They tell us that Karijini National Park is one of the places you have to get to in WA. And they are right – it is a magnificent place. Dales Gorge on the East side is quite self contained – you get into the Gorge and can see all of the features in one go – and the rim walk is also great. The Weano area on the West side is more diverse – you have to travel, albeit not far, to see the features. And they are so rewarding, but you have to be prepared to get well and truly wet, in fact immersed, to see all on offer. We weren’t, as there was a freezing wind blowing and the water was icy, but despite that we absolutely loved Karijini. What a place.

We visited the Karijini NP between 9-11 August 2018

Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia

History

Karijini National Park is on the traditional lands of the Banyjima, Kurrama and Innawonga people of the Pilbara region and Karijini is the Banyjima name for the Hamersley Range. The National Park was first created in 1969 incorporating lands around the Dales Gorge area. Subsequent additions to the park included Hamersley Gorge, when the park was renamed to Hamersley National Park. In 1991, the park was renamed to Karijini National Park in recognition of First Nations history and the continuing association of traditional owners, in particular through the Karijini Park Council.  

Today the park measures 627 444 hectares, making it the second largest National Park in Western Australia after Karlimilya National Park, also in the Pilbara.

Getting There

South Hedland > Dales Camp ~ 325km

Day 1 – 09 August – to Dales Camp

We got away at 7.30, as we had heard Dales Camp gets quite crowded and you can’t book. We wanted to get to Dales Camp so as to get a proper site rather that being shunted to the over-flow area for a night.

The Great Northern Hwy is our road and it is a good one – wide and flat. Initially the landscape is just flat spinifex and scattered trees but that starts to change a bit after the Coastal Hwy junction. But the most significant thing is the constant stream of road trains on the way to Port Hedland. For the first 100km or more, a road train passes us every few minutes. This is a good aid to concentration.

After about 50kms we see a ridge emerging to the south west. Close to that we saw 4 to 5 mine sites, including one open cut mine in the hills. From there on the landscape got more and more interesting, with ridges increasing in number and scale, as well as areas with a deposits of massive round sandstone boulders. It becomes a really interesting drive. Some of the hills were fascinating – I will let the photos describe them.

We also see some wildflowers.

Before we get to the Auski Tourist Village we climbed up to a plateau and the land levelled out again. At the Auski we stopped for an early lunch. The choice was not great and looked tired and fatty. I got a roast beef and gravy sandwich which was OK.  I asked for a sausage roll.  It was the worst sausage roll I have ever seen – just an old sausage in a pastry surround …. hard and stale. Yuk!

From Auski, it is only about 100km to Dales and it remains a good road. Turning into the NP it is still a good bitumen road although narrower. Soon into the park, we stopped at the registration station where we filled in our envelope. We bought a NP Year Pass so we do not need to pay the $12 entry fee. If you are camping here you only need to pay the fee for the day you arrive. 

After that we drove directly to Dales camp, where there was a sign directing us to an office where we would be allocated a camp site. Which we were, and importantly in a no-generator area on the Euro Loop. All for $42 for 3 nights. So off we went to get Mobi in and set up. It should be a bit quicker as there is no water, power nor grey water to hook up. We have to be self sufficient on our solar, gas and 12V battery power (which the solar keeps topping up). We also have a solar blanket to charge the battery in The Cruiser, as well as an inverter which will charge our computers etc. 

Unfortunately we made an absolute mess (I was going to write cock up) of getting Mobi on the site. When it was not difficult and should have been so easy. But finally it was done and we were very relieved to see that the people in the neighbouring sites were not at home watching us. 

It is area of bush camp with lots of room between sites – a real and rare sense of privacy. There are toilets (drop pit) scattered through the camp. But amazingly, we get an Optus signal – 3 bars – but no Telstra.   Pit toilets are my pet hate but these were fine thankfully.

After a quick siesta (me) we walked the Dales Gorge rim walk and it was great. Although we soon realised that we had not been doing any serious walking for a while. The walk to the top of the Circular Pool was about 500m and it gave us a good opportunity to look at a termite nest and the great array of flowers around the place. Not sure if these are the seasonal wild flowers or are more of an annual plant. But they are very pretty.   We took so many photos of the different flowers – yellow buttons, purple/mauve pussy cat tails, brilliant blue similar to campanula, another purple flower with a yellow centre, tiny white flowers with hundreds of minute flowers to a head – just so many different ones.

One thing we did not expect to see in a NP is an asbestos warning sign. But blue asbestos (crocidolite) was discovered in this area (Hamersley Range) as far back as the early 1900s. The asbestos occurs in thin veins within the predominantly iron formations. There were various attempts to mine asbestos but the thin veins and the flat deposits made this difficult. A few small ventures were started, with the last closing in 1966.

The walk provides great views of the Gorge, especially at Three Ways Lookout where three arms come together. It was great to see from above, where we will be walking tomorrow. 

That evening it got very cold and windy. We bunkered down and read for a while after dinner. But we were in bed before 9pm – again!

Day 2 – 10 August – Dales Gorge

It turned into a bit of a wild night again, with a very blustery wind. Just as I was thinking about getting up to lower the awning, Kerry got up, as is her want in the middle of the night. She soon lowered the awning. I was also awake reading for an hour or so from 3:45am (the penalty of going to bed early), 

The morning broke cloudy, cold (min overnight temp of 8) and windy (winds at 35kpm), the first time we have had truly wintery weather. Not a pleasant morning at all. Our plans for today were pretty simple – to go through Dales Gorge, including Fortescue Falls, Fern Pool and Circular Pool. The brochure put these forward as a number of separate things to do but it seems much more sensible to go down into the Gorge, see all of these places and then come out again.  The ranger had told us that the Fern Pool was the warmest for swimming – not that it will be warm, he added – but that the Circular Pool would be extremely cold. And he gave a little shudder as he said that. After that we will drive to the Informations office to find out about the western part of Karijini, near the Eco-Retreat.

The cold blustery wind kept us in Mobi for much of the morning, reading mostly. At about 10.30 we ventured out, Kerry with a few layers of warm clothing on. It was about a 1km walk to the Fortescue Falls entry to the Gorge, and there is a very good step-way down. From the top we can see the Falls and they are looking good. The view improves as we descend, providing not only views of the Falls but also right down Dales Gorge, which is very pretty indeed with its step-like walls. 

On the way down we also started to see the amazing rock formations that make up this gorge. Over thousands of years, soft, easily eroded shales and dolomites, occurring beneath the stronger iron formations, enabled the creeks to cut back rapidly into the ranges. Spectacular gorges and waterfalls are the result. Thank you again Mother Nature, you are wonderful.  The iron formations – thin bands of iron oxide and fine grained quarts – dolomite and shale are stacked on top of each other like layers in a cake.

Firstly, we took the path to Fern Pool, looking at amazing tree roots climbing the rock face as we went.  Fern Pool is simply gorgeous – large and beckoning, with a lovely little waterfall feeding it. But it is far too cold to get in and swim, even if it is the warmest of all the pools in the entire Park. Burrrr!

The Falls are the tumbling-down-a-rock-face type, rather that a direct fall. But really lovely, with a very large rock pool at the base.

Back at the beautiful Fortescue Falls, there were a lot of people there. We took heaps of photos, as one does, and were very patient with those self focused folk who get into the centre of the most desirable view, and then stand and look. And stand and look some more, as I toggle the camera button to keep it live. Sometimes they have a companion that takes a photo of them with the waterfall in the background, but that in itself does not guarantee that, once the camera is clicked, they will move. I admire Kerry’s self control in not yelling profanities at them with suggestions to move their something arses. She is not known for her patience.

We made our way down to the rock pool, not a problem as the layered rocks tend to form natural steps. There is a tight little passage to get around the pool at one point, but no problems. Then we crossed over the outlet from the pool on stepping stones. 

This is a really beautiful gorge, quite different from others that we have walked. There are many large pools nestled in the gorge, with lilies and other plants providing colour, and little mini waterfalls providing the flow of water. We often had to walk around the edges, frequently on stepping stones – which are thankfully flat, as the whole geology is about layers. Just a wonderful place.

The geology is amazing and at one point we see a long seam of dolomite in the rock face.

 

At one point, there seems to be a number of rock pool coming together, providing wonderful photos in all directions. 

Eventually we come to Three Ways, the lookout we had seen yesterday, where three gorges come together. Here is a mass of rocks of all shapes and sizes, and on one we see some blue asbestos.  

From there, the rock pools diminish, and we were walking on massive rock platforms, rather than creek beds. The platforms are so flat and smooth that we likened them to a paved street in an old Roman town.  They really looked like the streets in Pompeii, laid beautifully by an expert stonemason.

It is a slow climb up to the Circular Pool, as the rock platforms narrow and the number of people seem to increase. We often wait to let people through, or wait as the people ahead are just slow. And Kerry in not good with “slow”. But the Pool is magnificent, a statement in itself with cliffs towering above forming a near perfect circle. We walked around the rock ledges on the left hand side and got very close to the rock face where water perpetually drips onto the ferns and other plants clinging on. There is also a little delicate waterfall. All so very delightful.

From the Pool we back-tracked to a decision point. We could walk back the entire walk of the gorge and go up the steps at Fortescue Falls, or we could take the more direct route at Three Ways and climb the cliff. Given the number of people that are now about, we opted for the sheer climb up. It was steep, very, and a tad longer than expected, and we have not had much exercise lately, but we did it without too much trouble.  But first, we had to “excuse ourselves” to get past 4 incredibly slow people who did not want to let us get past them.  Eventually, the stubborn woman at the front let us pass and off we took uphill.  We were back for lunch at 1:30.

Later, Kerry noticed that the gazebo on the next site looked to be struggling in the wind. I had a look and they had not pegged down one corner which was nearly half a meter off the ground and looked about to go. Silly buggers. I got some pegs and secured it. Good old me!

I later drove the 11km to the Information Office, realising as I just about got there that this was silly, as I would have to drive this way again tomorrow anyway. Oh well. I had by now realised that the NP is divided into 2 – the Eastern side (Dales Gorge) and the Western side (the Weano area).  To get from one to the other you can take a 28km drive on a very rough ad corrugated dirt road (as we were informed); or take a 60km drive on the bitumen. 

However, the Office was not all that helpful on what to do when we got there. They did not have any copies of the Weano Recreation Area map that I needed – they were out of print in the middle of the peak season!!!  There were many other people wanting a copy. We were told we could take a pic of the only copy they had, but I did not have my iPhone with me. 

Back at Dales Camp, I remembered that the rangers office had a  copy of the map. I got my phone and went up there. As I approached, I saw a crowd gathered around the back and remembered that at 3.30 the ranger gave a talk on what is over the other side of the Park. This was perfect for me as he explained all of the gorges, their beauty and their difficulties (like wading through water). A really good presentation. And lo and behold he had some copies of the Weano map I had driven to the Information Office to get. He did ask that we hand then back when we had finished (which we did) as a beuqacratic stuff-up had caused them run out. 

Back at Mobi, I found Kerry in the land of zzzzz, but had to wake her up to sort out what we would do tomorrow, and more importantly how much fuel we would need. Stupidly, we did not refuel at Auski, so were now getting down to 1/4 tank. In the end we decided to go and do all we could at the West side, then drive into Tom Price to refuel and have a look around. 

Later, as I cooked our BBQ dinner, I suffered with what was now an icy cold wind, that awful bitter wind that goes through you rather that around you (which also kept putting out the gas flame on the BBQ). We ate dinner inside Mobi with beanies on. This was not part of the deal of heading north to escape the cold winter of the south. Bring back the warmth, we say. And soon.  It’s almost tempting to totally change our plans and head further north to warmer climes.

To see photos of the Dale side of the NP, click here

Day 3 – 11 August – Karijini West side 

It was a very cold and windy morning, so cold that I, snuggled in bed, cannot hold my iPad to read my book. It has been nice and cosy in bed as we have thrown a sleeping bag over the quilt. But that also makes it hard to get up. We have no heater other than the aircon. So when we have no power, as in this NP, we have no heating.  BOM website says we had better get used to this for a while. We have a big day ahead of us and get going at 8.30. 

We took the dirt road from the Visitors Centre across to the Weano area. Even the ranger said it is in a bad state, and one fellow we talked to reckoned it was the worst road he had driven over. But it is only 29kms – the bitumen alternative is 76kms – and we had already driven on some pretty bad dirt roads on this trip.  We are also in a Cruiser. So off we charged!  And the road is actually not too bad at all. Yes there are corrugations, but we have been over far worse. 

The landscape is best described by colours: the red of the roads and cliffs,  the golden green of the spinifex , the incredible white of the gum trees and the blue of the sky. It is a lovely landscape to drive through.

We turned right after 19kms and went up to the  Kalamina Gorge, only 6km up another dirt road. This one was far worse than the main road with corrugations, exposed rock and a warning sign out for one sections that was quite rough. 

Kalamina Gorge is very pretty – not as deep and dramatic as others but very peaceful and easy to get to.  At the top of the pathway in is a lovely specimen of the white gums that are found throughout the area. The Gorge is characterised by that amazing layered rock system we saw at Dales. 

There is a cascading waterfall at one end, and a lovely large rock pool, with crystal clear water. If it were not so cold I would be having a swim for sure. We walked around the pool, using the rock layers as natural steps, to get right up to the waterfall. The water is so clear – we really liked this very cute gorge.

Next up was Joffre Gorge, only 10 or so km along the main road west, and a kilometre or so up a side road to the right. As we look at the Gorge, to our left is the waterfall, nestled on a circular sheer cliff face with a rock pool at its base. The waterfall is not strong, more of a solid trickling of water. Below the rock pool the creek continues through the gorge, forming long and deep pools. The water is clear and even from our height we can see through it to the rock shelves below. We understand that you can walk into the Gorge from the Karijini Eco Retreat, which we can see on the other side of the Gorge.

From there we continued down the access road, which is also far worse than the main road with corrugations, exposed rock and a warning sign out for one section that was quite rough, to get to Knox Gorge. This is very similar to Joffre, with rich red sheer gorge faces, a river with lots of what took like deep pools, and lovely clear water. However, the sun is not in a good position to see it all and much remains in darkness. 

We drove back out of the very poor side road, and got onto the road to what is known as the Weano Area – another pretty poor excuse for a road.  Here there is the Oxer Lookout, Weano Gorge and Hancock Gorge for us to enjoy. Firstly we go to the lookout. This is pretty amazing as it is the point where 4 gorges meet at Junction Pool, 100m below us. It would be great if there were an information board actually telling us which Gorges these are, but we are left guessing. Talking to other people, we can’t get agreement on which gorge is which. But they are all spectacular.

We then want back up to the day area and had lunch, before venturing into Weano Groge. It is a steep climb down but not really difficult, with steps made from the stones. There are 2 sections to this Gorge – the lower section that leads to Handrail Pool, and the upper section through the top end of the Gorge. Firstly we went into the lower section with some hesitation as we know that this will involve wading through water. As well the Handrail Pool section is rated Class 5 – you use a handrail to ease yourself down into the pool. It can be slippery and accidents have happened. But the initial section of the Gorge is lovely, with pools, little walkways and glorious trees, all squeezed in between the layered rock of the gorge walls. 

But then we came to the deeper pools that require serious wading. 

We decided not to do that – it is already cold, the water is freezing, and we know it gets deeper further in.

We retreat to the dry safety of the upper Gorge, where we immediately find a delightful rock pool. We sat on the edge for some time taking in the atmosphere. We were sitting on a rock platform above the pool with a rock overhang above us. The shimmering reflections of the water on the underside of the overhang were mesmerising. 

We walked a few hundred metres up the Gorge, but we knew this went up a long way before the Gorge petters out. So we did not keep going, but returned to our tranquil pool for more reflections. Then we had the climb out – not so bad. 

The last Gorge was Hancock’s, both the most rewarding and the most difficult. Kerry has decided that as this presents even deeper water to get through, there is no way, on a freezing cold day in the middle of winter, that she will plunge into icy cold water at the bottom of a gorge. So there! I don’t intend getting immersed either but I will at least go down and have a look. The ranger, in his talk yesterday afternoon, described this walk – not long but very wet. You have to wade  through some initial pools, then go through the sheep dip (ie you get immersed), then you get into a lovely amphitheatre. Then you do Spider Walk which is a walk through a very narrow gorge with water running at your feet. Then there is the piece de resistance, Kermits Pool, a really good swimming pool. The you can go a little bit further and you can see down to what is called “the centre of the earth”. That section is for professionals only. Which cuts us out.  

The track down is much steeper and with more loose rock than Weano, and longer. Then you come to 2 ladders to get to the Gorge proper. This is similar to the other gorges – the layered rich red rock walls, the pools with natural stepping stones to get through, grasses and trees. This Gorge feels more confined – deeper and narrower – but probably no more so than Lower Weano. 

I ventured down the gorge using the layers of the rocks as stepping stones. Then I walked along stone platforms on teh edge of the water. I got maybe 200m in before I got to the first deep pool – it was stunning in full sunlight. There wasn’t anyone coming through to show how deep it was, but I could tell it was deep. And cold. I admired and retreated.

 

Back up top (a testing climb) I was talking to a woman form Brisbane whom we have seen a few times through the day. She had done about the same as I had. We also talked to some of the other people coming out – whom I might say were all young and mostly from overseas where I guess 19C would be a pleasant water temperature. They all loved the experience but had not quite realised how wet they would get. A couple of girls, just in their swimmers, which says something in itself in that freezing cold wind, had swam the sheep-dip. That is what I call immersion. 

To see photos of the Weano side of the NP, click here

We had decided that we should go into Tom Price for fuel. We should have filled up at Auski, but didn’t. From this side of the NP, Tom Price (TP) is closer (about 85kms), it was cheaper that Auski (by about 20c a litre) and we had not been to TP before. It is a lovely drive to TP, great ranges and mountains including Mt Bruce at 1,235m, the highest mountain in WA. The return drive to Karijini East is also great with some majestic  hills and ranges to view.

TP is just another mining town. It looks to have good facilities  – civic centre, sports grounds, a Coles – there was a Saturday market on while we were there. 

Back at Karijini, we prepared for the drive back up to the coast the next day – we want an early start.

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To see photos of the Dale side of the NP, click here

To see photos of the Weano side of the NP, click here

To see video of Karijini, click here

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