We went to the Wolgan Valley on Friday 10 December 2021, whilst on a 7 day visit to Blackheath.

We woke to a cloudy and cold day but with a promise of better weather. We deserve it. Today we are going to the famous Wolgan Valley, to the town of Newnes. Kerry’s son Stewart had been telling us for ages to get ourselves out there and check out the best campground in NSW.

Newnes is an abandoned oil shale mining site within the Wolgan Valley north of Lithgow. The settlement was originally built by the Commonwealth Oil Corporation. Set within beautiful mountain scenery, a large collection of shanties, huts and buildings for the mining process were built. The site was operational in the early 20th century and is now partly surrounded by Wollemi National Park.  Today the ruins of the site are all that remains.

To read more on the history of the mining enterprise, click here.

Newnes is less than 60km from Blackheath. We drove about 35km to Lithgow then turned north on the Castlereagh Highway towards Mudgee. It’s not far before we turn east on the Wolgan Rd.

We were keeping an eye out for the Blackfellows Hand Fire Trail, as we wanted to see the Maiyingu Marragu (once known as Blackfellows Hand Cave). We took the fire trail – it is well marked – and followed it for about 800 metres, where we saw what looked like an information area to the right. But we could not find any trail leading from that. So we continued on and quickly came to another area that looked more like an entrance on the right. it had a circle of stones  which we guess is a meeting place.  

From there, a track leads up the hill to the cliff line where some beautiful sandstone rocks and caves awaited us.  

The track leads up the hill to the cliff line. We followed the cliff to the left over fallen rocks, with a path leading to the massive cave.

The cave is a massive sandstone overhang and the hand images are quite clear and extensive. They are said to be some of the best in the Blue Mountains. The depictions of First Nations hands and arms on the wall – some by children, others by adults – are excellent. We are so glad we had come to this place. You can imagine people living and sheltering here.  What a magical spot.

 

 

We followed the cave around and came to a waterfall. It’s a really special area.

Continuing onto the Wolgan Valley, on the way down, across the fire trail, we could see some unusual rock outcrops – like what we had seen at the Lost City. We wondered if that was the Gardens of Stone. 

We quickly got to the start of the steep descent to the valley floor. However, we were stopped as there was considerable roadworks going on all they way down. We were told by the flagman that after the 2019 bushfires and the massive loss of trees, the ground is no longer held in place by the tree roots. The endless rain were have been experiencing can easily wash away the dead trees and the rocks and soil. There has been an almost endless process of clean-up and repairs. 

But we were soon driving down the steep and twisty hill, passing many worksites.  The scenery is brilliant as the massive cliffs start to surround us. But it is impossible to get a photo because of the trees. 

On the valley floor it is a stunning drive  – the rock faces are magnificent. We pass quite a few farms nestled under these imposing cliffs.  It is a stunning drive to Newnes – the pictures tell the incredible story.

 

As we approached Newnes we came up behind a caravan that had come down the hill before us. Crazy taking even a small van down that road we thought.

At the village there is just the hotel and museum, and a camping area. We knew that if we wanted to see the Newnes Historic Ruins Walking Track, we needed to cross the river at the ford just past the three ancient railway carriages. It is normally possible to drive across in a 4WD when the water is low, or people can walk across the causeway.  But not that day. The river was in full flight and there was no way we could, in our opinion, take the Pajaro over that causeway. 

Instead we drove on to the very large camping area at the end of the road – the last 9km in are on a rough and potholed dirt road so we took it easy. The camping area is huge and surrounded by some magnificent cliffs. It would be great to wake up to this every morning. There is a scattering of water tanks, tables and fire pits. We were told it gets super busy at peak times.

We were shocked to see a large caravan all set up – must be at least 22ft. Later we talked to the owner about getting in via the steep and windy road – no problem he assured us. Just keep it slow and careful.

To get a bit of exercise we took the track to the Pipeline walking track, aiming for Petries Gully, stated as 2km away. As we set off the river was roaring away on our right. It was a good track through open forests – later we deduced it was an abandoned road with sandstone blocks on the road edge in some parts. 

We came to the ruins of an entrance to a building still in pretty good shape. There were low walls also close. Further on there were more ruins.

 

At a fork in the track, we took the left turn to see if there were more ruins hidden in the trees. We found some pathways and ruined walls as well as 2 abandoned and wrecked cars – old Holdens.

Meanwhile the sandstone rock faces had closed in – there are magnificent.

We went a little further and then returned to the camping site for lunch. Lovely place. 

 

We stopped to check out the big sun-chair and railway carriages.

Then we went to check out the old pub. This was open but deserted so we had a quick look around. I’m not sure its even still a pub – make a general store.

We then turned for home.