We were quite taken with Daylesford. Everyone had told us we would love this town and they were right. This continues our admiration of the central Victorian towns and cities – they are really special. They not only capture so much of Australian history, but they also retain some of the best historical buildings. We loved the area in general but especially Hanging Rock. Come home Miranda, we miss you.
We were at Daylesford on 28 February, and 01, 02, & 03 March 2019
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
Getting There
Ballarat > Daylesford ~ 45kms
History
The Dja Dja Wurrung First Nations people are the Traditional Owners and the original inhabitants of the region. Dja Dja Wurrung country incorporates a large portion of land in the Central region of Victoria between the Avoca and Loddon Rivers.
The Dja Dja Wurrung are part of the Kulin alliance of Victorian First Nations peoples. There are 16 clans, which adhere to a patrilineal system. Like other Kulin peoples, there are two moieties: Bunjil the eagle and Waa the crow. More history of these people can be read here.
Pastoralists occupied these lands from 1838. In 1848, Irish immigrant John Egan took up land on the future town site, then known as Wombat Flat. He and and others found alluvial gold in 1851 on ground now covered by Lake Daylesford, initiating the local gold rush. Other finds quickly followed, leading to a town site being surveyed and founded in 1852. Initially called Wombat, it was renamed Daylesford.
In 1859 around 3,400 diggers were operating. The post office opened in 1858 and a telegraph office in August 1859. Daylesford was declared a municipality in 1859 and in 1882 the town hall was built in the centre of the main street.
By the 1860s the alluvial gold was exhausted and a shift to quartz reef mining began. This continued on and off into the 1930s. In later years Daylesford became associated as being a fashionable spa resort, but fell out of favour in the Great Depression. However, In the 1970s a push for a more healthy and alternative lifestyle once again created interest in the region. Since then the number of visitors has increased to the amazing number of people that visit every weekend in the Daylesford and Hepburn areas.
Today, about 75% of Victoria’s recorded mineral springs are in the Daylesford-Kyneton region, and Daylesford is marketed as the spa centre of Australia. The population for Hepburn Springs and Daylesford is normally about 3,600 but that number can double or triple on really busy weekends.
Day 1 – Thu 28 Feb – To and at Daylesford
It was a short drive up the road to Daylesford after caravan repairs in Ballarat. It feels strange doing these short daily drives compared to those we mostly did last year on that big lap. We mostly drove up through farmlands that are looking incredibly dry. We saw some interesting buildings at Creswick. We got to Daylesford in late morning and found ourselves driving up the main street – first impressions were great.
We saw the turnoff to the van park on our right and turned in. But then all we saw was the entrance to Victoria Park, so went on down the side road looking for the van park. We pulled up at a wide intersections when it was clear the van park was not down there. I talked to a local woman and she told us the van park is actually inside Victoria Park. Oh for proper signage. We did a big u-turn, just, and got back around. The van park sign was hidden by a temporary sign for a coming event. This is one thing we have noticed a lot this trip – the lack of visible signage. Makes for some interesting u-turns.
One of the staff led us to our site on a golf buggy, and took us around the back of the site so we could drive through. There is a paved slab and we pulled up next to that. It is a large wide site but with a good slope from back to front. We needed all of our timber blocks under the jockey plate to get the front of Mobi high enough. There are 2 facility blocks – the new block is very good and the old is OK. Both are clean and well maintained. We got both Optus (our 4G modem plus my phone) and Telstra (Kerry’s phone). While the toilet blocks were good, they were both a decent walk from our van site unfortunately. However, the camp kitchen was really really good and right opposite our van – saved using our BBQ.
After setting up we went to the tourist information centre and got lots of maps and brochures as well as lots of notes on where to go. Kerry had got excited when she heard about the Mill Markets – a massive barn like structure full of stalls selling just about everything. Surely we had to start there she argued.
We drove down to the market – a massive place. We did spend a bit of time looking around, but couldn’t even see anything we would faintly use. It made the big “Antique Centre” in Annerley (Brisbane) look first class by comparison with what to us, looked like mainly junk.
We then went back into town and walked around for a bit.
Back at Mobi, Kerry realised that the day we are looking to get to Halls Gap was actually in a long weekend, and that we may not get into the park we had selected. I phoned every caravan park in Halls Gap. Even the one with absolutely horrible comments on Wiki. Nothing available – not even an unpowered site to be had. Des came up with a great idea – free camping available in the national park on a first in basis. Then realised that whoops – it’s a Sunday in the middle of a long weekend. Let’s forget that one. Finally got onto Stawell Gateway CP and they have a spot. Didn’t ask how much. At least it’s only a short drive to the CP at Halls Gap for the following 11 nights (most of which time we will be leaving the van there and driving back to Sydney for a wedding and return).
Day 2 – Fri 01 Mar – Macedon, Hanging Rock
I was shocked to find a pool of water on the floor of Mobi, just next to where the water pump is housed – the one that had been fixed. The cupboard floor was very wet and we quickly turned off the mains tap and got rid of the water. I rang the repair company in Ballarat and they said that they could not come up to Daylesford as they did not have insurance for off-site work. We would have to bring Mobi back to Ballarat – which we could do when we leave Daylesford heading for Bendigo. We set up our 20L jerry can for drinking water and I then got my tools out and tightened every clamp on the pump, and the filter. That seemed to stop any leaks so we turned the tap back on and kept our eyes on it.
Today we are going to Hanging Rock on the recommendation of the man in the tourist office who strongly advised us not to go there on a weekend, when bus loads pile in from Melbourne. It is a nice drive to Trentham, a mix of rolling farmlands and forests. Trentham is a fine little town with good wide tree-lined streets, and lots of heritage. It was quite busy. We went into the famous RedBeard sourdough bakery and tried some of their toast – really good. This bakery is pretty unique as it uses a “Scotch Oven” – Des had toast and jam while I had some spiced fruit loaf. Delicious. We walked out with a loaf of sourdough under an arm.
As we exited the town we saw a large church with a stunning home next door. The latter was accomodation, but a lovely place. Would have loved to have a sticky-beak in this house. Bet it was stunning inside too.
The nice drive continues across to Hanging Rock – really nice country. The former volcano is very important both culturally and spiritually to the Dja Dja Wurrung First Nations people.
We began to pick out Mt Macedon. Then we were in the Hanging Rock Centre – free to get in, but $10 to exit for the car. The display tells us that Hanging Rock has provided many values over 6 million years… from a sacred place for local indigenous people, the backdrop to Joan Lindsay’s book Picnic at Hanging Rock and Peter Weir’s film of the same title, to a colourful host of music concerts, markets and popular horse races.
Hanging Rock, or Mount Diogenes as it’s also known, is a rare volcanic formation. It is one of the best examples of a volcanic plug or mamelon in the world, and has been exposed to considerable weathering and erosion, resulting in a conglomeration of unusual rock formations. Great place we reckon. The visitors centre has a good display on the most famous aspect – the book and the film.
We walked up the path which was quite steep. At a junction we had a choice: turn right for a ramp to the top, or turn right to the steps up. We took the ramp, deciding to walk down the steps. The ramp was steep in parts, so we took it slowly. My son Stewart, Des’ sister Maureen and our friend Schira had all warned me to stay in Des’ sight at all times in case I vanished.
At The Saddle, we began to see the amazing formations, with little pathways around pillars of stone – easy for Miranda to get lost. There are also many rocks with strange faces – it’s easy to let the imagination take over.
More great views as we proceed towards the top.
The top is not well signposted and again we can see how someone could lose direction. In fact we found it difficult to find the path down. Walking down the steps is actually not to be missed as you get to see the actual Hanging Rock which goes over the top of the steps.
Lower down there is a very short sidetrack to Morgans Blood Waterfall, which is bone dry, and the face of Queen Mary – although for the life of me I could not see it. To see a video of our Hanging Rock experience, click here.
We kept driving around to Mount Macedon, which was largely established by Melbourne’s wealthy elite in the post gold rush era, who used it as a summer retreat. The post office opened in 1870, known as Upper Macedon until 1879 and Macedon Upper until 1936. Lots of imaginations from those bureaucrats. Due to its relatively high elevation – approximately 620 metres AHD – the area experiences much cooler temperatures relative to Melbourne. The area also receives relatively higher rainfall. This combination of factors have contributed to the town’s reputation as a resort town and wine region. Snowfall is a fairly regular feature on the higher elevations, although the mountain is marginally too low for snowfalls to lie on the ground for more than a few days.
At Mount Macedon we drove to see the Memorial Cross, which is considered one of the most significant war memorial in Victoria. Located on the summit of Mt Macedon, this imposing structure stands 21 metres high and commemorates all those who served in wars and conflicts. There is a nice garden on the approach. Good views as well. The hydrangeas were in full flower and beautiful. Would be lovely to see this when the rhododendrons are in flower also.
Leaving there, the road took us on a long, long steep descent to Macedon, passing many magnificent looking properties – at least the walls and gates look impressive. This really is a place for the rich. At Macedon we passed yet another old church/school complex.
We drove up to Kyneton, to the Kyneton Bushland Resort as we have the opportunity to get cheap holidays there but have never seen it. The town and the resort look good so I think we will be back. We headed back to Daylesford via Glenlyon through some nice country.
Day 3 – Sat 02 Mar – around Daylesford
In the morning we went to the farmers market. I always like to get to farmers markets for some fresh produce. It was a little disappointing, fresh food wise, but we bought some nice spicy chutney locally made. There were a lot of chooks for sale, but not that many stalls really. We then walked around town, taking lots of photos on the way. Loved the old pub, the cute little houses and churches. We are not religious, but the architecture of the churches is often amazing.
First the civic buildings. The old courthouse looks a bit rundown and is for sale – the first picture is the court house in its heyday. The courthouse held the original jail as well as the police residence up behind it. Would be interesting to restore it.
Next the best of the pubs.
Some of the homes.
At the end of the walk we came across a very old Morris 1000 parked in the north side of Central Spring St. There was an old Holden Gemini parked a bit closer to Vincent St, but that is hardly worth a photo.
Next stop was at Jubilee Lake. There is a caravan park there but it does not look so good. In fact there is an air of dilapidation about the place taking away from the lake, which is really nice.
We walked around the lake to find the springs that were marked on the map. It was a nice walk past some horses, past a lovely old bridge, and through an avenue of trees. But the spring we tried was dry, or the pump we tried was broken. No water. I think the pump may have lost its suction.
From there we drove up to Wombat Hill and drove around the botanical gardens. We parked up at the tower and I climbed it – some good views from up there. We walked around the gardens as Kerry wanted to see the Monkey Puzzle Tree, a strange tree so called because monkeys can’t climb it to get the fruit. It was a very pleasant walk, especially with refreshments in the cafe. The rhubarb tart was yummy. The scone, jam and cream was excellent too.
We ended up at The Convent, a wonderful part art gallery and museum. The Convent was built in the 1860s as a private residence for the Gold Commissioner. It was then known as “Blarney Castle” (the original of which is actually very close to my birthplace in Ireland). The Catholic Church purchased the building in the 1880s for its presbytery, but after ten years the priests complained about its lack of comfort and a new presbytery was built. In 1892 the building was deemed appropriate for nuns and boarders, and the Holy Cross Convent and Boarding School for Girls was opened. Various refurbishments and additions were added over the years. Amazing that it wasn’t comfortable enough for a couple of priests, but the church considered it fine for a Boarding School.
Into the 1970s, the old convent lacked adequate heating and required a tremendous amount of upkeep, so more suitable accommodation was found for the nuns. The building and gardens had declined into dereliction when Tina Banitska, a well-known local artist and ceramicist, bought the property in 1988. Today, the building houses seven galleries, a large retail area, a café, a lounge bar, a penthouse and two function rooms. Kept as a reminder of the rich history of the building are four tiny cells, which were the nuns’ bedrooms. Many boarders have returned to “the Convent”, and with trepidation, approached the old nuns’ quarters, which had always been forbidden ground. We enjoyed the gallery and the history, and the walk around the gardens.
The outside of The Convent.
The insides of The Convent.
Near the end of our visit we came to a section of photographs and one featured the Morris 1000 we had seen before and the Gemini – a lovely winter photo. The cars obviously haven’t been moved for a long time.
Finally, we went down to Daylesford Lake – which is lovely to walk around. We got to the Wombat Springs, which was working. However the taste was very rusty. Magnesium in the water.
Day 4 – Sun 03 Mar – around Daylesford
We had been checking the water pump a few times a day – showering using the pumps, etc, to really test it out. It seems that all is well and we may not have to return to Ballarat.
We started the day up at Cornish Hill. Thomas’ Lookout is a long way up and the views are good. But there is not much else to see up here so we drove down into the old mining area on a narrow dirt track. However, everything significant was either locked up for safety reasons or removed. There is little to see and it was getting hot.
We were heading to Hepburn Springs, so had to return to the van park to get our swimming gear. It is a surprisingly quick drive to Hepburn and we see some nice places on the way.
We went down the wrong side road to get to the baths, but got there eventually. It is very modern and chic and at reception they insist that we go to the lower level to have the packages explained to us.
We had a look around and it does look impressive with hot and cold pools, although they were not massive and were quite busy. It turned out that the cheapest package was $52pp, rising to an astonishing $99pp. We could have had a private plunge at $139 each. We declined all options – a hundred dollar swim after we had been around the country freely swimming in all manner of mineral springs. No thanks.
We found our way to the Wyuna springs quite close to the baths. The taste was quite salty, but beautifully cold. Could be an acquired taste.
From there we drove on out to the lavender farm: the Lavandula Swiss Italian Farm. The 100 acre property was once farmed by Swiss-Italians, who came to Australia in the 1850’s looking for new opportunities. In the late 1980’s, Carol White and her family restored and re-created the old dairy farm, and it has become one of Victoria’s most important rural properties. It was quite a delightful place and the $4 entry was well worth it.
It was on Australian land in the middle of a drought, but the inner property could have been in southern Italy. The old homestead and the incredibly variety of plantings and fruit trees smacked of souther Europe. It was delightful, even if the lavender was well past its best.
At around noon they opened up the old home and the current owner gave us a presentation of the history of the property – really interesting, and they have done a wonderful job in converting it into a viable property. While maintaining the original homestead.
We had lunch at the cafe, and was excellent – which for me was sweetcorn and zucchini soup and potato bread infused with rosemary. Yum, yum. I had a grilled zucchini, tomato and cheese panini which was amazingly good.
On the way back we went up to see what the Blowhole was, being unfamiliar with the concept of blowholes away from the coast. After about 5km drive on dirt roads, we got to the parking area to find a notice saying that the blowhole was closed. Why not put the sign at the start of the road in?
Back at Mobi we found more water leaking from somewhere around the pump but only a few drops. Despite this we decide to push on and not to return to Ballarat tomorrow morning.
To see photos related to this post, click here
To see a video of our Hanging Rock experience, click here