Neither of us had been to this area before so did not know what to expect at Devonport – except we knew this is where the ferry arrives from Melbourne. While we did not spend a lot of time walking the town to check out its heritage, we found plenty to do in its environs. There are many beaches, headlands, cliffs and other natural features that were well worth the exploration. Then there was the Reliquaire at Latrobe – not to be missed. We found Devonport to be a vibrant town with plenty to do in the area.

We visited Devonport on 6 October 2019

Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia

History

A history of Tasmania, from pre-colonisation times to the arrival and growth of British colonisation, to the decimation of the First Nation Tasmanians, can be read here. It’s a terrible story.

Devonport is a town with a long history. During the 1850s the twin settlements of Formby and Torquay were established on opposite banks at the mouth of the Mersey River. Torquay on the eastern shore was the larger community with police, post, magistrate, at least three hotels, shipyards and stores. A river ferry service connected the two communities. Between 1870 and 1880 the shipping industry grew and work was undertaken to deepen the mouth of the river. From then, the first regular steamer services started operating directly between the Mersey and Melbourne.

In 1882 the Marine Board building was built and remains the oldest standing building. In 1889 the Bluff lighthouse was completed and the turn of the century saw the railway arrive – combining a railhead and port facilities in the one place, bringing a building boom to Formby. A wharf was built on the west bank, close to the railway and warehouses.

In 1890 a public vote united Torquay and Formby, and the settlements became Devonport. The Victoria bridge was opened in 1902. Devonport was proclaimed a city in April 1981. The cross river ferry service was discontinued in 2014 after 160 years of continuous service when the vessel the “Torquay” was taken out of service. But it has since resumed operating.

Getting There

For the first week of our time in Tasmania we were based at Shearwater. We had flown from Sydney to Launceston via Melbourne and then drove a hire car the 100km or so distance to Shearwater. Shearwater to Devonport is only about 20km.

Port Sorell area

The weather was overcast but the rain held off. It was a cold start to the day (6C overnight) and that was slow to warm up. We first looked around our local area – Port Sorell and Shearwater – before heading west to Devonport.

The Port Sorell area was named Panatana by First Nations people. The Rubicon River mouth offered a safe anchorage to the English, and Port Sorell was the first town settled on the north-west coast. The town was originally a fishing and sealing port named Burgess. However, the name was officially changed (after Governor Sorell) in 1822.

English settlers arrived from the 1830s, first collecting wattle bark, then farming, mainly growing potatoes. In 1835 Port Sorell was home to 385 people, but when potato prices dropped dramatically in the 1840s the population tumbled – in 1881 the population numbered only 75. Port Sorell remained dormant while Devonport grew. Today Port Sorell is one of many popular holiday spots along the north coast of Tasmania, especially from Launceston. At the 2016 census, Port Sorell had a population of 2,022.

Shearwater is also one of many holiday resorts along the north coast. In recent years the population has swelled and it has become, it is claimed, one of the fastest growing areas in the world (no less). This is said to be mainly due to affordable real estate and large developments in the area, including the shopping centre, the Port Sorell Golf Club, and the Shearwater Country Club resort. The town borders the Rubicon Estuary, which has been identified by BirdLife International as an Important Bird Area for waders, especially the pied oystercatchers. And so many hooded plovers.

We drove around to Port Sorell and discovered a vast expanse of sandy beach. The tide was out making it a long walk to the water. But there were deep channels and many boats swung on a mooring.

At the Pantaana Rivulet, the water level was way out and there were many boats along the banks, well used to having little water. There were others in mid-channel but either propped up by timber frames or just grounded with a major lean to one side. With only a very few twin keeled boats.

From there we drove towards Devonport. It was a nice drive through lush green fields and fertile lands with irrigation systems going – we had not seen landscapes like this for many years. Lovely rolling green hillsides with often a mountainous backdrop. So different from the parched mainland we had been driving through on our travels on the mainland. The weather was overcast but dry.

At East Devonport we went north to see the ocean – lots and lots of stones provided the “beach”. Impressive to look at but not a swimming spot. Further around we could see the entrance to the estuary/river. Looking up the river we could see the Spirit of Tasmania ferry port on the eastern side of the river.

We crossed over the river and drove north on the western side to find the tourist information office. There are large silos next to the river which does not make for a pretty entry to what is otherwise a not bad looking city.

It is not easy to find the tourist office as it is not on a main street, but is in fact tucked away behind a few buildings with very little signage to get you there. We could not help wondering how people with caravans or RVs coped – there was no obvious places for large vehicles to park. But once there the staff were great, as is nearly always the case, and we came away with lots of ideas, maps and brochures.

Next to the Tourist Information was a food market. Lots and lots of lovely goodies but not many people on the buying side of the counter.We had some lovely dumplings. Then we walked around a bit and saw some lovely buildings and homes. Across at the ferry port the Sprit of Tasmania was secured. The Town Hall and Court House remind me so much of our wonderful years in Hanoi where all the “important” buildings were painted artistically in “Communist Yellow”

We drove up Victoria Parade towards Aikenhead Point at the mouth of the Mersey River. But on the way we saw a big and impressive stately home – just stunning. Later we found out it was the historic home ‘Malunnah’. Built in the 1880’s, the name means ‘Nest’. Malunnah has long been the focus of curiosity from passers by such as us, but after 3 years of renovation and restorations the owners now invite you inside to stay. Looks fabulous from the outside – would have love a tour.

Aikenhead Point is a dramatic place especially on a very blustery and cold day – the wind had got stronger and stronger. There are great views in either direction and a viewing and fishing platform overlooking the water. There is a statue up on a concrete column on the seaward side of the platform – the Spirit of the Sea Sculpture, looking a lot like Neptune. I read there has been a lot of controversy about this work of art…. some wonder why it looks like Neptune, when Neptune has nothing to do with Tasmania.

Only a couple of km around to the west is the Mersey Bluff. As we parked the car we saw a pathway heading down towards the sea. This led to a spectacular viewing platform with fantastic views particularly to the east. It was quite crowded when we first got there so we waited until the mob left to take our turn.

I had seen that the path carried on so I followed that for about 50m and found another platform looking over the wide cracks in the cliff. It is always good to watch large waves pounded into these cracks. So very windy though – after a look at the amazing views, I tucked myself around a corner out of the bitter wind…. I started to feel my fingers again which was a positive sign.

There are great views from the upper platform. But the wind almost blew us off our feet – if we put your arms out we felt like we could fly. It is a spectacular place but many people would miss it – there are no signs and several people we talked to thought the lighthouse was the only thing there to look at.

The lighthouse was first manned and lit by kerosene in 1889, converted to gas in 1929 and then electricity in 1952. It has a range of 27kms.

It is not far around the Bluff to get to Coles Beach, where if anything the weather had worsened. It presented a very and bleak and windswept place, with its stony beaches and dark grey rock headlands and outcrops. At one place there was a rock formation of black columns – a mini version of what we had seen in Northern Ireland at the Giants Causeway.

It was a short drive around the southern part of the city on the freeway to the town of Latrobe, but we got diverted at the Anvers chocolate factory/shop. It presents as a lovely old homestead and Kerry is soon in the shop viewing all the delights. Viewing AND tasting the many delights – and coming away with a few. We didn’t attempt the restaurant / cafe though as it was so crowded. Beautiful gardens with weeping cherries, polyanthus and roses.

Latrobe is a unique town. It came into existence because it was the first convenient point where the Mersey River could be forded. Today this historic dockland has been turned into a pleasant place to visit and picnic, with the many deciduous trees giving it a European softness. It is essentially a quiet town surrounded by rich agricultural lands, bush and woodlands, and is home to the Axeman’s Hall of Fame. It is an historic timber town where the first woodchopping championship was held in 1891.

But the range and variety of shops and restaurants in the town today makes it a favourite stopping off point for tourists. It has not got the wonderful charm and intimacy of places like Hahndorf in SA, but it is still a great place to visit.

We saw some great looking houses on the side-street where we parked the car, which certainly whetted our appetite

We also a range of other buildings on the main street.

I was struck by the Odd-fellows hall – such a strange name – so I looked them up. Although no formal records exist, historians have said that an Order of Odd Fellows was established in 1452 by knights who met at the Boulogne-sur-Mere in London and formed a fraternity. Large meetings were treated with some suspicion in those days, and hence only records on matters of great importance were kept. Two Orders developed, the ‘Patriotic Order’ and the ‘Ancient Order’. The existence of the ‘Patriotic’ Order has been confirmed at 1797.

The Oddfellows Society is dedicated entirely to the wellbeing of its members. Their considerable assets are managed to this end and their tax-exempt status ensures that investments grow quickly. For example, in current times the the Macmillan Cancer Support Group helps sufferers of cancer. In 2017, the organisation estimates some 1.6 million people received personal, high impact support, and during that year Macmillan had 4,555 nurses operating in the NHS and in the Community. Practical help they provide includes: housework, shopping, light gardening, accompanying sufferers to use local services, and helping with transport. And to think I thought this was an ancient society long passed into history. You learn something new every day. You do indeed – while organisations such as this are necessary, we wonder why is this not publicly funded?

We had a late lunch in one of the many take away places in town – Kerry going for a scallop pie which seems to be a speciality in this area. We were starving and just popped in for a sausage roll or similar – then I spotted Scallop Pies – so just had to have one. So delicious I bought another to take home for dinner.

After a bit of a walk around we discovered the Reliquaire – a shop which boasts an almost unbelievable range of toys and gifts. The former store burned down in 2015 but its signature stock – an eclectic mix of imported dolls, vintage furniture, games and science toys, puppets, soft toys, books and jewellery – has been brought back. Lots of Harry Potter stuff, dragons, skulls, as well as softer toys and some Christmas decorations.