POSTED 02/03/2020 DES CLEARY
We love the the Blue Mountains just west of Sydney, and have visited the area many times. Kerry’s son Stewart has been a guide there for many years and not many people know the area as well as he does. We also loved getting to spend time with Olive, Stewart’s daughter, and her mother Lucy. Mostly we had stay in Katoomba but this time we were at Blackheath as the Katoomba van park was fully booked. We were there for 8 nights and got in some great walks.
Getting There
We had recently sold our apartment in Newport and moved out at the beginning of December 2021. Although we had bought a house in Kingscliff, we could not move in there until mid January 2022. Hence, we hitched up our caravan and plotted a 6 week holiday up the inland cities and towns to get us to Kingscliff in mid January. We stayed a few days at North Narrabeen Van park while we packed everything, sent it to storage and cleaned the apartment. A very hectic few weeks.
NorthNarrabeen > Blackheath (127kms)
Kerry’s snippets in fuchsia
History
The area surrounding the Blackheath has been occupied by the Dharug First Nations people for approximately 40,000 years. It is thought to be a meeting place for the Dharug and the Gundungurra people from the south, and the Wiradjuri from the west. These tribes were completely different clans, with a variety of different traditions, beliefs, and behaviours, but with a rich connection to the land.
To read more about the history of the First Nations people, click here
Due to the Blue Mountains’ rough terrain, the European’s invasion of the region was delayed. The thick bushland, uneven ground, and jagged rock formations were too tough to breach for the early settlers. The area soon grew a reputation of being impenetrable.
In 1813, Gregory Blaxland, William Charles Wentworth, and Lieutenant Lawson formed an exploration group. During the exploration, the team faced numerous hardships, almost giving up until they discovered the gentle slope of the Blue Mountains’ west side. They arrived in the area now known as Blackheath on the 27 May 1813. In April 1815, Governor Macquarie first named the region Hounslow, but then just 16 days later on his return journey from Bathurst, he renamed the settlement as “Black-Heath”, in reference to the colour and texture of the native shrubbery in the area.
The first building in Blackheath, the “Scotch Thistle Inn”, was erected by Andrew Gardner in 1831 and Charles Darwin visited the inn in 1836. The extent of the original grant of land to Gardner can be seen today as the area bound by the Great Western Highway, Govetts Leap Road and (the misspelt) Gardiners Crescent.
Blackheath developed into a town after the Main Western railway line was built in 1869; the current station location was completed in 1883. A large dam built to supply water for railway steam engines became the public baths well before steam operations ceased upon electrification. The baths opened for public swimming in 1931 and since then have been redeveloped to include swimming pools, children’s play facilities and surrounding park lands.
Day 1 – Monday 06 December – To Blackheath
It was a straight forward drive to the Blue Mountains from North Narrabeen – mostly on toll roads (ouch, with a caravan on the back – $25.08 for the M2 and $25.52 for the M7 – be prepared, as Sydney is the toll capital of the country).
The Blackheath Glen Van Park was relatively empty and we were quickly reversing into our site (30). We got it slightly wrong – a touch out of practice, shall we say – so reversed the van up the grassy hill at the rear of the site so as to get it onto the concrete slab. The area next to the slab was pretty wet and muddy in places so we put a tarp out under our ground sheet.
It’s a small van park and the amenities are ok – a bit dated. The best sites would be 16 &17. Our phones worked ok and our own internet was fine – no park internet. We could not get any tv reception – not surprising as we were down in a deep valley.
As we were setting everything up another van came in and started to reverse onto their site. Suddenly Kerry called out that the van was about to hit the tap so we both raced over to warn them – just in time. The couple were in a difficult position as they tried to reverse in but with the rubbish skips right opposite their site. Eventually we helped them get the van onto the concrete slab but it took some doing – they were very grateful.
Kerry’s son Stewart and his daughter Olive came over in the afternoon and we planned some walks. Later we walked up into town and had dinner at the Gardeners Inn which was OK. We walked back to the van through the Memorial Park which was a real mistake as the grass was long and wet – my shoes were absolutely saturated.
Day 2 – Tuesday 07 December – Centennial Glen Reserve
It was a cloudy and cool morning – a continuation of a weather pattern that had laid siege to the Sydney area for quite a few weeks. More heavy rain and storms were predicted for the coming week.
I walked around the town for my morning walk. There are many tree-lined streets and some lovely homes and buildings. Foxgloves abound in some lovely gardens.
I had a bacon and egg roll from the Blackheath Deli – super good. However, Stewart told me later that the Altitude is the cafe serving the best take-aways in the Mountains. Good to see the Victory Theatre still going strong, and the New Ivanhoe still on the corner.
Norwood, 1888, needs a bit of TLC. But what a fantastic thing to undertake.
I walked back through the Memorial Park – it is pity that the rhododendrons were not in flower – happens in about October and would be spectacular. The swimming centre is within the park, as is a new playground with a very tall rocket ship to climb.
Clouds at Govetts Leap
Stewart had phoned to tell us that Govetts Leap lookout was looking pretty special. So I walked out to it and Kerry drove after getting a load of washing on. It was an easy walk and at one point the pathway had been turned into a lovely grove of flowers by a thoughtful house owner. Very pretty. Another garden was full of fairy items.
The views from Govetts Leap were spectacular, beautiful cloud formation and with the Bridal Veil Falls really pumping.
The Govetts Leap track to the Bridal Veil Falls and beyond was closed for some major renovations. But I did walk down to a lookout. Unfortunately a couple of bushes blocked the view to the Falls.
Centennial Glen Reserve Walk
Stewart then suggested we go up to go the Centennial Glen Reserve on the southern side of Blackheath – over the railway line. We would walk along a track through open heath, then along the Walls Ledge that turns back to the bottom of the rock face – a favourite place for rock climbing – and then dip into the stunning gorges that make the track towards Porters Pass. A great walk.
To read about our experiences on this walk, click here. The post is too long to include in this main post of our Blackheath experience. Photos are here.
We had dinner that night with Stewart, Lucy (Olive’s mother) and Olive at the Station Bar in Katoomba. Unfortunately our taxi driver home was an anti-vaxer and only too happy to air his views. We responded in kind but it made for an unpleasant ride home. How he is allowed to drive a maxi-taxi is totally beyond me.
Day 3 – Wednesday 08 December
This was a miserable day weatherwise. We were fogged in all day – hardly seeing beyond 30m – and heavy rain and storms arrived making for a long afternoon. The camp site was saturated and very muddy. It was a stay in the van and read day.
Day 4 – Thursday 09 December – Grand Canyon Walk
It was a cold and uncertain morning, clear up until lunchtime, then the rain returned. It was 7c in the morning but the BOM said “feels like 1.7c. I reckon they left the minus sign off so as to not scare the tourists.
I had decided to walk the Grand Canyon in the morning. Kerry would stay at the van, trying to keep warm, as her sore hip makes walks like this impossible for her. I had done the walk before, many years ago, so we knew how steep the climb out is at the end of the canyon. I was looking forward to seeing how different the track might be after all rain we had been having for the past month or so.
Widely regarded as one of the most impressive walking tracks in the Blue Mountains – I say in Australia. The Grand Canyon Walk takes you through lush rainforest with several creek crossings, small waterfalls, high cliff walls and rock overhangs that together leaves me in awe.
To read about my experience of this amazing walk, click here. The post is too long to include in this main post of our Blackheath experience. Pictures are here.
After the steep climb out to Evans Lookout at the other end of the Grand Canyon track, I was delighted to have Kerry drive around to pick me up. We spent the rest of the day trying to dodge the rain.
Day 5 – Friday 10 December – Wolgan Valley
We woke to a cloudy and cold day but with a promise of better weather. We deserve it. Today we are going to the famous Wolgan Valley, to the town of Newnes. Kerry’s son Stewart had been telling us for ages to get ourselves out there and check out the best campground in NSW.
To read about our experience of this drive, click here. The post is too long to include in this main post of our Blackheath experience. Photos are here.
Day 6 – Saturday 11 December – Anvil Rock
A cold but bright morning, no rain. My morning walk took me through more of the back streets and parks of Blackheath town. It is a place with great charm coupled with some really interesting homes and buildings.
Later we drove up to Hat Hill Road to get out to Anvil Rock. It’s a fair way out and at the end the road turns into a gravel road. This is a bit rough but is short and suitable for 2WD cars. At the fork in the road towards the end, keep left to get to the Anvil Rock carpark. The right hand track goes to Perrys Lookdown.
From the carpark we first went to the Wind Eroded Cave. This is very close to the car park and is a simple walk. The Wind Eroded Cave is a fabulous place. It’s a massive rock overhang in the shape of a wave with beautiful patterns carved out of the sandstone by the wind.
From the car park the pathway to Anvil Rock is well set out and is only a couple of hundred meters. The track passes a small bench, perfectly positioned with a north-facing aspect overlooking the valley with fantastic views. The area is also covered in flowers, especially the flannel flowers.
Anvil Rock is so named because of the shape of the rock formation. With a bit of imagination, it does look a bit like an anvil. Maybe?
There is a set of rock stairs with metal handrails that lead to a large viewing platform, followed by a second set of stairs that lead to the very top of Anvil Rock. There is actually a real anvil installed on top of the rock, with a bunch of arrows pointing to other landmarks in this area of the Blue Mountains and beyond. I was surprised and delighted to be able to see so far – in fact you could see the skyline of Sydney itself…
The lookout is round-shaped, and quite literally offers 360 degree views that stretch as far as the eyes can see on a clear and sunny day. Without a doubt, Anvil Rock really is one of the best lookouts in the Blue Mountains – you can see how it all fits together. The lack of big tourist crowds coupled with the isolated atmosphere make the experience even better. We really loved it.
Day 7 – Sunday 12 December – Cliff Top Walk
A cold but bright morning, no rain. Stewart and Olive had stayed the night on our site so we had breakfast with them and played with Olive.
After they left I did the Cliff Top Walk – Govetts Leap to Evans Lookout. I walked down to the Heritage Centre but did not go in as I had forgotten a mask. From the Centre, I went down the Fairfax Heritage Track to Govetts Leap – 1.5km to the George Phillip Lookout which is close to Govetts. It’s an easy and wheel-chair friendly track to the dramatic cliffs awaiting you.
The path winds around a hanging swamp, before opening to a forest of peppermint and scribbly gums. Being there in December the best of the spring flowers were gone but there was plenty of the summer flowers.
The George Phillip Lookout provided great views of Grose Valley and Govetts Gorge. It’s interesting to see the pathways and trails below.
From Govetts Leap I took the obligatory photos, even though I had been there only a few days prior. But that day the weather had cleared and the views were very different. I walked around to see the Horseshoe Falls but found that the track was blocked. The signs at Govetts Leap implied that it was open.
The Cliff Top Walk is on a good track, and starts with a good climb. Naturally there were great views to my left. But often the tree cover blocked the clear views.
The highlight was at the Bridal Veil Falls – crossing over the stepping stones just upstream of where the creek plunges around 200m over the edge. A creek and small waterfall feed these Falls.
Just past the falls is Barrow Lookout with amazing views over the Falls. Lo and behold there in the distance is the Horseshoe falls – like a smaller twin of Bridal Veil Falls. Both Falls have a single drop to the rock base. Fantastic views from this lookout, including down to the Grose River on the valley floor.
It was interesting to see the river way down in the valley.
After that I came to Hayward Gully. This is a pocket of a swamp in a gully with a small stream reaching the edge of the cliff. There are stepping stones to cross the gully.
Finally I made my way to Evans Lookout and took a path to the left down to Valley Views Lookout – more superb views, especially back towards Govetts Leap. The main views from Evans Lookout are, as always, brilliant.
I walked from there back to the van park for a total distance of 15.5km. We relaxed for the rest of the day and fixed up a few things on the van.
Day 8 – Monday 13 December – Mount Wilson
Stewart had recommended the drive to Mt Wilson and then on to Mt Irvine. But before that I went on my morning walk around Blackheath. This unearthed some lovely buildings.
Then I popped in to look at the Campbell Rhododendron Gardens. It is a very pretty garden with a large pond at the central level. Shame the flowers are not out.
Then we made the short drive to Mt Victoria and across the Darling Causeway to the Bells Line of Road. The 1914 Victoria & Albert Hotel is a standout, but the rock formations along the drive area are stunning – reminding us of the nearby Lost City.
We turned east on Bells Line of Rd, and then soon turned off for Mt Wilson. Lovey drive along tree lined road, trying to see what must be some great homes hidden behind high hedges and walls.
Then we went out to Wynnes Lookout to get more fabulous views. We followed the sign but thought we had driven as far as we could go and walked down a hill. Then we saw we could have driven all the way.
Continuing the drive Kerry remembered a few of the gardens she had visited with her mother-in-law many years ago. The flowers, especially the masses of white flowers, was impressive.
We went out to see Du Faurs Rocks – and again we only drove halfway when we could have drive all the way. But the rocks are impressive with great views across the valley. To the left was a very colourful rock face.
There was a funny rock pagoda on the far side.
We continued our drive through Mt Wilson – it is all about the gardens, private gardens well known throughout Sydney. I remember quite well walking through Nooroo. From the gate though, it looks smaller than I recall.
At the large camping area for the Cathedral of Ferns we struggled to find the signs directing us to the ferns. We asked some people camping there and were soon pointed in the right direction. There were ferns everywhere. But first we came to the Giant Tree – and it indeed massive. It is still growing but struggling after being struck by lightning in 2008.
We walked on though a scattering of ferns but could not find anything that could be called a Cathedral of Ferns that Kerry remembers from her previous visits. We concluded that perhaps so many of the ferns were burnt in the bushfires and the mass of ferns had not recovered.
We had a picnic lunch at the camping area.
We went on to Mt Irvine but this was not so impressive as Mt Wilson. Then we got to the end of the road and retraced our drive.
Day 9 – Tuesday 13 December – Quick dash to Bridal Veil Falls
This is the day we are going to Mudgee, a short drive. But before we packed up I drove down to Govetts Leap to walk to Bridal Veil Falls and back so as to get some additional photos showing Horseshoe Falls. I had missed this on the Cliff Top Walk.
Govetts Leap was stunningly bathed in morning sunshine, I noticed as I parked and started my walk. It is not far to the falls and I quickly got the photos I wanted. Especially Horseshoe Falls in the distance.
Returning to the car, I had not realised how steep the walk from Bridal Veil Falls to Govetts Leap is – a steep and long haul. But it did not take me that long to get there.
To see general photos from this post, click here. Photos for specific areas are provided through the post.
To see videos from this post click here.