Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing are not towns that generally invoke strong passions for travellers. Principally, they link the 1,000km plus drive between Kununurra and Derby/Broom, being at about third points on that long drive. Most travellers only use them as a one night stopover. However, there are things to see and do that make both of them worth thinking about for a slightly longer stopover.
We visited these towns between 9 -11 July 2018
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting There
Kununurra > Halls Creek (359km) > Fitzroy Crossing (290km) – total ~ 649kms
Day zero – to Halls Creek
We were away at around 7.30am for a straightforward drive to Halls Creek. All but about 100km we had done before on the way to the Bungle Bungles. So the first section is a repeat of the enjoyable drive through the lovely sandstone mountains, hills and ridges.
We even stopped at the same rest area to swap drivers, and nobody had come to clean up all the rubbish since last time.
The section from the Bungle Bungles turnoff to Halls Creek though, is not such interesting country. We occasionally saw some of the ridges in the distance but not up close. So it’s a flatter landscape. But we made good time overall and were in Halls Creek around 12.
The area now known as Halls Creek has been occupied for thousands of years by Aboriginal communities. Late in the 19th Century, Europeans arrived, searching for land for cattle and sheep, as well as minerals. On Christmas Day 1885 prospector Charlie Hall found a huge 870-gram gold nugget at a site that would eventually be named after him.
News of the discovery drew more than 15,000 people to what is now Old Halls Creek to try their luck. It proved an inhospitable land the gold rush lasted less than 3 months, after which Halls Creek became a trading centre for cattle stations, aboriginal communities and miners. The post office with its telegraph line that terminated there, the police station, government office, racecourse and stores gave the town a purpose. In 1918 the Australian Inland Mission built a hospital and the old town struggled on, short of inhabitants and water. In 1948 an airfield was built near the site of the present town and over the next decade the old town moved nearer to this new site. Except for the police station, which finally relocated in 1961, the old town was abandoned by 1954.
Today, Halls Creek functions as a major hub for the local indigenous population and as a support centre for cattle stations in the area. For us, it is not a town that presents itself well. There is a line of shops, including an IAG and a bakery, on the left hand side of the Hwy, and not much on the right. But it looks a bit shabby. The van park is to the left and less than a km down. We pulled up behind another van.
The man behind the counter quickly got our details (and our money, $40/night no less) then took us outside to show us where the powered sites were. He told us to pick any we fancied and there was indeed a great many to choose from. But the sites were arranged in an unusual way, with a concrete slab that contained all the utilities, and a space between these slabs for vans. Each side of the space was numbered suggesting 2 sites, but there was not enough room for 2 vans. We pulled into one and set up in a minimalist fashion as we were leaving the next morning. The facilities are all quite OK.
Later I noticed that all the toilet bowls were water stained and I realised we had forgotten to ask about water – in fact Kerry had read somewhere that the water was a problem. I went up to the office and was reassured that the water was all drinkable. The office also contains quite a big shop – more like a small supermarket. I spied one of the small round butane gas cylinders we needed for our “daypack” and bought that.
In the afternoon we drove out the Duncan Rd, that we had previously planned to drive up after we had left the Bungle Bungles. It quickly became a dirt road and the immediate corrugations brought a quick reminder of the awful road into the BBs.
We were looking for the China Wall and Caroline Pool, two of the local sights. We saw the sign to the China Wall just as we had passed the turnoff, so left that for the way back. After about 15km, we saw a sign to the Pool. 2km down a track we came to a large sandy area with 2 cars parked – their drivers were sitting out having a drink. Des actually wanted to turn back due to the corrugations but I kept saying – only a little longer. Glad we saw the “dry pool” – I think we would have regretted not going for a look.
One of the men had been there about 8 years ago, when he was able to swim 20m or 30m in a lovely refreshing deep waterhole. But today the Pool is a very sad looking 10m shallow remnant of water. But the cliff face above is quite lovely.
Another car had arrived also looking for the Pool – a man and 2 women from Hobart – and we chatted to them for a while. As we strolled we see that there were some very unusual vertical sheets of rock sticking out from the sand. The man and I discussed a bit of geology (ie gold) and we agreed that quartz holds gold, and apparently there was a successful gold mine in this area back in the day.
Hearing our plans to go from Fitzroy Crossing to Tunnel Creek as our entry point to the Gibb River Road, the man said that he had been talking to someone who told him there was a deep water crossing on that road which only the highest level, and best prepared, vehicle could cross. If this is right it would make a mess of our plans. I was very keen to get back to the tourist information office to check this out, with my brain trying to make a plan B. But on the way we made a quick trip in to see the China Wall – it’s only 2km off the road.
And what an amazing thing this is – we have never seen the like. It is a large white ragged looking wall sticking straight up out of the ground – presumably quartz – definitely quartz. There is a short walk to a viewing area and we stare in wonder. Over to the right we can see that there are 2 other much smaller walls.
The rocks in the vicinity were also unusual – quite jagged and clustered into strange formations. We saw a couple that looked like zebra rocks and as we drove out we saw another white wall just off to one side. And I found a beautiful small specimen of zebra rock that I will polish when I remember.
On the way back into town I saw that our Henna maps on my iPad had the telephone number of the Fitzroy Crossing Tourist Information centre. So I gave them a call and was assured that there was indeed a water crossing, it came from a spring so was permanent, it had a rock base but, more importantly, it was only about 400mm deep. We could easily do that. Relief, back to plan A.
In the evening we went to find the local pub, which is just around the corner. We came to a motel and walked through that to the reception, bar and restaurant. Not what we were expecting. So I asked about a pub and we were directed down a couple of corridors to a real pub.
We ordered our meals – both schnitzel (Kerry chicken, me pork), got drinks and had a game of pool. Guess what – I won – not only because Des actually sunk the black on his first shot (and we didn’t realise) but I won anyway.
The meals arrived and were massive. The schnitzels were good but the potato mash was from a carton. Deb Instant Potatoes comes to mind. After that we had another game of pool. There was a small group of youngish Aboriginals playing pool at the next table…. Some were quite good, then a young lady arrived and sank the white… Uproar immediately (in a fun way) – she arguing that sinking a white didn’t mean 2 turns to her opponent. Wasn’t happy with my response, but laughed about it anyway.
Back at the van site, I was quite surprised by an elderly man with a cattle dog wandering around checking on security. He advised me to “leave those outside lights on all night” – this will discourage theft. Despite leaving the lights off, we had a quiet night….
Day 1 – to Fitzroy Crossing
We packed up quickly as we had not gotten much out, and got away a tad after 8. The country had flattened out a fair bit, though we could see some large mountain ranges in the distance on both sides. But mostly we are looking at stunted trees and spinifex – and of course all the caravans heading towards us.
We came through an area where there were huge outcrops of large rocks – not high, but as if a giant had put his marbles on the ground. We also crossed over many large rivers but virtually all were bone dry.
We saw a sign for a photo opportunity and pulled over. It is a gap in a long range that is running parallel to the road (or vice versa) on the left. It is not a high ridge as we were hardly aware of it, but very pretty just the same. But hard to photograph.
At a rest area we pulled off for a tea/coffee. It is not named on my map, but would be near the Galeru Gorge turnoff. We drove up to what is a lookout over the road – the road to the rest area goes up and the Hwy drops down well below. It is quite busy and people are obviously there for a stay over. Two vans are parked and levelled right at the edge of the lookout, making it difficult for others to get the view. I walked close to one to get a photo and a cattle dog came running out barking at me – luckily it was tied up. The view is great out over the plains to the north.
Every now and again, the landscape got more interesting.
The Fitzroy Crossing area has long been used by the local Aboriginal communities. It was first settled by Europeans in 1886, by Dan MacDonald, when he set up the Fossil Downs cattle station, after a three-year, 3,500 mile trek from Goulburn, NSW. Fitzroy Crossing received its first bridge in 1935; which was refurbished into a more substantial structure in 1958. However this bridge could be closed for months during the monsoonal summer. In 1974 a new bridge was built 3 kilometres south of the crossing which moved the focus of the settlement from its original site. The town was only gazetted in 1975, although it had been shown on maps since 1903. Prone to occasional flooding, the town was inundated in 2002 and 2011 following heavy rains.
Approaching Fitzroy Crossing, the land flattens out again. There are also a few more one lane bridges – in fact 2 or 3 very close to the town. We are staying at the Fitzroy River Lodge which is off the highway just before the Fitzroy River one lane bridge. It looks a pretty flash place – more like a resort than a caravan park. The area is massive with a vast expense of grass in the centre.
I am getting sick of long queues for checking in when you have pre-booked (especially since the van would be there for 11 or so days when we go to Gibb River Road). The lady then tried to convince me to put it into storage with them (and if I agreed, she would check if they actually HAD storage)… I declined as we would have had to move the van twice and not have power to Mobi. The daily charge is $45.
We got a good site, but no drive through. However, with Kerry driving and me directing we got Mobi in without too much trouble. It’s a shady site but not on grass so we put the groundsheet out. We also put the legs of the awning out which seems to bring in more light and saves walking into the angled struts continually.
We drove into town, which is well spread out. We need a water filter for under our sink but the hardware shop does not have them. At the IAG we got birthday cards for daughter Jessica (about to turn 37), and grandchild Ella who turns 6 shortly. Got those posted. Knowing how sad our postal service is nowadays, I asked the lady how much for express post to the USA for Jessica’s card. Oh – she look so shocked. $40 for express, or $3 or $4 for normal. I selected normal (just hope it gets there in time.
We are told there is no bottle shop – it is a dry town. You can drink at the bars (2) but you must remain on the premises to do so – you cannot take it away with you. We drove down to see the historic Crossing Inn – but it did not look so good.
Later in the afternoon we got our scooters out and explored the van park which is a very large area – fortunately there are good concrete roads everywhere, We found the pool, which is quite small for the size of the place. It’s also cold! At the bar we got a prosecco and an Iron Jack beer and sat out to watch all the vans arriving. We then scootered back and had a quiet evening. There is Telstra reception but not Optus. There is also FTA TV.
Day 2 – Fitzroy Crossing & Geikie Gorge
Today we are going to Geikie Gorge. This is situated at the junction of the Oscar and the Geikie Ranges, where the Fitzroy River has carved a 30 metre deep gorge into the remains of the ancient limestone barrier reef that existed here in the Devonian period. When the Fitzroy is in full flood during the wet season, it covers the whole national park. Those floods rise over 16 metres up the gorge walls and the continuous rise and fall of the water has left the bottom of the walls bleached white, an unusual sight that makes Geikie Gorge very popular with photographers.
We went out to the Gorge at about 9:30 – it is only 18km out of town and clearly signposted. We were surprised that it was a sealed road all the way, with only a couple of small sections breaking up. The car park is large and new looking, and is actually being extended. Not sure why as there not many cars there and it is peak times. They must be expecting some pretty solid tourism here to justify the amount of improvements (or they just got a government grant that had to be spent quickly).
The office area shows the heights of the various floods and it is quite sobering, showing the amount of water that can go through there. The 1999 and 2002 flooded were 2m above the top of the office, which has a tepee-type roof.
The map we have is not actually very helpful, so we talked to the fellow there selling cruises. At $90 for us both, a cruise did not really appeal. We took the Jarrambayah trail, which is described as a 4.4km return track. A short distance into the walk we saw a sign to a “short walk”, and we headed down there – we had seen that there was a loop walk that came back to the main trail along a bit. The 800m walk took us through some massive limestone features.
The trail is right next to the left hand side of the gorge and presents some massive cliffs. The colour variations of the limestone are interesting. Initially, the walking is over soft sand, so not so easy.
Further along we see that the right hand side of the gorge, and the river, is about 100m to our right over a massive sand deposit. It is bit frustrating as we want to be over there next to the river looking at that beautiful gorge. But we can see the cliffs with their white base, black upper levels and also some red sections where other minerals have seeped through.
The trail ends at the river which bends around to meet us. There we take some photos including one of a dramatic outcrop hanging over the river. From there we walked back along the river – it’s a much better view on this side but it is also walking on soft sand.
At one point the cliff is a beautiful blend of the white, black and deep red – stunning. There are also a couple of small islands in the river.
At the rangers office, a number of visitors asked us what we had done as the map is not at all helpful.
On the way back to town we diverted down a dirt track to see the old river crossing. The bridge is still there but the crossing is closed – the approach on the western side is pretty rough.
Back in town we did a final shop at IAG, then filled up with fuel – at the Caltex fuel stop (not a service station). The next day we were leaving Mobi here, and going up to the Gibb River Road camping for about 6 or so nights. We spent the afternoon preparing.
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To see the all the photos for this blog, click here