Eungella National Park provided a very peaceful interlude to our hectic schedule
Kerry’s snippets are in fuchsia
Getting there
Carnarvon Gorge > Rolleston > Moura > Banana > Mount Morgan > Rockhampton (overnight) > Sarina > Finch Hatton (804km)
The first part was the return journey to Rockhampton to pick up Mobi – 450km. This also involved further shopping, and we’re not only talking about Dan Murphys. At Carnarvon we had seen Lillian and John attach a shade/privacy screen to their awning – it had a sail rope fitting on the top which slid along a channel in the awning. We checked our awning and saw that we have the same fitting, so found the local caravan shop and I went down to buy a screen.
While I was there, staring me in the face on the counter, was a Trail-a-Mate. This is an hydraulic jockey wheel that raise the vehicle coupling by simply lifting a handle up and down, rather than winding up a standard jockey wheel which can be hard work. We previously had one of these, but when we bought the motorised jockey wheel, which does not work, l sold the Trail-a-Mate. I could not resist the temptation and tucked another one under my arm.
Back at Mobi we swapped over all of the gear out of The Cruiser and back into Mobi after taking everything out of Mobi and repacking. The worst part was getting everything back up into the roof cage. Amazing how much stuff fits into our storage bag on top of the Cruiser, but we also are very aware of not exceeding about 75kgs including the bars and cage.
Next morning we were on the road before 8 o’clock heading north from Rocky. We were aiming for somewhere near Eungella NP, but we had read that getting a large van up to the escarpment was problematic. Eungella is about an hour’s drive west of Mackay. On the way we looked up Wikicamps and found that the Finch Hatton Showground was taking caravans, and was only about 20km from the hinterland town of Eungella. So that is where we headed – straight up the Bruce Highway as far as Sarina, and then North East up to Finch Hatton.
It was quite a nice drive, rolling hillside with distance hills and mountains. As we got closer to Sarina we began to see more and more sugar cane. In fact nearly all of the farming from Sarina to Finch Hatton is sugar cane. The countryside on this leg is really quite pretty. Very very easy on the eye – all the rich greens.
Finch Hatton
Finch Hatton is a rural town 60 km west of Mackay, toward the western end of the Pioneer River/Cattle Creek valley. It was started In 1903 with the railway extension to Upper Cattle Creek, prompting the main sugar mill in Mackay to develop the Valley for cane farming. Today we drive through wall to wall sugar cane.
The locality was initially known as Hatton, named after Harold and Henry Finch-Hatton, local land owners and gold miners, but in 1906 Finch Hatton was adopted for the small township and railway station.
A school was opened in 1909 and the post office directory of 1913 recorded numerous farms, the Criterion and Railway Hotels, a sawmill, three stores and a cordial manufacturer. A somewhat more varied township was described in 1949, with the Cedar cinema, a motor garage, a Catholic church (1915), the Criterion hotel and the Cattle Creek Co-operative sugar mill (1906-1990).
With the closure of the mill the town wound down but found some compensation in bushwalking and tourism in the Eungella NP, which includes the Finch Hatton gorge. The town has a general store, a museum in the former railway station (the line was gradually closed from 1977), Showgrounds, the Criterion Hotel, and a number of relics listed on the Queensland heritage register.
The camp
The Showgrounds was absolutely deserted when we arrived. A sign at the gate told us to pick a site and that “someone would be down to see you soon”. It is a vast green expanse with buildings seemingly randomly scattered about. The ablutions block stood out – orange painted blockwork – the inside was lime green. We quickly established ourselves under a shady tree. It wasn’t long before we were set up using both our new Trail-a-Mate and our privacy screen hanging off the awning. Very soon Norman drove up and told us he would see us later to collect the fees – $25 for a powered site.
The video link below shows the campsite and the orange ablutions.
Day zero (arrival)
We had a look around town which, in truth, did not take long. It is a very small village (~500 people) with a BIG showground which, as Norman tells us, is not used much. The Pioneer Valley Agricultural Show (1962) is held annually. There is a well-stocked general store, an arty sort of shop, and the Criterion Hotel (which we will get back to later) and little else that we noted.
Day 1
We drove up to Eungella (pronounced e-young-galah), which involves a steep climb up the escarpment – a long, steep and very windy road. They do take caravans up there we hear, but I would not like to try that and meet the 2 school buses coming down that we met.
As we crest the top, we are in Eungella, with spectacular views back down the river valley from whence we came. We drove around to the Sky Window car park and walked the short Sky Window Circuit – brilliant views.
At this carpark is the start of the Cedar Grove track – the signs say that the walk is 2.8 kms return from the car park but this is not quite the case. The walk from this end is 1.4kms (although our garmins came in at closer to 2kms) which takes you to the Palm Grove Circuit, which is a further 1km or so to the end, which is very close to Eungella town. Then you have to return to the Sky Window carpark.
The walk is really pretty though, with loads of palms, ferns and or course cedar trees – some massive. The way their bases fan out to form buttresses is an art of nature. Initially we are right on the edge of the escarpment, although we can’t see through the trees, but we then move into the forest proper as we walk. Its lovely and cool and lots to see on the way.
The twisted strangler fig tree arch is amazing – there strangler figs are everywhere but this one allows us to see the core of the tree that has been destroyed.
We decided to walk back to The Cruiser via the road.
From there we went to Broken River. This is a really pretty and well done walkway to see Crediton Creek and also to have the opportunity to see platypus, along the Platypus walk. We walked along the river and backtracked to try to see the ripples and bubbles of platypus, eels and freshwater turtles on the surface.
But while we saw many turtles, the platypus proved elusive except for the merest glimpse I got as I rounded a corner. A pair were resting with their beaks on a partially submerged log. But they were gone quicker than a flash when they detected me.
We then drove the Credition Creek loop, which took us firstly to look out over a really pretty valley, then to then skirt the valley before coming back to Broken River. A nice drive. Then it was home for us.
We arrived home at Mobi and I was amazed to see so many ants everywhere. AND I mean EVERYWHERE – all over Mobi, the awning and so many on the outdoor chairs. A quick internet query and they are Green Tree Ants – very territorial little buggers.
A quick look around and the source appeared to be from an overhanging branch that was just draping a bit over the back corner of Mobi. Oi Zoi Oi as they say in Hanoi. Thank heavens we carry insect spray of the strong variety. Des got out the step-ladder and tried to bend the branch away from the van. No luck there, so he broke it off, getting his hand covered in the little buggers in the process. He is getting stung – so not a happy chappy. Eventually, we spray and broom off every single bloody ant – moving the ladder, me carrying the broom and spray and passing it up every metre or so. Fun, fun, fun.
Later, we went to the Criterion Hotel for dinner. Its a funny old pub with lots of people perched around the bar so that, as a newcomer, you don’t know where to order a drink, and some, but not all, stop their conservation to cast you a glance. A couple of blokes shepherded me into what is the ordering part of the bar as marked by big stainless steel rails. I asked about some bubbly for Kerry, but in a hushed tone, can’t be too careful. “No mate, we don’t do any of that sparkly stuff, not much call for it around here. Got a good Sauv Blanc or a chardoney”. A passable SB was the go, and a drop of the local beer for me – gotta keep on the good side.
Later I went up for a second drink. Another SB and I asked about a shiraz for Des. “No darling, we don’t do any of the fancy wines, not much call around here. Got a standard red though – a Jacobs Creek”. I got Des another beer.
But the food was great. I had a seafood basket (we were within 100km of the coast) which was really good – flavoursome and the squid just so tender. Des had found the Senior’s menu and his grilled barra, mash and veggies for $15 was the bargain of the day. He rated it 8 star in value. And the waitress called him sweetheart 14 times.
We walked home in pitch blackness. Lucky I had thought of a torch. But the stars were incredible. Kerry got her Skyview app going and …. Mars was next to Saturn and Jupiter was just to the left. Feels like I am in “The Age of Aquarius”. We could almost reach out and help them along.
Day 2
Today we are going to Finch Hatton Gorge. It’s not far from the town and is a drive through some very pretty countryside – lovely farmland, rolling hills against a background of high hills and mountains.
We cross the creek at a few “wet” floodways, which all makes for a really interesting drive.
There are signs all over the parking area to lock cars, hide valuables, don’t leave them unattended (how do you do that when you are going on a 2 hour walk?). We have the drone with us – maybe not such a good idea – so we were seriously concerned about security.
We start the walk and it is indeed really good – a lovely cool path steadily upwards but gently, lots of trees and ferns, and the occasional views over a turbulent and cascading river.
At the fork we walked down to the Araluen Cascades track to the lovely pools and rapids set between large granite boulders. The flow is fast so we decided not to swim. But it is a great spot – have a lot at the video linked below.
Kerry decided that she will not go on as there was a question mark over the Callistemon Crossing river crossing to get to the Wheel of Fire pool.
So I walked on through lovely rainforest to reach Callistemon Crossing. Just before I get there , there are some dramatic rapids – like 2 water slides side by side. Gushing water, noise and spray – all quite dramatic.
But at the Crossing I cannot get through. The water is high and there is no logical way to get across – no stepping stones as we had in Carnarvon.
Maybe they are not normally important. There was a young couple there before me and they struggled to cross, She had taken her boots off and tried to wade but the rocks were too slippery. They eventually crossed by walking over a dead tree, but I am not good at heights, even lowish heights, especially with a backpack, camera, and glasses hanging off my neck. I reluctantly retreat.
Finch Hatton Gorge has many dangerous cascades and there are signs everywhere warning us to behave. But at the Crossing the lack of a meaningful way forward almost forces walkers to scramble over slippery rocks and dead trees.
So we headed back towards Finch Hatton. But we stop at Ulysses’ Garden, a magic little spot.
I noticed this on the drive up to the cascades and thought it looked a bit quirky. A charming little cafe in a garden setting with lots of little round tables and chairs under umbrellas. The menu was pretty eclectic and all GF and organically sourced. One balckboard special was Shakshika which Des couldn’t resist even if it was only 11am, a berry and natural chocolate cheesecake (which I couldn’t resist, must be healthy), a mango smoothie and an iced coffee frappe for Des. I have to say that I contributed to eating the wonderful Shakshika and now have a recipe.
Back at Mobi, it was suggested that perhaps I should clean the inside of the windows…. so lucky there are only 7. Some warm water, a chux and a perfectly dry clean tea-towel has them spotless in no time at all – while Des was washing The Cruiser and moving more stuff up to the roof cage. So satisfying to have a clean van…. THEN, there are just the rest of the insect bodies to deal with – they are everywhere. Good job I brought with us a good Dyson battery vac.
That evening we had a blackout – in fact Norman later told us the whole valley was blacked out for a few hours. Kerry quickly went to the general store to get something to BBQ (sausages) to have with salad. So it was a quiet evening and an early night.
Pics for this blog are at: Click here
Video for this blog (3.5 min) is at: Click here