Blackall Range, Qld
We had been to the Maleny area so many years ago, while on a holiday on the Sunshine Coast. From which we had only one or two vague recollections. But we remember it as a stunning place – brilliant mountains and waterfalls, and lovely surrounding towns and villages. Needing a short break, we decided to visit the area and spend more time exploring it’s delights. What an amazing place it proved to be with its waterfalls, gorges, mountains and walks. And it is such a delightful area to simply drive through. A wonderful 4 days.
Getting There
We live in Kingscliff. We did this wonderful trip to the Blackall Range between the 14 to 18 September 2022. Note that on the 17 September we went to the Glass House Mountains – our post for that visit can be read here.
We had expected to be basing ourselves in Maleny, but the only caravan park is the Showgrounds. And you can only stay there for 3 nights. So we booked a spot in Landsborough, only 15 km south of Maleny
Kingscliff to Landsborough 192 km.
Kerry’s comments in Fuchsia
History
The Butchulla First Nations people are the traditional owners of K’gari (Fraser Island and the nearby mainland). For more than 5,000 years, perhaps as many as 50,000 years, Butchulla people lived in harmony with the seasons and the land and sea, maintaining a balance between spiritual, social and family connections.
To read about the history of this area – First Nations and British settlement – click here
Day 1 – Wed 14 Sept – To Landsborough
We left Kingscliff at about 9.30, and were quickly on the M1 heading north. To our great and pleasant surprise the delays we expected from the roadworks on the southern sections of the M1 just north of the Airport, did not eventuate – the works were completed and the new M1 was open for business. It was motorway driving all the way to our turnoff to The Glasshouse Mountains well north of Brisbane.
We called into the Visitors information centre at The Glasshouse Mountains (township) and received a variety of maps and information brochures to help us set an itinerary for the next 4 days. Lovely country. And the elderly couple in the Visitors Centre were incredibly helpful.
It is a short drive to Landsborough and we were quickly checked in. It is an interesting layout with sites scattered between the hills. It’s very rustic. But the facilities are all good, if a tad dated. We have a great van site – tucked away in a quiet corner with views across the farm dam on the property next door, and on a full concrete slab. Could be one of the best site location we have enjoyed. We had no problems reversing in. (Reversing in and perfect first time too)
We had missed lunch so I drove into town to get a couple of sausage rolls. They proved to be about the worst we have every tasted. They were from the cafe near IAG, not the bakery near the pub, which we saw later. After settling in we walked into town – quite a busy place actually and naturally there is a large pub. It is now a satellite town for Brisbane and as we watched from the pub opposite the railway station the afternoon trains and connecting buses start rolling in. It got even busier.
There is an information board at the pub telling the history of the Mellum Club Hotel, built in 1888. Later the pub had to be moved. It was moved on skids using winches. It took 2 weeks to make the move because it was done at night and opened for business by day. The story goes that not one bottle fell off shelves in the process. Unfortunately we forgot to go and have a look at the pub.
Day 2 – Thu 15 Sept – Around Maleny
Today we were going to do a few things around Maleny. Some 80km from Brisbane, the town of about 3,440 people (2011) has emerged as something of an ‘arts and crafts’ centre, benefiting from hinterland tourism.
It was a sunny day. We started with Gardeners Falls. We had read that this was very popular but only had a small carpark – get there early. It was only about 12-13kms from our van park, and we left at 8:30. It is a lovely drive and we got to see some of the plugs of the Glass house Mountains as we climbed the steep hills. We stopped at the lookout near the top of the steep climb – great views.
We were at the car park in no time and we had certainly beaten the crowds – there was only 1 car there. The car park is on the banks of the Obi Obi Creek, which was flowing strongly. There were a number of waterholes right there, which we explored – lovely place.
It is a short, level walk downstream to Gardners Falls, passing many waterholes on the way – most are swimmable. We passed a woman who was leaving the waterholes after an early morning swim – “It’s the perfect temperature,” she said, but it felt very cool to us.
The mini rapids and rock pools culminate in the main falls at the end of the trail. In the pool below the falls, a rope swing is ready and waiting. Though not particularly high, the Falls are winners for their picturesque setting – and their accessibility. The trees surrounding us were pretty impressive too.
From there we went to Mary Cairncross Scenic Reserve – over 55 hectares of subtropical rainforest overlooking the Glass House Mountains. The name Mary Cairncross is a tribute to the memory of Mary Thynne, (nee Cairncross). Born in 1848, Mary was a passionate environmentalist from an early age. She was involved in campaigns to prevent the felling of forests on St Helena Island in Moreton Bay. She married Irish-born Andrew Thynne in 1869, who purchased the Maleny land where the reserve is situated in 1902.
In October 1941, 100 acres was transferred through a Deed of Trust to the then Landsborough Shire Council by Mary’s three daughters Elizabeth, Mabel and Mary Thynne.
In October 1959 the Rotary Club, in consultation with Landsborough Shire Council and Elizabeth Thynne, embarked on their first project: to create and maintain the 100 acre rainforest reserve on Mountain View Road. Members of the Rotary Club invested many thousands of hours, transforming the reserve to what we see today. In December 1966, Elizabeth “Bessie” Thynne donated a further five acres to the Landsborough Shire Council.
There were lots of cars at the entrance to the reserve – a very busy place. We crossed the road for some excellent pictures of the Glasshouse Mountains, before entering the Reserve. This is such a stunning place – love it.
Entry is via a gold coin donation, which can be made via a credit card – just as well as we had no coins. We did the popular 1.7km Rainforest Loop – essentially a loop right around the Reserve. It is a beautiful walk with so many different trees and Picabeen plams – which grow very tall. Kerry had bought a tree identification app which worked really well. Many pants have identification labels, but not all.
We really enjoyed the walk over the many boardwalks and viewing platforms. For much of it we were alone so could pause and watch the pademelons and birds in perfect peace. We saw 10 Pademelons and were amused by the striking call of the catbird. For those who haven’t seen a pademelon, they’re pretty cute. Similar to a wallaby, but a bit squatter, and they don’t eat grass, they eat forest floor leaves. My favourite marsupial.
Just near the turnoff to the Reserve, we saw a very old building that must once have been a hotel, now a restaurant.
We drove on to Maleny and spent some time walking through the town. It really is an arts and craft place, also with so many accomodation and restaurant options. It was remarkably busy. But it did not have any really striking heritage buildings. We walked through the town, then did a short walk along the river, but were not impressed with the large number of bats hanging in the trees so retreated.
Day 3 – Fri 16 Sept – Montville, Flaxton & Mapleton
It was an overcast day with very strong winds in the early morning. Fortunately, the winds eased through the day but the cloud cover remained.
We decided to go to the furtherest point of interest for the day first, and then work our way back. We drove straight to Mapleton. It is a lovely drive with a few lookouts to showcase these stunning hilly landscapes.
First up was the Linda Garrett Reserve just out of town. This is a short walk through Eucalypt forests and palm groves. It led us to a small meadow where the track was virtually covered with long grasses. It looked like perfect snake country – we had seen warning signs to beware of snakes as the weather heats up. As the walk so far had not really been that interesting, we decided to return to the car.
Our second stop was not far away – the famous Mapleton Falls in the Mapleton National Park. Next to the carpark, a lookout provides spectacular views over the Obi Obi valley and the rainforest canopy below. But is hard to get a picture of the falls from here – you are above it looking down. We would love to get a proper view of the Falls
We then walked the Wompoo Circuit, a walk of 1.3km return. It’s about 120m to the start of the circuit, walking through the forests, and you go over a broad-walk to cross a swampy area with lots of very tall Picabeen palm trees. Its amazing country.
The Circuit track can be done either way – we did not see any advantage of going either clockwise or atto-clockwise. The Circuit winds through rainforest and eucalypt forest on a very good track. Some parts were on a timber walkway. There are some massive trees and also many with a strangler fig slowly squeezing them to death. Some of the patterns in the bark were truly amazing.
The Peregrine Lookout, a short deviation off the Circuit, provides glimpses of Mapleton Falls and expansive views of the Obi Obi Valley.
We next drove back to Mapleton, and walked through the town.
Today Mapleton is a small but busy town providing great views towards the coast. It had a large recreation lake with a good walkway through the park. The Mapleton Tavern is a large and impressive structure. But there are no real heritage buildings that are found in so many country towns.
We drove south to Flaxton but did not see a village area. It, and its surrounds, is a mecca for all sorts of accomodation taking advantage of its hilly terrain. The main attraction is the magnificent Kondalilla Falls. During the summer wet season, Kondalilla presents one of Blackall Range’s most spectacular waterfalls. From the top of Kondalilla Falls, Skene Creek drops 90m into the lush rainforest valley below. Walking tracks lead to features including rock pools, lookouts and waterfalls.
Our aim was to do the Picnic Creek Circuit of 1.7km, ending up at the Pools. We were unsure about continuing on and doing the Kondalilla Falls Circuit — 4.7km , including a steep 300 stairs. We had heard it required some rugged climbing – it had a reputation. We agreed to see how we felt when we got to the Pool at the top of the Falls. It was also very busy – lots of people on the track.
The first part of the trail is shared by both circuits. This easy walk crosses Picnic Creek (400m from the car park), where there is a lovely small waterfall discharging to a rock pool. Very pretty.
We then passed through tall eucalypt forests with patches of wet sclerophyll forest—a mix of eucalypt and rainforest species. The Obi Valley lookout provided great views down the Skene Creek valley.
About halfway along the walk the track started to descend – an increasing number of switchbacks with steps at each end. It was getting steeper all the time with gal steel safety rails in place. Lovely tree ferns
We came to one corner which had a gate in the fence, through which, we guessed, gave access to the Kondalilla Circuit. The track looked steep. We walked on to the nearby rock pools at the top of the falls – the end of the Picnic Creek Circuit.
What a gorgeous place – a not insignificant waterfall discharging into the rock pool, which in turn drains to the Falls proper. In warmer times we guess there would be people swimming. Thankfully we shared the pool with only another couple. It would be a delightful spot for a swim in summer – a long steep walk out though.
That couple had done the Kondalilla Circuit before and had found it difficult but far from impossible. So I thought I would do the Circuit but Kerry would completed the Picnic Creek Circuit – essentially walking back the trail to the car park. We walked back to the gate and went our separate ways. Because of my hip, there was no way I could take that steep path, even if we had remembered to take our poles with us.
The track down was steep and the steps quite rugged in places. I was hoping that I did not have to get back up that part of the track. There were also quite a few people doing the circuit, so a lot of squeezing past each other.
About half way down I got to a lookout providing great views of Kondalilla Falls. From the top, the rock pools, you have no idea of how big the Falls are – plunging 90m into the valley.
The rest of the track down was not so bad, and just before I got to the creek I got a view of the pool with the Falls going strong. Absolutely stunning.
It is even better at the base of the Falls. There the falls split into two, pouring water into two pools.
I clamoured over some large rocks and got over to the upper pool, where a couple of blokes were taking in the view as they had lunch. Back at the lower pool, a couple had rock hopped and were in the lower pool and climbing the lower falls, ruining my photo opportunity.
Just below the rock pools the track crossed the Creek and started the climb up the other side of the Falls. I found climbing out on that side to be much easier than if I had to go back up the track I had come down.
I came to a massive tree being taken over by a strangler fig – one of so many. Nature in the raw.
Then I came to the beautiful pools at the top of the Falls, where Kerry and I had gotten to. I walked back from there to the car park.
It turned out a great walk for me and the big lesson I got was to go around the Circuit anti-clockwise. Go through the gate and down on the right hand side as you look down the valley, so as to be going down by far the hardest part of the Circuit. The coming up the other side is much easier.
We stopped in to Montville on the way through, but it was unpleasantly packed. We stopped in the pub for lunch… good food.
Day 4 – Sun 18 Sept – Maleny & Kenilworth
Note that on the 17 September we went to the Glass House Mountains – our post for that visit can be read here.
It was a great day weather-wise – blue skies, warm but too hot. We were back on the road to Maleny by about 9:00 heading for the Maleny Botanic Gardens. We were not told about this place at the Maleny Tourist Information, but we found it on the net. On the way, as we skirted Maleny we called in at McCarthy’s Lookout. Great shots of the Glass House Mountains.
What a great find it was. The gardens are a unique, privately owned garden, consisting of nearly 7.3Ha of gardens, set on a 44.5Ha property. The gardens have a backdrop of the Glass House Mountains and are surrounded by magnificent rainforests.
Over 6km of walking paths meander gardens, with plants ranging from roses, azaleas, annuals, and orchids, to some of the rarest cycads in the world. All of which are complemented by numerous lakes and waterfalls. To read more about the gardens and attached Bird World click here
We decided to just do the garden walk, skipping the bird tour. It’s quite expensive and we also thought we would not have the time. Our entry (2 seniors) was $15 each.
The first things we noticed was the brilliant views back to the Glass House Mountains. Just near the entry is the Feathered Friends section with a few birds that you can have your photograph taken. These are truly beautiful birds many from other countries. The colours! But I did not chance having one on my shoulder.
They are impressive Gardens and we zig-zagged across to the various sections – the Gardens are on sloped lands. We probably saw half the gardens in our hour or so there. We did not go to the lower gardens as the tracks are very steep. You can hire a golf buggy. A selection of photos from the walk follow.
We next drove to Witta, looking for the Berganns Walk – an original footpath build by the first settlers as a track to school. But we could not find it. We found Berganns Rd, but nothing on the Walk.
From there we drove to Kenilworth – about 35km. It was nice countryside and an enjoyably drive, despite a section of fairly rough surface. There is little at Canondale. We did want to do the Fig Tree Walk near Kenilworth but could not find any signs for that.
At one point we turned off the road onto a side road to have a look at the Mary River.
Kenilworth was packed – it was their market and rodeo weekend. The Showgrounds was packed with caravans and campers, and the streets were full of people. There were long queues out of some of the eateries. But it is a nice town and we spent an hour or so wandering around. Some photos follow.There looked to be some really interesting shops here, but way too crowded.
From Kenilworth we drove to Mapleton – a spectacular drive through some very pretty farmlands.
For the last sectioning Mapleton the road splits into 2 one-way sections – narrow and windy, up the hill to the Range. An enjoyable drive.
We had planned to stop and look around Montville – we only had a cursory look on the last drive through. But it was absolutely mobbed, with no sign of a car park anywhere. It was a Sunday in the school holidays. So we continued the drive back to the van.
To see the photos from this post, click here
To see the video from this post, click here