at Mt Isa. We thought he was excellent.
Back in town we went shopping (again) as we will be in remote areas for the next week or so. Woolies, BWS, where they have 25% off all wine, and fuel. We also went around to see the workshop that we need to take Mobi to tomorrow for a second service. It will be a tight fit to get her in, as the parking area is quite small. Something to worry about through a restless night.
Later we started packing up as we will have an early start to the day – we really need Mobi to be well and truly done by lunchtime at the latest.
Photos for this post are at – click here
A video for this post is at – click here